Puerto Rico is a paradox: a Caribbean getaway that often looks uncannily like the place you're trying to get away from.
The 13,790-square-kilometre volcanic island that sits just east of the Dominican is a United States territory, and it shows. The drive from the airport is enough to make you think you've made a mistake in your choice of winter holiday: a depressing stretch of fast-food joints and car lots with only the occasional palm tree to let you know you're not in Peoria.
Of course, for Winnipeggers, the island's most alluring qualities are the tropical weather, sandy beaches and gorgeous Spanish style. However, if you're looking for unspoiled, verdant landscape and a taste of local culture, there are some barriers in your way -- most notably, the overwhelming Americanization of the most touristed areas.
For Puerto Rico's population of four million, there are 3.2 million cars. The reason for the automotive glut becomes clear when you realize there's nothing in the way of public transit. The capital, San Juan, has a bus system (though we saw no evidence of it), but other cities don't, and there's no way to get from one side of the island to another other than by automobile.
So to find the beauty off the beaten path, renting a car is the only way to go (unless you're the type who prefers his holidays to have all the comforts of home, including a nearby Wal-Mart).
While you're in the capital city, however, do wander the cobbled streets of Old San Juan, lined with candy-coloured buildings, old churches (and clogged with tourists when cruise ships are docked nearby). There's also a lovely seaside walk around the outside of the wall that once surrounded the entire city. Keep an eye out for the many cats that inhabit the rocks.
We stayed at the Hotel Milano, which, despite its prime seat in the heart of Old San Juan on the popular Calle Fortaleza, is suprisingly lacking in character inside, looking like any Days Inn. However, the staff is charming and helpful, the price is right and the location can't be beat, as most of the area's fine restaurants are on Fortaleza.
At the bustling, hip Aguaviva, the focus is on fish, as you can infer from its blue-lit interior and the jellyfish-shaped stained-glass lanterns that hang over the tables (aquaviva means jellyfish). They dish up several delicious varieties of ceviche (fish "cooked" in lime juice), including garlicky marlin and mahi mahi. They also make a killer mojito, the refreshing cocktail of rum, lime and fresh mint.
At Tantra, the food is an interesting blend of Indian and Puerto Rican, but the real inspiration is in the martinis, which combine exotic flavours such as cardamom, cinnamon and cloves (for those needing a break from the ubiquitous, if delightful, piña colada).
After San Juan, the next place most tourists head is El Yunque National Park. It's the only rainforest in the U.S. park system and though its status as a prime attraction means it's not the solitary commune with nature one might hope, it's still not to be missed.
Set aside a day for this trip, as the beautifully maintained trails beg to be taken at their own pace, so you can stop and marvel at the lush vegetation , duringand the densely forested mountains. There's a great information centre, an old observatory tower with fabulous views and trails for every level of athletic ability, with easy-to-traverse walkways.
For the more fly-by-seat-of-her-pants traveller, various companies offer adventure tours in other rainforest areas that include ziplining over deep ravines and scaling rock faces.
Acampa Adventures leads an excellent trek -- thrilling and informative -- through Toro Negro (Black Bull) rainforest in the mountainous central area of the island.
After a semi-nauseating van ride up perilously narrow, startlingly scenic winding roads, our warm, personable guides led us along mountain trails, through streams, under waterfalls, and even up a waterfall, when (wearing a harness securely attached to a line) we found foot- and hand-holds under water cascading down a 25-foot rock face.
Along the way, you get some botany lessons, learn loads of local history and snack on passion fruit and grapefruit plucked from the trees.
Lunch, prepared by a local family who lives nearby, is pollo y arroz (chicken with rice and pigeon peas), sweet potatoes and tostones, plantains mashed into patties, deep-fried, dipped in salt water and deep-fried again. (Puerto Rican food is flavourful but generally not fiery.)
Located on the western tip of the island on the wilder Atlantic side, Rincón is popular with surfers (it's mentioned in the Beach Boys' song Surfin' Safari.)
It's about a two-hour drive from San Juan (giving you ample opportunity to satisfy your Whopper cravings at any of about a thousand Burger Kings). Once you turn off the main highway, you'll find a sprawling, semi-sleepy town with all the amenities but fewer American touches.
Off the main strip, steep roads curve past pink, yellow and turquoise Spanish-style houses with ornate wrought-iron grates over the verandas, occasionally providing views of the ocean below.
Whatever beach you end up on, beware: the waves that attract surfers may prove too powerful for the casual sea bather. Even if you do manage to stay on your feet, your bathing suit will fill up with about five pounds of sand and assorted ocean flora -- and anyone sporting a string bikini can probably kiss her dignity goodbye.
Though small, Rincón caters to visitors with lots of nightspots and restaurants. The Tropical Restaurant on the main drag is a modest affair, but it serves ice-cold local Medalla beer and the best mofongos relleños we had. This Puerto Rican dish consists of mashed, fried plantain surrounding the filling of your choice, such as pork, conch, shrimp, beef or lobster, in a savoury stew -- comfort food at its best.
From Rincón, we moved on to the place that was the highlight of our trip: three days on the small island of Vieuqes (pronounced vee-ay'-keys) off PR's east coast.
There aren't any Hilton-style hotels on the island but there are some luxury resorts and some charming character establishments -- the SeaGate is one of the latter. Our kitchenette room, with mismatched dishes and local art, was a supremely welcoming, casual and comfortable haven.
Run by an animal lover who also founded the Vieques Humane Society, the SeaGate's sprawling hilltop grounds are filled with rescued cats, dogs and horses. It's not unusual to find a cat snoozing on the deck chair of the spacious, breezy balconies, which overlooks the mountainside and the capital city of Isabel Segundo, with a glimpse of ocean beyond.
Other animals are not so welcome. The island is rural, and at 5 a.m. the local roosters erupt into such a deafening cacophony of cock-a-doodle-dooing it would send Old MacDonald to the funny farm... and then the dogs join in.
Vieques is also home to many semi-wild horses, beautiful creatures descended from the horses of the Spanish conquistadors who landed on the island in the 1600s. They roam freely in the fields and often in the middle of the road -- as do the iguanas, which are often seen in the form of gruesomely squished roadkill.
(As an aside, Puerto Rico is filled with abandoned dogs and cats -- there are rescue programs in place through which American visitors can take dogs home to the States. Many of the mutts are singularly bizarre-looking in an Island of Doctor Moreau way; you can clearly see what breeds are in their background, from the wienery daschund body attached to a big spaniel head with a out-of-proportion fluffy tail.)
Until 2003, Vieques was not a tourist destination -- it spent over 60 years as a training base for the U.S. navy, which used about 70 per cent of the island's area for training manouevres and weapons testing.
In 1999, the navy admitted to testing radioactive depleted uranium shells in the island and massive protests finally led to the navy's departure. Today, a lot of the island is still restricted, meaning it's off limits to tourists, though the land has all been ceded back to Puerto Rico.
However, the beautiful beaches that were previously well-kept secrets are now accessible -- in a manner of speaking. It's a great feeling of accomplishment to bump over a nondescript, muddy, deeply potholed road and eventually end up at a postcard-worthy stretch of sand, fringed with palms.
Every beach has a different character: Nievo, in a rocky bay, has big waves to body surf, while one cove over, Media Luna is calm and clear, a snorkeller's paradise. Green Beach, on the west coast, has the grainy, yellow sand of an Atlantic beach and lots of coral reef to explore.
Our best discovery, not listed on the map, was Playa Para Prieta, with pristine white sand, plenty of shade and water the unreal colour of antifreeze.
Despite the island's small size, exploring all its beaches takes time. As one of my travelling companions put it: "There's nothing to do, but lots of places to do it."
That's an exaggeration, of course; there are lots of activities on the island, but not much in the way of night life or cosmopolitan diversions. However, there's quite a bit in the way of fine dining in both Isabel Segundo and the more touristy Esperanza in the south.
El Quenepo is located on the picturesque Malacon in Esperanza, and offers a fusion cuisine that's rich with Caribbean and Spanish influences.
For breakfast, head Roy's in Isabel II. Located in a bright pink house with a shaded terrace in the back, it serves specialty coffees, breakfast sandwiches and bakery items.
It's no Starbucks, though. And thank goodness for that.
jill.wilson@freepress.mb.ca
IF YOU GO...
There are no direct flights from Winnipeg, but United has regular flights that connect in Chicago, and Northwest has options as well. Fares hover around $1,000, though there are deals to be had on Expedia.ca, if you don't mind multiple connections.
Puerto Rico is an American territory. The currency is the U.S. dollar; English is widely spoken.
Renting a car is highly recommended. Websites about the island suggest taking a taxi from, for example, San Juan to Farjardo, intimating that it's an outlying suburb of the capital and not an entirely separate city about an hour away (if traffic is light).
Avoid San Juan at rush hour at all costs. It can add hours to your journey.
Speed limits are posted in miles per hour, but the distances on signs hearken back to the island's Spanish roots and are in kilometres, while speedometers are in mph.
Though you may be lulled by widespread English signage all over the island, once you hit the highway, street signs are in Spanish. It's a good idea to learn the basic vocabulary of the road: Exit, left, right, toll, etc.
If Puerto Rico seems to be remarkably well-policed, it's probably because police and emergency vehicles always have their lights flashing. In emergency situations, the siren will be on.
Vieques is accessible by a passenger ferry from Farjado, which makes four journeys a day and costs $2 (call 1-800 981-2005 to reserve). There is a cargo ferry as well, but keep in mind that most rental car companies will not let you take their cars off the mainland... with good reason, as the terrain on Vieques is more suited to Jeeps or 4x4s, which you can rent once on the island.
You can also fly to and from Vieques. There are several airlines with regular flights to the island. M&N airlines offers four flights a day at a cost of $87 (one way); the Vieques AirLink is about half the cost, but has a stricter restriction on baggage weight (40 pounds total). For more information on getting to Vieques, go to www.viequeslink.com.
If you're planning on visiting anywhere even vaguely rural, be sure to pack earplugs, unless you're the type who literally likes waking up with the roosters.
SeaGate Hotel, Vieques: Rates range from US$80 to $140, includes nice continental breakfast. Rooms are pet-friendly. E-mail concierge@seagate.com or call 787-741-4661. Hotel provides transportation to and from airport or ferry dock. For more info, go to http://web.mac.com/dosleones/SeaGateHotel.com.
Lemontree, Rincon: Quaint, sunny, well-appointed and self-contained units in two renovated houses right on the ocean, with huge, gorgeous balconies. Located seven minutes' drive south from the heart of Rincon. Rooms range from studios up to three-bedroom units with kitchenette. For rate information, go to www.lemontreepr.com.
Hotel Milano: Very reasonably priced lodging on busy strip in Old San Juan. Rooms are plain, but clean and serviceable, with mini-fridges. If you're not a night owl, request a room away from the street, as partying on Calle Fortaleza rages into the wee hours. Rates range from US$85 to $145, and include continental breakfast in the hotel's rooftop restaurant.
Acampa Nature Adventure Tours: This highly recommended company runs cave and rainforest explorations. The tour leaders are wonderful, genuine and informative; a far cry from the phony banter and canned speeches of many guides. Call 787-706-0695 or go to www.acampapr.com.
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