Cajun cruisin' is a perfect combination

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The New Orleans cruise industry received a king-sized boost last week with the arrival of Royal Caribbean's 3,100-passenger Voyager of the Seas from Europe, to make the Big Easy its home for the winter.

The largest ship ever to sail out of Louisiana, Voyageur is part of a capacity surge that will see the available berths grow substantially compared with 2010. Norwegian and Carnival Cruise Lines also have ships here for the winter.

Voyageur of the Seas will sail a seven-night itinerary to Cozumel (Mexico), Grand Cayman (Cayman Islands) and Falmouth (Jamaica), Royal's newest port. It's only one of the ships on the Gulf Coast getting the Royal treatment.

Tampa will be the home port to the Jewel of the Seas, which will offer four- and five-night cruises.

Galveston, Texas, will be the home of Mariner of the Seas, with seven-night itineraries that follow the routes of Voyageur of the Seas.

While cruisers will fly great distances to sail on a specific ship, the people who run the cruise lines are looking to capture the bulk of their business from local or nearby mass markets, where vacationers have the option of driving to the departure point. Being close to the market also means the ship carries a lot of first-time cruisers, which creates a unique and lively atmosphere.

For Canadians, it means a long flight, but it also means you get to experience a great city in New Orleans.

I was on this trip to join Voyageur because it was her maiden voyage, but I made one major error: I didn't allow enough days to enjoy this city. On the final day before sailing, I was up and on the go from 9 a.m. until midnight, and still hadn't ticked off all the places I wanted to experience.

But I gave it my best shot.

As far as dining goes, you have everything from upscale to down-home. Down-home was the direction my compass was pointed. I don't know what it is about New Orleans Cajun food that makes it so tasty, but I do know stacks of napkins are a must.

You can start at the legendary Cafe du Monde for your morning beignets (deep-fried dough smothered in powdered sugar) to Johnny's Po-Boys for hoagies smothered in sauces and dripping with every mouthful. Don't let the lineups at du Monde fool you. When you're serving only one product, the line moves quickly, and if it's not quick enough for you, go around back for a takeout order and eat outside in Jackson Square.

High up on the list of local favourites is Acme Oyster House -- if you want great oysters and good Cajun cooking. Again, there are lines, but if you sit at the bar, the wait is shorter. Mother's Restaurant is an institution that again calls for waiting in line, for their famous baked ham. I tried most of the above, and those I missed were given the thumbs-up by locals sailing on the Voyageur.

New Orleans may be the only cruise port where you gain weight before you get on the ship. For me, the food was the bonus. I went for the music, and with a budding musician for a grandson leading the way, we were hitting the clubs. Well, not quite: Because he is underage, we were listening at the windows and doors, or hitting places where age didn't matter.

One such spot was the legendary Preservation Hall, a 150-year-old building that hasn't seen a coat of paint and never will. It has only a few seats so most visitors stand and it's all worthwhile. Here, great musicians entertain in a setting that's unequalled.

Cajun, rock, blues, jazz ... it's all just a few steps away on Bourbon Street and the French Quarter, and while you will find locals there, many of them head to Frenchman Street. We rode the historic streetcars and saw the mansions and more, but where we really wanted to be was the French Quarter.

Next week: the cruise, which got off to a rocky start.

-- Postmedia News

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Phil can be contacted directly at portsandbows@gmail.com.

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition December 5, 2011 D2