BORACAY ISLAND, Philippines -- Surrounded by palm trees and walking along the sugary white sand, I stare out at the turquoise-blue waters lapping up against Boracay's White Beach and count my blessings.
All my life I've spent late November and early December fighting the raw Canadian elements, yet here I am, in a veritable Garden of Eden, covered in tropical sunshine and being offered fresh coconut milk beverages by friendly Filipino beach staff.
Tourists show their enthusiasm during an island hopping tour around Boracay.
The Pacific Ocean here is crystal clear and warm. There are a few gentle waves rolling in and everywhere around me is a sense of calm and escape from all the worries of the world.
Yes, Boracay Island is paradise.
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The Philippines offers plenty of sun, sand and surf. It also offers some of the warmest and most hospitable people on Earth. That's a winning combination for Canadian travellers.
It's a nation of about 90 million spread out over 7,107 islands, and often it has been left out of the loop by Canadians heading to Southeast Asia. That's a shame. Fortunately, the Philippines is working hard to catch up and has recently launched its first promotional tours for travel writers. I was on one of the tours, and what I experienced makes me want to go back and see more.
Outrigger boats like this one are a common form of transportation.
Boracay Island is one of the greatest jewels in the Pearl of the Orient, which is what the Philippines is often called. Boracay is a one-hour flight south of the bustling capital city of Manila and is in the Philippine region known as the Visayas.
Aircraft land on the island of Cataclan, and after a quick taxi ride you arrive at a small beach where you are politely escorted to an awaiting outrigger boat that takes you on the short trip to Boracay.
The day I arrived was quite windy and due to the waves, the outrigger couldn't quite make it to shore. Before I knew it, friendly Filipinos offered to carry me on their shoulders to the boat so that I could avoid getting wet. The men were smaller than me but looked tough and equal to the task. Nonetheless, I felt embarrassed about allowing another man to carry me so simply hired one for a small price to carry my luggage to the outrigger, which was about five metres from shore. I enjoyed the short walk through the warm tropical water and sat down to enjoy the boat ride. (Normally, the water there is much calmer and the outrigger is able to reach shore, negating the need to be carried or get wet. My return trip to Cataclan three days later was a dry one.)
The water was clear and an aquamarine hue that is indescribably beautiful and found only in tropical regions. Once the boat reached Boracay we disembarked at the dock and were ushered to our resort hotel, the Boracay Regency Beach Resort and Convention Center. I was glad to see that Filipinos made up a sizable percentage of the tourists staying there. I later discovered that during the Filipino summer (hot and dry season), which runs from March to May, Boracay is a favourite destination for Filipinos anxious to escape the heat and the big city. One could say it's the Filipino Grand Beach.
The Boracay Regency has 285 air-conditioned rooms and three swimming pools, a landscaped garden and gazebos in which to find shade. It also has a modern convention centre that can accommodate 650 people and has all the modern conveniences, including Internet and Wi-Fi.
While the Boracay Regency's pools are great and the rooms are comfortable, there is little reason to spend much time there. The hotel is located just off White Beach, Boracay Island's finest and most popular beach. The sand is ultra-fine and white (some say it's the best beach sand in the world), and the ocean water is crystal clear, warm and that beautiful hue of blue. It is also shallow for quite a ways out, meaning it's very family friendly, laid back and safe for weak or non-swimmers. Sometimes there are a few waves, but they are not big and can be enjoyed by those who like gentle body surfing or who bring along a small boogie board. Wakeboarding is commonly seen along the water's edge.
White Beach is about 100 metres wide and about four kilometres in length. Boracay Island itself is only seven kilometres long and one kilometre wide at its narrowest point. So this is truly a beach island. There is plenty of shade underneath the palm trees or gazebos and there are lots of lounge chairs on which to relax. Or you can float about in the calm, clear waters or soak up the sun while lying on the soft sand. Your children (or you, for that matter) can build a sand castle or watch the locals construct their sand masterpieces, which you can photograph for a small price.
An unusual beach activity that is available to all is a relaxing massage. For a little under Cdn$10, you can enjoy a one-hour full-body massage performed by trained professionals wearing distinctive lavender-coloured jackets. These women are all trained and licensed and know what they're doing. You needn't leave the beach. They will perform the massage right there and believe me, you won't regret it. If you're happy with your massage, don't forget to give your masseuse a tip. It needn't be large, perhaps a buck or two.
If you get thirsty under the hot sun, don't worry. Waiters walk along the beach and will gladly take your drink order. But for me, it was most fun to buy a freshly picked green coconut from a beach vendor who cuts off the top and inserts a straw. The price was under a dollar and the coconut milk was most refreshing. After enjoying a few of those, you probably will never buy an old, brown, withered coconut from a Canadian supermarket ever again.
If lying on the beach and swimming aren't enough for you, or you simply need a change of pace, don't worry. You also have the option of sailing, jet-skiing, kite-surfing or island-hopping. There are several smaller islands surrounding Boracay and an outrigger trip is a lot of fun. Be sure to bring your bathing suit, towel, hat, drinking water and sunscreen. You will have the chance to snorkel and admire colourful coral and fish, explore some small caves, purchase inexpensive coral and pearl jewelry, swim and admire the awe-inspiring tropical scenery. On my trip a lunch was provided on one of the islands, consisting of barbecued chicken, pork, rice, vegetables and fresh fruit. Delicious.
Excursions such as the outrigger trip are offered by salespeople walking along the beach. They generally carry business cards with messaging numbers so you can take their card and text them to book later if you so wish. They are all licensed businesses but don't be afraid to check around and compare prices. As they say, shop around.
When it comes to shopping around, there are few more fun places than the Philippines, and Boracay is no exception. Just off the beach is an open-air street mall selling all manner of very affordable souvenirs, clothing, food, beach toys, whatever you like. The adventurous can walk a little farther from the tourist stores and mingle with the resident Filipinos and shop at less-touristy places. If you want, you can hire a motorized tricycle operator to give you an inexpensive ride -- usually for a dollar or less. The tricycle riders are everywhere, so you won't have to look far. Negotiate your price before your ride.
Filipinos are generally great business people who are as innovative and creative as they need to be in order to earn a living. Expect to be politely approached by salespeople along or near the beach selling items such as sunglasses, watches, jewelry, wallets, coconut drinks and other items. The name of the game is bartering. Most of salespeople -- men, women and children -- will deal with you comfortably in English. They apply gentle but determined pressure and some may follow you around for a while, especially if they think you are undecided or willing to be convinced.
Not surprisingly, the opening price offered will be high, so warm up your bartering engines. If you don't like the price after some time, be ready to walk away. Either way, it is usually a good idea to comparison shop, as any item for sale is most likely being sold by several others nearby. Shop around, be patient, and most importantly, be polite and smile. Filipino culture is a polite and gentle one, and displays of anger or rudeness are deeply frowned upon. If you reject an item for sale, always say "no thank you," and keep repeating it if necessary. It is also a good idea to smile. Filipinos smile a lot. It shows respect and also relaxes those to whom you speak. So remember what your parents and teachers taught you -- always say please and thank you, and smile, smile, smile. Your efforts will be rewarded.
When it comes to bartering, it is not only beach and sidewalk peddlers who can be bargained with. Most storekeepers are also open to negotiations. I did plenty of successful bartering in the Boracay street mall and elsewhere. Apply the same rules as above. Be polite, smile, shop around, and always be willing to walk away if you are unhappy with the offer. Don't show anger or frustration.
By the way, as fun as bartering is, and as rewarding as it can be, know when to draw the line at being a North American cheapskate. In other words, if you end up paying a little more than you hoped -- and this is not uncommon for foreign tourists -- don't let it bother you. In fact, you can look at it as a charitable act. The Philippines is not a rich country and some of the salespeople look like they could use the money. During my trip, an American dollar was worth about 42 Filipino pesos. That meant that even if I overpaid by 100 pesos at some point (and I no doubt did), I handed some salesperson an extra profit of a little over $2. Nothing to me, but it probably meant a lot to them.
During my island-hopping tour, a very cute little girl, probably no more than seven or eight, approached me selling coral necklaces and bracelets. I bartered a bit, but not too hard. It was obvious this was a living for her family. I bought around 10 items from her, and probably overpaid by a few pesos. The girl was determined and kept following me around. She was always polite and very professional. At one point after buying several items, I handed her an American dollar as a gift. A few minutes later, she came over and handed me a decorative coral trinket for a cellphone. I offered her money but she would not take it. It was her way of ensuring a square deal. And this from a young child. Now, that was an honest businessperson. Looking back, I wish I had bought her whole basket of jewelry. I know my wife and relatives here in Winnipeg would have appreciated the gifts.
greg.lockert@freepress.mb.ca
The three best ways to fly to Manila, capital of the Philippines: on Philippine Airlines via Vancouver; Air Canada via Vancouver; or Northwest Airlines via Minneapolis. Some flights to Manila may involve a short stopover in Hong Kong or Tokyo.
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