HLEGU, Myanmar -- Voters in Myanmar trickled into polling booths today for a referendum that was expected to solidify the ruling junta's hold on power, even though the military rulers appeared overwhelmed by a devastating cyclone that killed tens of thousands.
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But in a country where the last election was held 18 years ago -- with the results rejected by the junta -- many people had no idea how to vote.
The referendum seeks public approval of a new constitution, which the generals say will be followed in 2010 by a general election. Both votes are elements of what the junta calls its "roadmap to democracy."
The proposed constitution guarantees 25 percent of parliamentary seats to the military and allows the president to hand over all power to the military in a state of emergency -- elements that critics say defy the junta's professed commitment to democracy.
It would also bar Nobel Peace Prize laureate Aung San Suu Kyi, the detained leader of the country's pro-democracy movement, from public office. The military refused to honour the results of a 1990 general election won by her National League for Democracy party.
The fear of the military, which has ruled since 1962, is so great that few people are expected to mark "X" -- which stands for "No" to the constitution -- on their ballot, making the outcome a foregone conclusion. Widespread rumours say the results have already been fixed to deliver an 84.6 percent vote in favour of the constitution.
Aye Aye Mar, a 36-year-old housewife, looked frightened when asked if she thought anyone would vote "No."
Her eyes darted around to see if anyone was watching, and then she whispered, "One vote of 'No' will not make a difference." Then she raised her voice. "I'm saying 'Yes' to the constitution."
Min Lwin, 40, made it clear that he did not believe his vote counted.
"What choice do I have?" he said, before quickly walking away.
Balloting was taking place across most of the country but was put off until May 24 in the areas hit hardest by Cyclone Nargis a week ago -- including the biggest city, Yangon. Some 27 million of the country's 57 million people were eligible to vote.
Polling stations were scheduled to close at 4 p.m. (0930gmt), with ballots to be forwarded to local municipal offices and then to the Referendum Commission. A final count was not expected for two weeks.
"I haven't read the constitution, but the government would not do anything inappropriate or bad for the country," said retired army soldier Nyo Aye. A dozen other people interviewed said the same.
The 65-year-old ex-soldier said he placed a tick -- a "yes" vote -- on his ballot at one of the polling stations in Hlegu, a town 48 kilometres north of Yangon.
Although music from loudspeakers blared messages such as "Don't wait, vote for the constitution," turnout among Hlegu's 130,000 eligible voters was very light, with people coming to its 119 poll stations in small groups.
Voting was being held in five of the 45 townships of Yangon division, the equivalent of a state, and 19 of 26 townships in the Irrawaddy delta, scene of the greatest devastation and loss of life from the cyclone.
Anti-government groups and human rights organizations, which have criticized the charter as designed to perpetuate military rule, have bitterly accused the government of neglecting cyclone victims to advance its political agenda.
There are estimates that more than 1 million people may have been affected by the cyclone, with many of them losing their homes.
The junta has so far allowed in only material assistance and has rejected the large-scale presence of foreign relief workers who have capabilities, which Myanmar lacks, to cope with the disaster.
"Even as hundreds of thousands of its citizens struggle for basic shelter, food and health care, Myanmar's government has prioritized acceptance of the new constitution," Amnesty International said.
It said the proposed constitution was "an effort to undermine respect for human rights and to entrench military rule and impunity."
Groups that led last year's pro-democracy demonstrations also issued protests while carrying on with their campaign urging people to vote "no."
"Instead of putting all resources toward saving the lives of the victims, the military is concentrating on legalizing military rule in Burma forever through a sham constitutional referendum," said a joint statement from the All Burma Monks Alliance, the 88 Generation Students and the All Burma Federation of Student Unions. Burma is the old name for Myanmar and is preferred by its pro-democracy movement.
The groups urged people to mark their ballots with X, which has become a symbol of opposition. Activists, using the cover of darkness, have scrawled and spray-painted Xs in public places in Myanmar's cities.
In Yangon, indifference to the vote appeared to be commonplace.
"That is the least of my concerns. I wake up every morning planning where to get water and when to start queuing for gasoline," said Nyi Nyi, a 45-year-old office worker.
The Associated Press
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