Winnipeg Free Press - PRINT EDITION

Quality quaffs

Festival offers up wines that perform beyond expectations

By the time you read this column, the Winnipeg Wine Festival will almost be over. At the time I'm writing it, however, it's just getting underway, and I've got hundreds of wines in my very near future.

With so many tastings looming, I thought I'd feature some of the best wines I tasted over the first couple of days of the festival. The following wines are among the best in terms of quality-to-price ratio -- great bangs for your buck. Most are under $30 and performed far beyond their price tag.

If you find any new favourites at any of the Winnipeg Wine Festival events, by all means let me know. My favourite aspect of this festival is trying the wines that are new to our market or that are being considered for listing at Liquor Marts.

Our regularly scheduled programming will return next week.

PS: A little bird told me it's likely that New Zealand and Argentina will split the theme regions for next year's Winnipeg Wine Festival. But you didn't hear it from me.

uncorked@mts.net twitter.com/bensigurdson

KIM CRAWFORD 2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC

(Marlborough, New Zealand -- $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This highly lauded New Zealand white does well in finding a balance between sweeter honey and peach aromas and tart lemon and herbal notes. It's a lean, crisp white, with lemon-lime, grapefruit and green apple flavours, and subtle grassy and mineral notes. While many Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs get too weedy and bell pepper-ish, the Kim Crawford brings intense but balanced flavours. 90/100

CAVE SPRING 2009 ESTATE BOTTLED RIESLING

(Beamsville Bench, Ont. -- $22.03, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This was the first Canadian wine I tried the week of the festival -- what a way to start. Perfume, red apple, peach and lemon drop notes on the nose are textbook New World Riesling. It's an off-dry white, with incredibly intense peach, fresh lemon and crisp apple notes on the light-bodied but fairly viscous palate. Try this with medium curries, salmon, sushi or lighter cheeses. 90/100

MITCHELL 2007 GSM

(Clare Valley, Australia -- $22.12, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Usually "GSM" stands for Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, the blend of grapes in the bottle, but in the case of the Mitchell, the "S" actually stands for Sangiovese. As a result, the big cherry notes are replaced by raspberry, licorice, spice and vanilla flavours, with some light tannin that's softened with age. A very stylish red. 90/100

WOLF BLASS 2009 GREY LABEL SHIRAZ CABERNET

(Robe Mount Benson, Australia -- $39.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Shiraz Cabernet blends are often found at the entry-level price point from Australia, but in this case, spending the extra cash will prove more than worth your while. Cherry, blackcurrant, spice and mocha notes on the nose show beautifully, while the big red berry, blackcurrant, and espresso notes on the palate are wrapped in firm tannins and a healthy, balanced oak treatment. Drinking well now, but capable of a few years rest in the cellar. 92/100

BODEGA MUSTIGUILLO "MESTÍS"

(Valencia, Spain -- $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Made primarily from the indigenous Bobal grape with a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Mests has a lot going on aromatically: plum, cocoa, white pepper, cherry and vanilla notes all show well. It's a full-bodied, chewy red, with cassis, espresso, vanilla and spice flavours, and would work wonders with a peppery steak. 90/100

TORRES 2009 CELESTE

(Ribera del Duero, Spain -- $20.95, Liquor Marts and beyond)

The Celeste brings some fantastic aromatics, including earth, raspberry, cherry, leather, spice and espresso notes. This full-bodied red balances the Tempranillo grape's fine tannins and light acidity with cherry, white pepper, black licorice, blackberry, raspberry and earthy flavours. 90/100

PFEIFFER 2009 CABERNET

SAUVIGNON

(Victoria, Australia -- $25.95, Liquor Marts and beyond)

The dark berry notes on the nose of this Cabernet are enticing -- cassis, blueberry and blackberry aromas are complemented by a hint of vanilla courtesy of some time in oak. While full-bodied, the Pfeiffer retains an austere, restrained demeanour -- it's a smooth, subtle red that showcases plum, blueberry and cassis flavours with light acidity and tannins. 90/100

WIRRA WIRRA 2008 WOODHENGE SHIRAZ

(McLaren Vale, Australia -- $28.88, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This McLaren Vale winery is consistently strong, and the Woodhenge is certainly one of their better red wines among those available here in Manitoba. Black cherry, lacquer, spice, black licorice, white pepper and espresso make for quite the monstrous nose. It's chewy and full-bodied, with black cherry, blackberry and black pepper flavours as well as vanilla and spice thanks to quite some time in oak. Stellar. 91/100

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition May 5, 2012 E4

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