Analysis

Winnipeg Free Press - PRINT EDITION

Health benefits of soy are not to everybody's taste

By: The Economist

Posted: 05/5/2012 1:00 AM | Comments: 0

TOKYO -- If you want to learn how to live longer, look at the people of Okinawa, a string of islands in southwestern Japan. Raised on a diet of fish and soybeans, their life expectancy is among the highest on Earth.

There is a natural control group; many Okinawans fled to Brazil and Hawaii after the Second World War, where they switched to a meatier diet of steaks and burgers. All have been studied regularly by Japanese researchers over the past three decades to prove a soy-rich diet can prolong life. Now it is time for the taste test: Can a healthy bag of soy nibbles sweep the fatty potato chip off the table?

Kaoru Yamada, a young food specialist at Otsuka Pharmaecutical, a Japanese drug company, has risen to the challenge. She dislikes the taste of soy, so she invented a lightly baked soy pastry that tastes of cheese, is crispy, has soybeans rattling inside it and can sit on a desk -- or even on a bar -- for months without going soggy. Called SoyCarat, her creation went on sale in Japan this month. Otsuka, which also produces a big-selling health drink called Pocari Sweat, sees it as part of a counteroffensive against western snacks that are making Asians fatter.

The science is compelling: Research, albeit partly sponsored by Otsuka, suggests eating soy protein quickly lowers blood pressure, reducing the risk of cardiovascular disease. The company notes the average American eats less soy in a year than the average Japanese eats in a day. Otsuka is not alone in Japan in trying to use science to sell consumer products: For instance, Uniqlo, a clothing retailer, sells high-tech underwear it says makes sweat dry quicker.

But the marketing may be a problem. Sophisticated diners insist soy is scrumptious, but others vehemently disagree. Gary Larson, a cartoonist, once drew three disgusted lionesses spitting out the wobbly flesh of "a tofudebeest -- one of the Serengeti's obnoxious health antelopes." It struck a chord.

SoyCarat's brand name is tricky: Whatever the spelling, it evokes the idea of two things children shun and adults munch only reluctantly. Perhaps it should be portrayed as something laid back and Okinawan instead, like a bar snack. After all, what could be better than a life-enhancing glass of Orion beer in one hand and a life-extending bag of soy snacks in the other?

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition May 5, 2012 A17

Factual inaccuracy? Something missing? Help improve our journalism.

Know about news? Share your story suggestions, photos and video.

Spelling error? Punctuation problem? Send us an email if you’ve found a typo.

More Analysis

Undock

You can comment on most stories on winnipegfreepress.com. You can also agree or disagree with other comments. All you need to do is register and/or login and you can join the conversation and give your feedback.

Have Your Say

New to commenting? Check out our Frequently Asked Questions.

The Winnipeg Free Press does not necessarily endorse any of the views posted. By submitting your comment, you agree to our Terms and Conditions. These terms were revised effective April 16, 2010.