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Cold day in hell when I stop eating fish

Health benefits far outweigh risks

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2A report from the Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future, published in Environmental Science and Technology, analyzed seafood inspection data from the U.S., Canada, Europe and Japan.

It states 85 per cent of seafood used in North America is imported and much of it is farm-raised (a practice called aquaculture) in Asia and elsewhere in the developing world.

One negative is other nations have varying standards for aquaculture. For instance, they may use drugs which are banned in North America. But the big negative is most overseas farms are not inspected by North American officials. This means only a fraction of imported seafood is tested for drug residues, microbes and heavy metals.

In fact, on the world stage, U.S. inspection leaves much to be desired. For example, the Hopkins report says the Federal Drug and Administration (FDA) in the U.S. checks only a mere two per cent for these contaminants. This compares with 20 to 50 per cent in Europe, 18 per cent in Japan and 15 per cent in Canada. Moreover, Europe tests for the presence of 34 drugs and the U.S. 13.

There was more bad news for me. I love shrimp, but according to Hopkins researchers, shrimp and prawns were the seafood that most often exceeded drug residue limits. Crab, basa (a kind of catfish), eel and tilapia were other problem fish, many of which are farmed.

Vietnam was the country that had the most drug violations, followed by China, Thailand, Indonesia, India, Taiwan and Malaysia.

The question is, how much of a problem are drugs that are used to control diseases when fish are so crowded in farm operations? The greatest hazard is for farm workers. For the rest of us, no one knows how much damage chronic low-level exposure harms us. There's also concern that bacteria may develop resistance to antibiotics.

So, if like me you enjoy fish and seafood, how can you eat it without becoming depressed? Dr. David Lowe, author of the Hopkins study, suggests trying to locate domestic farmed seafood that has a greater chance of being inspected. And if you're lucky to live in Canada, there is no history of export violations.

The Seafood Watch Program in the U.S. lists the following fish that are high in omega-3 fats, low in mercury, PCBs and pesticides; oysters (farmed), Pacific sardines (wild caught), rainbow trout (farmed), salmon (wild caught from Alaska), freshwater Coho salmon (farmed in tanks in the U.S), albacore tuna from the U.S. or British Columbia and arctic char (farmed).

It's best to select small fish that are less likely to contain contaminants and have higher amounts of omega-3 fats. But since larger fish eat these smaller fish, they have a higher concentration of contaminants. Wild and canned salmon are always a good choice.

Remember too, all fish are not created equal. A three-ounce serving of farmed salmon contains over 2,000 milligrams (mgs) of omega-3 fats. Shrimp have only 250 mg.

If you're looking for fish with high amounts of magnesium, which protects against fatal cardiac arrhythmias, order tuna or crawfish. If you're concerned about blood cholesterol, boiled or steamed lobster has only 72 mgs per 100 grams compared to 75 for skinless chicken and two poached eggs.

Looking at the total picture, the health benefits of fish far outweigh the risks. In fact, while I write this column, researchers report people who eat fish regularly were 12 per cent less likely to develop colon and rectal cancer.

Today, there are many risky contaminants in our air and water that are worrying. But I'm not losing any sleep over those in fish. So hell will freeze over before I stop enjoying a fish dinner.

To see what vitamins and minerals I take see the web site For comments Twitter: @GiffordJonesMD

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition February 1, 2013 A17

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