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The clean lines of the new Liquor Mart are intended to blend with the airport's design. (RUTH BONNEVILLE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS) Photo Store

As a wine writer, I'm lucky to be able to travel a fair bit -- usually to destinations warmer and, arguably, more picturesque than Manitoba. But I haven't travelled (or sent someone on their way, picked someone up, etc.) since the new terminal at the Winnipeg James Armstrong Richardson International Airport opened in late October.

Beyond the generally beautiful interior, what intrigued me most about the new airport was the Airport Express Liquor Mart located on the arrivals level (not past security -- I parked, walked in and browsed). It's a 600-square-foot shop that carries 220 products, with a focus on Manitoba and Canadian products.

"We had been considering going into the airport for some time, and saw (the new terminal) as a good opportunity to profile the Liquor Mart brand while servicing business travellers, people returning from travelling and the 1,500 employees that work there," explains Steve McConnell, marketing manager for the Manitoba Liquor Control Commission (which runs the airport Liquor Mart).

The Airport Express Liquor Mart doesn't look like most other Liquor Marts, but rather reflects the clean, modern lines of the new airport. "We were privy to what the airport was going to look like -- bright, with lots of natural light. We wanted to maintain that bright, light, airy look," McConnell says.

What occupies the store's shelves was largely chosen based on the needs of potentially weary (but thirsty) travellers. "A lot of work went into identifying who the customers are -- returning residents, arriving business travellers and airport employees -- so we tried to cater to that." Besides Manitoba and Canadian products, the store features a good selection of single malt scotch, as well some of the bigger brands of international wines that travellers/out-of-towners will recognize.

"When you get off a plane, you don't want to have to wander up and down aisles trying to make a selection. We tried to do that for them. You're not challenged to make big choices but you'll be happy with what's there," McConnell explains. "We've got cold wine, canned beer, lots of wine in Stelvin closures. We have 200-millilitre bottles of Crown Royal."

This bodes well for the traveller heading to a hotel room for the night -- pre-chilled wine and beer, smaller formats and/or screwcaps means less fuss.

Products made here feature a "Made in Manitoba" shelf talker, which will help visitors identify our local flavours. This currently includes three Rigby Orchards products, Crown Royal, four Half Pints products and a couple of Fort Garry beers. There are a couple of Russell Breweries products in the fridge labelled "Made in Manitoba" -- while this might seem erroneous, the B.C.-based brewery is now making some of its beer here (Russell also owns Fort Garry Brewing Company).

Although the shop is on the arrivals level, departing travellers can buy bubble-wrap wine skins there, pack their purchase in luggage they plan on checking, and take it with them. McConnell notes that there has also been a request for gift items, something they plan to add.

"We've started pulling in some gift packs. If people are coming in over the holidays to visit, they can pick up a quick gift at the airport, too."

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QUAILS GATE 2010 CHENIN BLANC (Okanagan Valley, B.C. -- $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Bright lemon, herbal, green apple, light white pepper and a modest mineral note show well on the nose of this B.C. white. It's crisp and light-plus bodied, with loads of green apple and citrus notes that bring medium acidity and good intensity. The stonier, herbal flavours provide some complexity while retaining freshness. Drink now with shellfish dishes or some pesto. Available at the airport Liquor Mart. 87/100

JACKSON-TRIGGS OKANAGAN ESTATE 2007 PROPRIETORS' RESERVE RIESLING ICEWINE (Okanagan Valley, B.C. -- $45.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Another Canadian wine available at the airport Liquor Mart, this dessert wine is deep gold in colour, with baked peach, bruised apple, crème brûlée, spice and brown sugar aromas. Rich and viscous, this icewine brings rich, intense peach nectar, brown sugar, baked apple and lemon meringue pie flavours with light acidity and a long, mouth-coating finish. A great holiday gift, or try with pecan pie or crème brûlée. Outstanding. 92/100

LAYER CAKE 2009 CABERNET SAUVIGNON (California -- around $25, private wine stores)

Cassis, smoke, herbal/mint, anise, and blackberry syrup notes on the nose deliver nicely considering this wine's general California appellation. It's a rich, full-bodied cab that brings slightly sweet blackcurrant flavours, as well as vanilla, black pepper, charcoal and black licorice notes. The tannins are soft but provide enough grip to satisfy for the price. 88/100

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Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition December 10, 2011 E4