Café de Paris butter
The famed Café de Paris in Geneva gave the culinary world this complex but delicious butter. Created by Freddy Dumont in 1941, specifically to go with the sirloin steak served at the restaurant, it was an instant success. So much so that it was almost impossible to get into the restaurant for years. The original recipe is probably still a secret today, and only a few restaurants worldwide are reputed to serve the original.
A chef friend gave me the recipe below, which was used during his time at the Savoy Hotel in London. It may look complicated with many ingredients, but is certainly worth the effort. The taste will keep your guest asking how you made it.
While best over steak, I have used it with great success on chicken or even tossed in a stir fry.
500 g (2 cups) softened unsalted butter
30 g (1 oz) tomato sauce
15 ml (1 tbsp) Dijon mustard
15 ml (1 tbsp) washed baby capers
3 shallots, coarsely chopped
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, picked and roughly chopped
1 bunch chives coarsely chopped
5 ml (1 tsp) chopped dill sprigs
3 ml (1/2 tsp) marjoram, dried
pinch dried rosemary, chopped
1 clove garlic
4 anchovy fillets
15 ml (1 tbsp) brandy
15 ml (1 tbsp) Madeira or dessert wine
3 ml (1/2 tsp) Worcestershire sauce
3 ml (1/2 tsp) sweet paprika
3 ml (1/2 tsp) mild curry powder
3 ml (1/2 tsp) crushed black peppercorns
zest of 1/2 lemon
zest of 1/2 orange
juice of 1 lemon
5 ml (1 tsp) sea salt
Remove butter from refrigerator 30 minutes before using. Beat butter until very soft and aerated. The butter will become almost white at this stage. Combine all remaining ingredients, except the butter, in food processor and process until well pureed. Fold puree into the beaten butter. Form the butter into a log on plastic wrap or baking paper, shape and freeze until required. To serve, grill or barbecue rump steak until cooked as desired; stand and covered 5 minutes to rest. Cut 1 cm slices off butter logs and place on cooked steak. Serve immediately.