New Sushi cafe taps Wolseley market

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Chef Yiho Park with Yaki Udon (from left), Red Dragon Roll and shrimp tempura. (PHIL.HOSSACK@FREEPRESS.MB.CA)

Dining Out

Yiho Sushi Cafe

126 Sherbrook, 783-4077

Unlicensed

Wheelchair access

4 stars out of 5

There's certainly no shortage of sushi sellers in the city; some areas are crawling with them -- often one to a block, two in some cases (think Corydon, for instance). Surprisingly, though, they took their time about arriving in Wolseley, an untapped market that would seem to be their natural habitat. But finally there's Yiho, the first and only purveyor of sushi for at least a mile in any direction.

From outside it's just a nice little two-storey house. Within, not a lot has changed since the days when it housed an Italian-oriented coffee house.

There are still antique-style Roman lettering on the walls and -- here and there -- pediments of classic Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns. One glaringly less-than-antique intrusion is the cooler of soft drinks in one corner.

The only indication that lattes are no longer a house specialty is the series of fabric squares with white-on-black Japanese motifs that circle a counter in middle of the room. And no, that counter isn't a sushi bar -- there isn't one, although, with a few exceptions (about which more later)Yiho is primarily about sushi.

Nigiri are the simplest forms of sushi -- balls of rice topped simply by a slice, or dice, of fish or other seafood, and priced here from $3.49 to $4.99 for two pieces. The rice has varied, even within the same meal -- occasionally dry and unseasoned, but for the most part moist and flavourful, with pleasant traces of sugar and rice vinegar.

The fish toppings were sliced thin but all were good, most notably the deep red aka maguro tuna, the wild salmon and the sleek white butterfish. If you just want fish without the rice, sashimi are satisfying alternatives, with most at $9.99 to $14.99 for six pieces, or a 10- to 12-piece assortment for $15.99.

The choice of nigiri sushi is limited compared to the much larger list of rolls. Most of the smaller rolls cost $2.99 to $8.99, among them a delicious Golden Roll, which combines tuna and avocado, topped by the crunch of tempura crumbs. I didn't try the $3.99 California roll, which is based on imitation crab (which I dislike) with avocado, cucumber, mayo and a sprinkling of sesame seeds. I opted instead to pay $2 more for a similar roll that is made with real crabmeat instead of that overly sweet imitation. And what a difference!

The larger, more elaborate house special rolls range from $9.99 to $11.99. Notable among them, the Red Dragon Roll, a colourful combo of tempura shrimp and cucumber, layered with salmon sashimi and served with a light but chili-spiked dipping sauce. There's also a decent selection of vegetarian rolls that includes -- appropriately enough -- the Wolseley, composed of avocado, cucumber, shiitakis and sweet bean curd. One added plus: mayonnaise is used with restraint in all the sushi. One demerit: the soy sauce in the table bottles is too dark and heavy.

They don't do much cooking here -- no hot entrees, no tatakis, no teriyakis, no tonkatsu. There are noodles though, both soba or (our choice) stir-fried yaki udon -- comfortingly thick, slightly chewy and fabulously flavourful. And although available with veggies only, one of the highlights here, even for this committed carnivore.

Another standout was shrimp tempura, made with particularly tasty shrimp that were cut thicker than the sometimes stingy slices I've been getting lately, and coated in a light, lacy and completely greaseless batter. Even the dipping sauce -- lightened by a splash of mirin -- was better than most (seven pieces for $9.99).

There are some good cold appetizers as well, among them tuna gommae spinach salad in a sesame dressing ($6.99); tako kimchi -- marinated sliced octopus with kimchi ($6.99), and the refreshing sunomono salad of translucent vermicelli with cucumber slices and a choice of shrimp, crab or (our choice) nicely chewy strips of octopus in a delicate rice vinegar based dressing ($3.99). As well as the regular menu, lunch combo specials are available from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. ($8.99 to $12.99).

Like so many other local sushi providers Yiho's owners appear to be Korean, something I realized when our server had trouble understanding me when I kept pronouncing gyoza very carefully. But when I switched to mandoo (the Korean equivalent) his eyes lit up, and communication was finally achieved, at least on that point.

Unfortunately the kitchen takes the easy way, and gets pre-prepared gyoza from elsewhere, and then compounds the sin by deep frying the dumplings, instead of pan-frying them (four pieces for $3.99). Since I've yet to find any commercially-prepared gyoza that I like, I saw no reason to waste the calories, and ordered the little potato croquettes instead -- exquisitely crunchy with panko crumbs on the outside and a light, creamy mash within, so insidiously good it took will power not to ask for another order (four pieces for $3.99).

The dishes are described reasonably well on the menu, but the problems with communication might be partially eased if they were numbered as well. Apart from those problems, the service was warm, diligent and utterly charming.

marion.warhaft@freepress.mb.ca

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition September 24, 2010 D5