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HI, you've reached the wine column of Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson. I'm away from my column right now -- in fact, I'm in California right now, where my dry, cracked Winnipeg winter hands are undergoing therapy by visiting wineries in Napa and Sonoma. To continue, please select one of the following options:

• To read a pile of reviews provided to tide you over until I get back, press one. I mean, read below.
• To vent anger at my absence, clench your cold, cracked fists and smash them repeatedly into this page of the Free Press. (Note: do not attempt if reading the column online.)
• To learn more about what I'm up to while away, visit www.winnipegfreepress.com, scroll down to the bottom where it says "Bloggers," and click on my name/face.

Thanks so much -- your reading of my column is important to me, and it will return to normal at my earliest convenience. In the meantime, the many wines reviewed below are listed from lightest to heaviest.

Have a great day! Beeeeeeeep.

Weingut Meinhard Forstreiter "Grooner" 2010 Grüner Veltliner (Niedersterreich, Austria -- $13.79, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Some initial sulfur notes on the nose eventually blew off, revealing mineral, green apple skin and perfume aromas on the nose. A light, barely off-dry white, the Grooner (made from the Grüner Veltliner grape) is crisp and juicy, with all sorts of green apple flavours on the nose as well as spice, a chalky note, some flinty pear and a hint of spritz. Well-made and in a cool package to boot -- serve with mild to medium-spicy Thai/curry dishes. 88/100

Dona Dominga 2011 Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (Colchagua Valley, Chile -- around $12, private wine stores)

Lime and grass notes are prominent on the nose here, with hints of honey, mineral and a modest sweaty note. It's a medium-bodied white, bringing green apple, lemon-lime and light bell pepper notes and some almost-sour acidity. A better-than-decent wine for the price. Drink with light cheeses. 86/100

Louis Jadot 2009 Combe aux Jacques Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, France -- $17.41, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Up-front cherry candy, fresh-crushed grapes, strawberry, and a hint of white pepper on the nose bring more character than your average Beaujolais. Sure enough, there's light black-tea-like tannin and a peppery note to the red berry flavours on the medium-bodied palate. Chill this down for 15 minutes and taste how this changes as it warms up. Try with a mushroom risotto. 88/100

14 Hands "Hot to Trot" Red Blend (Washington State, USA -- $15.31, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and a few other grapes are in the mix on this jammy red. Raspberry jam, vanilla, cherry juice, floral and light toffee aromas are out front on the nose; meanwhile, the vanilla ramps up on the soft, almost-sweet medium-bodied palate. Strawberry, raspberry and cherry notes are ripe and juicy -- almost sweet -- with just a hint of tannin on the short finish. Drink this jammy, fruity red with burgers or pizza. 86/100

Obikwa 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape, South Africa -- $8.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

The Obikwa is bright cherry-red in colour, with cassis, herbal, mint and light smoky notes on the nose; fairly typical of a lot of South African reds in our market. It's a medium-bodied Cabernet, with some light acidity and a touch of that smokiness offsetting the sweet blackcurrant and blackberry flavours. Good quality-price ratio here. Try with sharp cheeses or ribs. 85/100

Glen Carlou 2008 Tortoise Hill Red (Paarl, South Africa -- $14.93, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot brings ripe raspberry, licorice, mint, milk chocolate, graphite and some smoky spice on the nose. The Tortoise Hill is medium-plus bodied, with the spice, smoke and oak notes showing prominently on the palate. The red raspberry, cherry and blueberry jam notes, however, are still there in spades. With light acidity and tannin, try the Toroise Hill with a steak. 87/100

Mont Tauch 2009 Domaine Mont-Noir (Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France -- $17.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Limited info on the web leads me to guess this a combination of Grenache Noir, Carignane and Mourvèdre grapes (and maybe others). Strawberry and raspberry aromas are fleshed out by complex underlying notes of ripe cherry, earth, cinnamon and black tea on the nose. Medium-plus bodied, this red adds a meaty, funky note on the palate, with thin but firm tannins that provide structure and complexity. Chill this down for 15 minutes and serve with medium cheeses, savoury stews or chili. 90/100

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Twitter: @bensigurdson

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition January 28, 2012 E4