Devil's in the details with 'party eggs'

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Deviled eggs. (TRIBUNE MEDIA MCT)

When I think about summer, I think about deviled eggs. Just about every activity -- from camping and cookouts to beach vacations and Canada Day gatherings -- can be enhanced by a plate of them.

It's really just a matter of swapping the garnish to fit the activity or mood.

If I am feeling down-homey, I add a little pimento cheese to my basic deviled egg mixture. If I want to spice it up, I add puréed chipotle and substitute lime for the lemon. For the right occasion I'll even get a little fancy and top deviled eggs with caviar.

Still, no matter how good embellished deviled eggs are, my favourite remains what I call "straight-up deviled eggs." They are as advertised -- classic and simple. You can use them as a base for any and all flavour mix-ins, or serve them like I do, straight up, simple and sublime.

One of the beauties of deviled eggs is how well they travel. That's why I call them party eggs. But there are a few tricks.

First, you have to cook the eggs properly to guarantee a yellow, creamy well-cooked egg. Don't buy pre-cooked hard-boiled eggs.

I like to make the deviled mixture right away. This helps the flavours of the ingredients fully meld with the yolk. The eggs taste better after the mixture has had a chance to sit so the flavours can marry. For that reason, I always make my deviled eggs the day before and refrigerate the mixture in a closed pastry bag. I pipe (squirt) the filling into the whites just before serving or leaving the house. A light hand with the garnish, then you are done.

Straight-Up Deviled Eggs

1 dozen large eggs

80 ml (1/3 cup) mayonnaise (I prefer Hellmann's)

60 ml (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened

60 ml (1/4 cup) strong Dijon mustard

Zest of 1/2 lemon

5 ml (1 tsp) fresh lemon juice

Pinch garlic powder

2 to 4 shakes hot sauce

Salt

Smoked paprika or minced fresh chives

Start to finish: 30 minutes (plus overnight chilling). Makes 24 halves

Fill a large bowl with cold water.

Place the eggs in a large saucepan or stockpot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, cover, then turn off the heat. Let the eggs sit for 15 minutes. Drain the eggs, then transfer them to the bowl of cold water. Let them sit for about 10 minutes, or until cool to the touch.

Carefully peel the eggs, keeping the whites intact. Cut in half across the middle or lengthwise, depending on your desired final presentation. Use your fingers or a small spoon to gently scoop out the yolks into a medium bowl. Set the whites aside on a platter or deviled egg plate, then cover and refrigerate.

Use a fork to mash the yolks until all large pieces are broken up and smooth. Add the mayonnaise, butter, mustard, lemon zest and juice, garlic powder and hot sauce. Stir well. Taste and season with salt. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag or plastic zip-close bag and refrigerate overnight.

Just before serving or leaving for a summer event, snip off the tip of the piping bag (or one of the bottom corners of a zip-close bag) and squeeze the deviled egg mixture into the egg whites. Alternatively, you can use a small spoon to fill the egg white "boats" with the yolk mixture, but the presentation is less attractive.

Sprinkle the eggs with smoked paprika for classic eggs, or chives for a fancier version. Serve chilled.

Nutrition information per half egg (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 70 calories; 45 calories from fat (64 per cent of total calories); 5 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 95 mg cholesterol; 2 g carbohydrate; 3 g protein; 0 g fiber; 80 mg sodium.

-- The Associated Press

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition May 26, 2012 E4