MILAN - Gabriele Colangelo's womenswear line for next winter drew inspiration from artist Laurent Segretier's "photographic digital distortions" — a concept that the designer translated with 3-D flair.
In the collection that previewed Friday on the third day of Milan Fashion Week, the notion of digital distortions came through in pixelated patterns on coats that sometimes gave way to panels of sheer grey fabric.
The sheer materials made for an "unfinished" look, Colangelo said in the notes, "creating a vacuum and allowing glimpses of the body."
Sheer materials also were used in sweaters, alternating vertical stripes with knitted patterns. In one version, a long sweater dress included a hood wrapped around the head creating a cocoon effect. The look was finished with a sleeveless mink-astrakhan-striped coat, itself of alternating stripes.
Colangelo experimented with textiles, layering shinier fabrics with a dulling sheer fabric that had created optical illusions, as if a tunic were actually a top and a miniskirt.
A series of heavy wool jackets — many in white — had a poncho effect, finished with a yarn fringe.
There was also an architectural feel to the clothing — another trend on Milan runways this season — with stiff fabrics giving shape or inventive cuts, like a notched collar laid flat, challenging the status quo.
The colour palette was decidedly urban with a dominance of greys broken up by green, maroon and some winter white. Colangelo finished the outfits with leather booties by Bionda Castana and camera bags with leather handles by Borbonese.