Travel

Winnipeg Free Press - PRINT EDITION

Serenity among the mountains

No electronic distractions at rustic, scenic Elk Lake Lodge

By: Lindy Mechefske

Posted: 01/29/2011 7:38 AM | Comments: 0

The Adirondack Mountains, in the 6-million acre Adirondack Park, is seen from Saranac Lake, N.Y. Most of the trails up New York's northern mountains, cut in straight lines a century ago, have eroded to rock in spots. (AP)

Enlarge Image

Elk Lake Lodge was built in 1904.

You might just shed a tear or two, as I did, when you leave Elk Lake Lodge. It’s that kind of place — hard to leave behind.

It casts a spell and soothes the soul. If you think that's a little too poetic, find out for yourself. But be warned: Book now for next year. Reservations are usually required months, sometimes even years in advance.

Located in the heart of the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks in upstate New York, about an hour's drive south of Lake Placid, the lodge sits on a privately owned 5,000-hectare tract of some of the most spectacular land on the planet. It's hardly surprising that Outside magazine ranked Elk Lake Lodge one of the 10 best wilderness lodges in North America.

My first thought on arrival was that it is a modern-day miracle that this mountainous, heavily forested property has been preserved in such pristine condition. My next thought was to wonder how a private landowner could ever afford to pay the taxes on this much lake and mountain wilderness. Certainly not with the proceeds from the 40-some guests who can be accommodated at the lodge on any given night.

As it turns out, the story is that the lodge and its land were purchased in 1964 from the Adirondack-based Finch Paper Co. by the Bloomingdale family of New York, who had spent many happy summers on the property. They simply wished to be stewards and remain largely anonymous as the owners. Bless the Bloomingdales; the preservation of this land is a priceless gift.

A lodge first opened on the property in 1875, but the current timber-frame structure was built in 1904. Inside, a wood fire burns in a grand fieldstone fireplace. The sitting room is furnished in the classic Adirondack style, with an enchantingly eclectic array of animal skins, handsome leather chairs, sturdy wooden tables, Navajo-style rugs, old maps, stuffed animals, archival photographs and an intriguing selection of books and games.

Both the long porch with its Adirondack chairs and the cheerful dining room overlook the scenic splendours of Elk Lake, which is framed by Dix, Nippletop, Macomb and Colvin mountains. The lodge itself has six bedrooms, and there are eight cottages of varying sizes spread out around the compound, all with mountain or lake views.

Two of the most popular cabins, Little Tom, the only two-person cabin, and Windfall, which accommodates up to four guests, are in high demand for their privacy and their views.

Our group of six opted to stay in Paige, a spacious, three-bedroom cottage perched atop a heavily treed bluff. The accommodations were spartan, but clean and comfortable: twin beds in all the rooms, unassuming furniture, two small bathrooms, each with a shower but no tub.

The lodge's reasonable room rate includes three meals, with breakfast and dinner served in the dining room, and a packed trail lunch. The meals are old-fashioned, with homemade soups, and entrees such as ribs or maple-glazed salmon. Wine and beer can be purchased. Breakfast is ordered off a menu. The sweet-potato pancakes loaded with butter and real maple syrup are definitely worth trying.

The friendly, middle-aged woman who served us so obligingly actually seemed happy to be doing her job. I can't think of the last place I've been where I witnessed the staff arriving and hugging each other before starting work. Everybody was smiling. You could feel the positive karma in the air.

Elk Lake Lodge might not be everyone's ideal vacation. There's no cellphone coverage, limited Internet availability, no clocks, no televisions, no telephones in the cabins and no radios. The only nightlife you'll find is the four-legged variety: raccoons, bears and other forest creatures. Perhaps, if you are lucky, you might hear an owl hoot or a loon cry from the 25-hectare Elk Lake.

Almost all the options for entertainment at Elk Lake involve being outdoors. There are more than 65 kilometres of private wilderness hiking trails in the area, all well marked. In addition, there's fishing, swimming, cycling, photography and canoeing. Motorized devices are not allowed on the lake, so the only sounds are the wind and the rustle of leaves.

During our weekend stay, we fit in two decent hikes. The climb up Grandpa Pete's Mountain, which leaves from Clear Pond, was spectacular.

We also used the canoes and rowboats, which are freely available to guests. The beauty of the fall foliage was breathtaking.

National Geographic has described Elk Lake Lodge as "the jewel of the Adirondacks."

It's hard to top that, and yet somehow those words hardly do justice to the lake, the landscape or the lodge. There is something so right about this place.

Lindy Mechefske is a Kingston-based writer and editor and author of the forthcoming travel book, My Australia.

-- Postmedia News

IF YOU GO

Where: North Hudson, N.Y., about a 41/2-hour drive from Ottawa.

When: Open May through October.

Cost: US$150 to $240 per person per night, depending on type of accommodation selected. Rates include dinner, breakfast and packed trail lunch.

-- Contacts: 1-518-532-7616 or www.elklakelodge.com

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition January 29, 2011 E3

Factual inaccuracy? Something missing? Help improve our journalism.

Know about news? Share your story suggestions, photos and video.

Spelling error? Punctuation problem? Send us an email if you’ve found a typo.

More Travel

Undock

You can comment on most stories on winnipegfreepress.com. You can also agree or disagree with other comments. All you need to do is register and/or login and you can join the conversation and give your feedback.

Have Your Say

New to commenting? Check out our Frequently Asked Questions.

The Winnipeg Free Press does not necessarily endorse any of the views posted. By submitting your comment, you agree to our Terms and Conditions. These terms were revised effective April 16, 2010.