The Canadian Press - ONLINE EDITION

Viktor & Rolf go black and white at no-risk Paris fashion show

PARIS - Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are taking no risks this fall-winter season.

Following the trend to de-clutter the catwalk, the Dutch duo known as Viktor & Rolf replaced their normally inventive art-infused style in Saturday's show in Paris with simpler silhouettes and a muted palette of black and white.

"It's a feeling of wanting to be real, a wardrobe for women to wear," said Horsting backstage. "And slightly rebellious."

"Slightly" was the key word here. There were some subtle nods to rebellion, like dropped waist lines and short flared minis (a clever play on peplums.)

But at times it felt like the boundary-pushing excitement that made them famous in the '90s was in hibernation this winter. Perhaps they are tapping into their commercial potential?

A shorter silhouette with short heels on boots, which Horsting said put women "closer to earth," worked nicely alongside the menswear tuxedoes. But dropped waists and skirts ended up elongating the torso and sometimes shortened the leg, unflatteringly.

Elsewhere, beautiful three-dimensional effects in fabric were sometimes hard to make out because of the flat black and white. They might have been better brought out with a splash of colour.

As ever, though, there were some great abstractions, like their signature bows blown up in leather smothering the torso. Embroideries nicely evoked "rips" on jeans, and featured on menswear tuxedos that made for some welcome androgyny.

___

Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

You can comment on most stories on winnipegfreepress.com. You can also agree or disagree with other comments. All you need to do is register and/or login and you can join the conversation and give your feedback.

Have Your Say

New to commenting? Check out our Frequently Asked Questions.

The Winnipeg Free Press does not necessarily endorse any of the views posted. By submitting your comment, you agree to our Terms and Conditions. These terms were revised effective April 16, 2010.

letters

Make text: Larger | Smaller

LATEST VIDEO

Andrew Ladd on the Jets' lack of a playoff season

View more like this

Photo Store Gallery

  • May 22, 2012 - 120522  - Westminster United Church photographed Tuesday May 22, 2012 .  John Woods / Winnipeg Free Press
  • Marc Gallant / Winnipeg Free Press. Local- Weather standup. Sundog. Refraction of light through ice crystals which caused both the sun dog and and fog along McPhillips Road early Wednesday morning. 071205.

View More Gallery Photos

Poll

Do you agree with the coming ban on sales of cigarettes at health-care facilities and pharmacies, including large retail outlets?

View Results

View Related Story

Ads by Google