Winnipeg Free Press - PRINT EDITION

Cabo's little brother

San Jose del Cabo has the golf, the weather and the charm, without the loud bars

SAN JOSE del CABO, Mexico — Jen loves it here. So do Courtney and Sheryl Crow. Yet San Jose del Cabo is often overlooked in favour of its more boisterous neighbour, Cabo San Lucas. But there is more to this place than celebrity spotting and lounging poolside.

You'll find the most diverse collection of marine life on the planet, a thriving art scene and surfing for all levels at what some might consider an unexpected family destination. What you won't find is a strip of loud bars leaking obnoxious tourists onto the streets -- you'll have to venture up the road 28 kilometres to Cabo San Lucas for that.

We didn't see any celebrities, but we saw why they come here. With no rainy season and limitless sunshine, the average 26 C temperature is ideal for its championship golf courses or strolling along an unlimited selection of beaches.

When it came to beaches, we were spoiled. But choose we had to, so we joined locals and expats underneath the thatched palm palapas at Chileno Bay's public beach on the Sea of Cortez. Dubbed the world's aquarium, by Jacques Cousteau, the sea supports the largest concentration of marine life on the planet.

Just wading out into the bath-temperature water will make you feel like you're walking into an aquarium. Snorkels are plentiful here, but unnecessary to view the angel fish, wrasse and neon tetras that splash all around.

You can also enjoy getting into the water at several different surf breaks. One of the best-known spots in the area is Zippers, a beach break outside of San Jose identified by the gringo hot-spot of the same moniker. This open-air bar and grill is the place to enjoy burgers and margaritas while watching surfers ride the waves and the kids climb on the restaurant's playset. Surfboards are available right there if inspiration strikes. A couple of Pacificos almost gave my husband enough courage to get wet, but he held off until the next day. While my daughter and I enjoyed angus manchego burgers and ocean views at 7 Seas restaurant, he rented a board from the attached Cabo Surf Hotel and joined the fun on Acapulquito (fittingly Old Man's) beach. He managed, but probably could have used a lesson offered by their surf school.

The size of the waves varies by tide and season. But no matter when you visit, amazing things happen at the tip of the Cape Region. If you're there between January and April you'll likely spot the migration of grey whales.

Our visit happened in November, the middle of nesting season for two turtle species. We were fortunate enough to release hatchlings and watch them take their first uncertain journey into the sea on Palmilla Beach at an event sponsored by Mexico's first annual paddle surfing competition.

As if holding a baby sea turtle wasn't enough for our daughter, we couldn't resist the opportunity to get up close with the most interesting marine mammal, the dolphin. For that, we headed into Cabo San Lucas for a Dolphin Encounter where kids can interact with the dolphins and catch a ride on their fins.

For a dose of culture, we meandered along the quaint streets of San Jose's historic art district. Weekly art tours take place on Thursday nights, with tables set up for children to create their own works of art in the main square. If art's not your thing, head to Casa Don Pablo Gallery, where more than 35 kinds of tequila can be sampled while browsing.

The days were so full that our daughter asked to go to bed at night (a first). It's easy to arrange with a variety of hotels for a range of budgets. La Jolla and Mykonos resorts boast beachfront, two-bedroom fully serviced condos from $600 a week while the Cabo Surf Hotel is a pricer boutique resort.

Sometimes travelling with kids is best managed by supplementing new experiences with familiar ones. To that end, we were grateful to have remembered our Costco card. With an impressive liquor selection, we were able to stock up and grab a budget-friendly meal as well. There's also a Mega grocery store conveniently located in the same plaza as McDonald's PlayPlace and Starbucks in San Jose.

As for kid-friendly restaurants, don't miss Habanero's, where children are entertained by a waiter/magician who performs tricks in between courses of coconut shrimp and carne asada.

Despite being neither rich nor famous, we thought we fit in quite well in San Jose.

-- Postmedia News

IF YOU GO

Do: Art Walk: Thursdays, November to June, 5 to 9 p.m., artcabo.com

Swim with Dolphins: cabodolphins.com

Surf Rentals: www.cabosurfhotel.com/en/6.surf/2.rentals, www.cabo-outfitters.com

Stay: Mykonos: mykonoscabo.com

La Jolla: vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/mexico/baja-california-sur/san-jose-del-cabo/la-jolla-de-loscabo

Cabo Surf Hotel: cabosurfhotel.com/en

Eat: Zippers: loscabos guide.com/zippers/

Habaneros: loscabosguide.com/habaneros/

7 Seas Seafood Grille: 7seasrestaurant.com

Getting there: WestJet and Air Canada fly direct from Calgary to San Jose Cabo, Los Cabos

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition February 12, 2011 E6

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