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LA crème de la crème

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RUTH BONNEVILLE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
Caf�� de Paris butter lifts a steak to a whole new level of flavour.

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RUTH BONNEVILLE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Caf�� de Paris butter lifts a steak to a whole new level of flavour.

Café de Paris butter

The famed Café de Paris in Geneva gave the culinary world this complex but delicious butter. Created by Freddy Dumont in 1941, specifically to go with the sirloin steak served at the restaurant, it was an instant success. So much so that it was almost impossible to get into the restaurant for years. The original recipe is probably still a secret today, and only a few restaurants worldwide are reputed to serve the original.

A chef friend gave me the recipe below, which was used during his time at the Savoy Hotel in London. It may look complicated with many ingredients, but is certainly worth the effort. The taste will keep your guest asking how you made it.

While best over steak, I have used it with great success on chicken or even tossed in a stir fry.

500 g (2 cups) softened unsalted butter

30 g (1 oz) tomato sauce

15 ml (1 tbsp) Dijon mustard

15 ml (1 tbsp) washed baby capers

3 shallots, coarsely chopped

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, picked and roughly chopped

1 bunch chives coarsely chopped

5 ml (1 tsp) chopped dill sprigs

3 ml (1/2 tsp) marjoram, dried

pinch dried rosemary, chopped

1 clove garlic

4 anchovy fillets

15 ml (1 tbsp) brandy

15 ml (1 tbsp) Madeira or dessert wine

3 ml (1/2 tsp) Worcestershire sauce

3 ml (1/2 tsp) sweet paprika

3 ml (1/2 tsp) mild curry powder

3 ml (1/2 tsp) crushed black peppercorns

zest of 1/2 lemon

zest of 1/2 orange

juice of 1 lemon

5 ml (1 tsp) sea salt

 

Remove butter from refrigerator 30 minutes before using. Beat butter until very soft and aerated. The butter will become almost white at this stage. Combine all remaining ingredients, except the butter, in food processor and process until well pureed. Fold puree into the beaten butter. Form the butter into a log on plastic wrap or baking paper, shape and freeze until required. To serve, grill or barbecue rump steak until cooked as desired; stand and covered 5 minutes to rest. Cut 1 cm slices off butter logs and place on cooked steak. Serve immediately.

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition September 21, 2013 D14

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Updated on Saturday, September 21, 2013 at 7:01 AM CDT: Corrects accented characters

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