The Canadian Press - ONLINE EDITION

Raf Simons says it with flowers, in bold Christian Dior couture debut

  • Print

PARIS - Say it with flowers.

That was the clear message from new designer Raf Simons in his 1950s-tinged haute couture debut for Christian Dior.

When the normally exuberant house first hired the Belgian designer, known for his minimalist and linear style, it raised eyebrows.

But Monday's show will win many over.

He revitalized with panache the curved Dior "flower women" silhouette.

It's what Christian Dior, the man, used to describe his revolutionary 1947 New Look of cinched waists and full skirts that resembled inverted flowers.

One thing's clear: Simons has done his homework.

In the four months since being named creative director, he's delved deep into the house's archives.

The result: a strong show in homage to Dior's love of flowers, but never a servile one.

Simons owned it.

Fifty four diverse looks paraded through several sweet-scented salons, wall-to-wall in myriad multi-colored flowers.

The first pieces were among the strongest.

Simons truncated the New Look, pairing high-waisted A-line mini dresses with contemporary black pants.

These were followed by a series of clean A-line archive pieces in bright reds and pale pink.

Their clean lines with large, hip-level pockets signalled a break from the vivacity of Simons' predecessor, John Galliano.

Dior's been looking for fresh direction ever since Galliano was sacked last year for a drunken anti-Semitic tirade.

This collection shows they've found their man.

Simons aimed to create a new kind of couture. He said it wasn't "just about reaching for a typical satin duchesse, a silk...but new forms."

And this was certainly fresh territory.

One bright yellow, show-stopping evening dress might have come in silk, but its skintight sheer top exposed the model's nipple ring.

Some of the looks in fur didn't quite work, but the misses were outweighed by plays on traditional form.

In a clever touch, Simons transformed the Bar Jacket into a tuxedo-dress, turning its cupped pockets into a Madonna-style conical bra.

Simons' show proves that change is a good thing. Now, Dior could well give Louis Vuitton and Hermes a run for their money.

______

Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

Fact Check

Fact Check

Have you found an error, or know of something we’ve missed in one of our stories?
Please use the form below and let us know.

* Required
  • Please post the headline of the story or the title of the video with the error.

  • Please post exactly what was wrong with the story.

  • Please indicate your source for the correct information.

  • Yes

    No

  • This will only be used to contact you if we have a question about your submission, it will not be used to identify you or be published.

  • Cancel

Having problems with the form?

Contact Us Directly
  • Print

You can comment on most stories on winnipegfreepress.com. You can also agree or disagree with other comments. All you need to do is be a Winnipeg Free Press print or e-edition subscriber to join the conversation and give your feedback.

You can comment on most stories on winnipegfreepress.com. You can also agree or disagree with other comments. All you need to do is be a Winnipeg Free Press print or e-edition subscriber to join the conversation and give your feedback.

Have Your Say

New to commenting? Check out our Frequently Asked Questions.

Have Your Say

Comments are open to Winnipeg Free Press print or e-edition subscribers only. why?

Have Your Say

Comments are open to Winnipeg Free Press Subscribers only. why?

The Winnipeg Free Press does not necessarily endorse any of the views posted. By submitting your comment, you agree to our Terms and Conditions. These terms were revised effective April 16, 2010.

letters

Make text: Larger | Smaller

LATEST VIDEO

Chief justices breakdown cameras in courtroom project

View more like this

Photo Store Gallery

  • Perfect Day- Paul Buteux walks  his dog Cassie Tuesday on the Sagimay Trail in Assiniboine Forest enjoying a almost perfect  fall day in Winnipeg- Standup photo – September 27, 2011   (JOE BRYKSA / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS)
  • horse in sunset - marc gallant

View More Gallery Photos

Poll

Do you agree with the province’s crackdown on flavoured tobacco products?

View Results

View Related Story

Ads by Google