Expect the serendipitous in sultry and glittering Hong Kong - that marvelous metropolis of high technology and ultra expensive real estate with a population of some seven million people located on China's southeast coast next to the South China Sea.
You'll be pleasantly surprised. I know we were.
In fact, unanticipated occurrences enhanced the voyage of discovery that Maria and I were on during our recent 12-day trip to Asia's dynamic and self-proclaimed "world city," whose name in Chinese means "fragrant harbour."
This was my first trip to the alluring "Pearl of the Orient," where East and West meet and merge into the best of both worlds.
Hong Kong, which was claimed by Britain in 1842 following the First Opium War with China, was returned to Chinese sovereignty on July 1, 1997, and is now a Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China. The city operates under the "one country, two systems" principle, which - from our personal observations and discussions with politicians, activists, academics and others - seems to be working well.
With a land area of more than 1,100 square kilometres and over 250 outlying islands, Hong Kong is, as the guidebooks accurately comment, compact and accessible. It consists of Hong Kong Island, separated from the Kowloon Peninsula by Victoria Harbour, and the New Territories that begin north of Kowloon and extend to the Mainland China boundary.
But Hong Kong is more than just the throbbing, densely populated, third-most important business centre on planet Earth, as well as one of the world's busiest container ports. It's also, as I discovered, a region rich in natural spaces, all easily accessible from the bustle of polluted city life
Less than an hour's drive north from urban Kowloon lies the Wu Kau Tang Country Trail, nestled between the northeastern corner of the New Territories in the Plover Cove Country Park and adjacent Yar Chau Tona Marine Park. My two companions for this adventure were City University of Hong Kong academic, Dr. Wai Man Kwong -- whose elegant apartment near the university was my home for most of the trip -- and his friend, Dr. Sing Ngai, an emergency room physician in a Hong Kong hospital.
With the warm mist suspended like a damp, diaphanous curtain over the verdant, gracefully rounded hillsides, the three of us embarked on an invigorating, sweat inducing seven-hour hike -- with breaks, of course. It was like heaven for me
We were serenaded by the mingled background music of insects, croaking frogs, songs of birds, and the soothing sibilance of mountain streams; and we inhaled the sweet aroma of bright red and white flowers and other exotic flora. This delightful and diverse ecological environment was another unexpected and most welcomed Hong Kong delight.
Our journey took us through the protected fung shi wood, with profuse broad leaved forests, mangals, mudflats and streams and into the once thriving Hakka village of Lai Chi Wo.
The Hakka were agriculturalists who started to build their community over 400 years ago, says a memorial plaque bolted onto an inside wall of the arched village entranceway.
Only a few people and some mangy-looking, but friendly, black dogs and their puppies still live in the community. Most of the narrowly spaced, single-storey traditional-style homes are abandoned and their tiny yards are overgrown with weeds and other plant life.
Earlier in the trip, Maria, Carolyn and I went with a group of her friends on an excursion to Hong Kong Island's Shek O'Peak Dragon's Back trail, which begins at Mount Collinson. The dirt path eventually rises to a ridge 285 metres above sea level.
After the morning fog cleared, a spectacular scene spread below us -- the aquamarine sea splashing against the curving slice of picturesque beach at Big Wave Bay near the touristy Shek O Village -- an intimate place with narrow twisting alleyways, which three of us explored on our own later. We had an inexpensive multi-course lunch at a wonderful, packed Thai restaurant, and then spent time taking photographs on the beach under a searing spring sun as paragliders soared against the framing peaks like stiff-winged condors.
On the day retired high school math teacher Peter Kwon and I visited the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island, the Giant Buddha, which sits serenely atop Ngong Ping plateau, was shrouded in fog.
This only enhanced our sense of wonder at this striking, multi-levelled statue as we ascended the 260 steep steps to scrutinize the bronze Buddha even more closely. It was a worthwhile workout.
The cable car ride down the mountain to catch our connection back to Hong Kong offered breathtaking views of the sea and the stunning mountain scenery of North Lantau. It was an adventure in itself.
There was much else that we experienced -- the island resort community of Cheung Chau, with its narrow streets, lively outdoor market and old traditions; the seaside town of Sai Kung (on the Sai Kung Peninsula) with its promenade featuring outstanding and inexpensive awning-covered seafood restaurants overlooking the boat-crowded harbour; the 34-hectare Lions Nature Education Centre near Sai Kung with its meticulously maintained outdoor and indoor facilites; the Hong Museum of History, where in the section on the Japanese Occupation we came upon the medals of Sargeant L.P. Berard, "platoon commander of 'C' Company, Winnipeg Grenadiers ... who saw action in Hong Kong in 1941 ... and was a prisoner of war during the occupation"; the highly efficient public transportation system, including double-decker buses, mini buses, electric trams and extraordinary subway; the amazing sight of thousands of foreign domestics -- mostly young Thai, Fillipino and Indonesian women -- gathering every Sunday in Hong Kong's central business district to socialize amongst themselves; the world renowned Stanley Market and Temple Night Street Market; the Peak Tram cable car between Central and the Peak -- one of Hong Kong's most scenic routes; the cheesy but entertaining Madam Tussaud's Wax Museum at the Peak; and more.
Hong Kong's charms are captivating. I'll just have to return someday.
Martin Zeilig is a Winnipeg
freelance writer.
As one would expect from a vibrant international city, Hong Kong is tourist friendly and very accessible. It's safe during the day and at night. Chinese and English are the official languages. Most staff in shops, restaurants and hotels can speak some English or Mandarin.
Some helpful tips:
1) One Canadian dollar is pegged at about HK $7.6. It's easy to change travellers cheques at the Hong Kong International Airport. It's always advisable to have some local currency in small denominations available when you're visiting tourist sites and at hotels, stores and restaurants.
2) Octopus Cards: These easy to use and convenient electronic fare cards are accepted by almost all public transport, and at many restaurants and stores. You can add money to it when needed. It can be purchased at a special booth immediately after you exit Customs at the HK airport.
3) Temperatures in Hong Kong's subtropical climate range from plus 25 to 32 Celsius in summer; and plus 14 -19 C in winter. We were there in early April and it was quite pleasant, although the humidity level is, not unexpectedly, high.
4) Air Canada flies directly to Hong Kong via Vancouver. It's a 13 hour flight there; and, because of the prevailing winds, just under 12 hours for the return trip. We booked our trip through Gloria Lam at Regal Tours.
5) Visas are not required to visit Hong Kong, but make sure your passport is up to date. As the Lonely Planet guide book says, if your passport is within six months of expiration, "get a new one."
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