PERFECT PAIR

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wine and cheese. (CP)

Wine and cheese -- it's a pairing so long-lived and loved that, as a wine columnist, I feel as if I've overlooked it for some time. So when I was pondering what to write about for this week's column, it turned out the answer was literally right in front of my face -- I was sitting there eating cheese and drinking wine.

I'd never insist readers drink certain wines with particular cheeses -- after all, there's nothing as enjoyable as discovering exciting new combinations. The only rule about wine and food is that there are no rules, right? Having said that, I definitely think there's room for some common-sense guidance.

Generally speaking, a good place to start when pairing wine and cheese is to match based on country/region of origin. A tapas spread with pita, olives and feta, for example, will do well with a Greek white wine that delivers floral, pear and spice notes. Both wine and cheese (and olives, for that matter) bring a hint of that briny, salty Mediterranean sea air -- as Martha Stewart says, it's a good thing. Similarly, it's tough to find a wine that pairs better with a hard, salty Parmigiano Reggiano than a tangy Italian red (Primitivo, Valpolicella, Chianti).

When pairing food and wine, texture and acidity are nearly as important as flavour. A splash of acidity in a wine helps cut through creamier cheeses. White wines tend to do better with creamier cheeses, while firmer cheeses often need something with a bit more grip on the palate, which a red wine will often provide.

Not coincidentally, many milder cheeses are also some of the creamiest. Mozzarella, havarti, brie and the like are soft in texture while bringing more subtle, mild flavours. As such, lighter whites like Pinot Grigio, dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc are often good options.

Stronger cheeses, on the other hand, are often firmer in texture; these bolder cheeses need bolder wines, and often work well with weightier reds. Try a smoky or spicy cheese with South African Pinotage, Rh¥ne Valley blend or Chilean Carmenère. When I thought of this column, I was nibbling on some Bothwell jalapeno Monterey Jack and drinking a peppery Syrah. Break out a nice Cabernet Sauvignon for some old cheddar, or try a red Zinfandel with Gruyère.

Once you start getting into the stinkier cheeses, it's time to start thinking about switching to a dessert or fortified wine. Port and blue cheese is a classic combo -- the rich sweetness of port works wonders with the salty, savoury notes of a runny blue, a Stilton or a Roquefort. Add some dried fruit and nuts (or substitute port with sherry or Madeira) and you're laughing.

I realize none of this does you much good if you're having people over and want to serve a cross-section of cheeses and other snack-style eats. For these types of occasions, a Merlot is a good choice for a red, while an unoaked Chardonnay will do the trick for a white. Both types of wines bring nice ripe fruit without overpowering oak (or tannin, in the case of the Merlot), and should please most palates.

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OBIKWA 2011

SAUVIGNON BLANC

(Western Cape, South Africa -- $8.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Pale straw in colour, the Obikwa shows lime, grapefruit, herbal and mineral notes on the nose. Crisp and light-bodied, there's a solid core of tart grapefruit on the palate, fleshed out by green apple, gooseberry and lemon-lime flavours. There's also medium acidity on this lighter wine, meaning it'll fare well with dill havarti, milder cheddar and mozzarella. A good value. 86/100

JACKSON TRIGGS 2010 SILVER SERIES VIOGNIER

(Okanagan Valley, B.C. -- $15.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Mineral, peach, spice, floral and apricot aromas are pretty textbook Viognier here, but there's also a hint of pear on the nose of this white as well. It's a medium-bodied, viscous white, with ripe stone fruit, tangy lemon, mango and light spice notes on the palate. Try with creamier, milder cheese like chèvre (goat's milk cheese), brie, or havarti. 88/100

DONNAFUGATA

2009 SEDÄRA

(Sicilia, Italy -- around $19, private wine stores)

A red blend of Nero D'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and other red grapes, this Sicilian red brings blackberry, leather, earth, raspberry and plum aromas. The dark berry notes are up front on the medium-plus-bodied palate, with espresso, plum and dark chocolate notes wrapped in light tannin and with decent acidity. Try with Grana Padano, provolone or pecorino. I picked this wine up at La Boutique Del Vino, which also has a great selection of cheeses. 87/100

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition March 12, 2012 E4