Gluten-free doesn't mean bad taste

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Gluten-free banana chocolate chip muffins and gluten-free lemon shortbread tarts. (JOHN WOODS/WINNIPEG FREE PRESS) Photo Store

MAY is Celiac Awareness Month, which highlights the autoimmune condition in which gluten causes damage to the digestive system. Gluten occurs when wheat and related flours mix with liquid, and it makes pizza dough stretchy, ensures cookies keep their shape and helps cake batter rise. It is also used as a thickener and stabilizer in many condiments and sauces. People living with celiac disease must avoid most commercial breads, crackers, cookies and pastas, as well as many prepared and canned products. Gluten-free cooking and baking involves the use of wheat flour alternatives like rice flour, tapioca or corn starch, as well as xanthan or guar gum to bind batters together.

While being gluten-free clearly means planning ahead, shopping at specialty and health food stores, and loads of scratch baking, it doesn't have to mean the end of good food. Bonnie Pirch, co-editor of the Celi-Yak Newsletter, wrote in on behalf of the Canadian Celiac Association, Manitoba Branch, with a recipe for gluten-free lemon tarts from her friend Heather Yeo. Jodi Lee offers a recipe for gluten-free banana chocolate chip muffins. A human ecologist and food blogger who lives with celiac disease, Jodi also runs Gluten Free Wellness (www.glutenfreewinnipeg.com), which helps people living with celiac disease, gluten intolerance and wheat allergies.

This week, Donna Brausen is looking for a recipe for kiwi lime marmalade, while Doreen Sawatzky would like a recipe for the beef and barley soup once served at Grapes. And Barb Gmitrowski often makes banana and Nutella crepes and loves the flavours so much she wonders if readers have other recipes that use the banana and Nutella combo. If you can help with a recipe request, have your own request, or a favourite recipe you'd like to share, send an email to recipeswap@freepress.mb.ca, fax it to 697-7412, or write to Recipe Swap, c/o Alison Gillmor, Winnipeg Free Press, 1355 Mountain Ave., Winnipeg, MB, R2X 3B6. Please include your first and last name, address and telephone number.

Gluten-free lemon shortbread tarts

Shortbread pastry:

228 g (1 cup) butter, softened

125 ml (1/2 cup) icing sugar

375 ml (1 1/2 cups) gluten-free flour mix (a blend of alternative flours such as rice flour, potato starch and tapioca flour)

2 ml (1/2 tsp) xanthan gum

15 ml (1 tbsp) cornstarch

Lemon curd:

125 ml (1/2 cup) lemon juice

15 ml (1 tbsp) grated lemon rind

250 ml (1 cup) white sugar

3 eggs, well beaten

114g (1/2 cup) butter

Preheat oven to 160C (325F). To make pastry, cream butter and icing sugar in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together gluten-free flour mix, xanthan gum and cornstarch. Add to butter mixture and stir to combine. Pat into tiny tart shells or mini-muffin pans, forming thin shells. Prick the bottoms with a fork. Bake for about 15-20 minutes, until golden brown, taking the tarts out halfway through the baking time to prick again and to gently push back puffy areas. Cool and set aside.

To make lemon curd, place lemon juice and rind in a double-boiler or heavy pot. Stir in sugar, eggs and butter and whisk well over medium-low heat until thickened and clear yellow, about 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Fill tart shells. Makes about 32 small tarts. (Curd will keep covered in the fridge for four days.)

Tester's notes: If you are baking for gluten-free friends or family, this shortbread pastry is easy, light and flaky. If staying gluten-free isn't an issue, just enjoy this outstanding lemon curd, which is a perfect meeting of rich and tart. I strained my lemon curd through a fine-mesh sieve: No matter how low the heat and how careful the stirring, I usually end up with some bits of cooked egg. And watch the tart shells when baking. Mine were golden-brown before the 15-minute mark.

Gluten-free banana chocolate chip muffins

250 ml (1 cup) mashed ripe bananas (about 1 1/2 large or 2 medium)

60 ml (1/4 cup) light olive oil

250 ml (1 cup) golden brown sugar

10 ml (2 tsp) vanilla

2 eggs

1 ml (1/4 tsp) mild rice vinegar

250 ml (1 cup) sorghum or brown rice flour

125 ml (1/2 cup) potato starch (not potato flour)

5 ml (1 tsp) baking soda

5 ml (1 tsp) baking powder

1 ml (1/4 tsp) salt

7 ml (1 1/2 tsp) xanthan gum

5 ml (1 tsp) cinnamon

1 ml (1/4 tsp) nutmeg

125 ml (1/2 cup) chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 190C (375F). Lightly grease a regular muffin pan. In a large bowl, combine bananas, olive oil, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs and vinegar. In another medium bowl, whisk together sorghum or rice flour, potato starch, baking soda, baking powder, salt, xanthan gum and spices. Stir into banana mixture. Add chocolate chips. Spoon into prepared muffins cups so that cups are about 3/4 full and bake for about 18-22 minutes. Makes 12 regular muffins.

Tester's notes: I got a good result with these lunchbox-friendly muffins. They rose nicely, held together well, and had great flavour.

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition May 23, 2012 D5