Travel

Winnipeg Free Press - PRINT EDITION

Things Are Looking Up

Despite unfortunate year, Mexico still has a lot to offer

By: Phil Reimer

7/11/2009 1:00 AM | Comments: 0

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Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas anchored at Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

Travelling in the shoulder season, which is just before or after the high season, has its advantages. Prices are lower, the crowds are smaller and most people involved in the tourist market are happy to see you.

That was the case a couple of weeks ago when I cruised the Mexican Riviera aboard Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas.

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A view of the harbour in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, a frequent stop for cruise ships visiting the Mexican Riviera. (CANWEST NEWS SERVICE)

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Visitors to the Dolphin Adventure Center in Puerto Vallarta can get up close to these fascinating marine mammals. (CANWEST NEWS SERVICE)

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The main beach in Puerto Vallarta is located in the old town. (CANWEST NEWS SERVICE)

It's been a tough year for Mexican tourism. The recession and the H1N1 flu have hurt them badly. Although it's been difficult, Mexicans are optimistic about this winter.

The typical Riviera ports for cruise ships are Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta, and Cabo San Lucas. Our schedule was turned upside-down due to tropical storm Patricia, but we managed to visit all three ports.

Mazatlan, according to our guide Umberto, is the music capital of Mexico and once you hit the Zona Dorada, or Golden Zone, you'll encounter club after club and wall-to-wall stores. Along the waterfront as you travel from Old Town to the Golden Zone are statues that honour everything from Mazatlan's pulmonia taxis, which look like golf carts, to one of their biggest employers, Pacifico Brewery.

As in most of Mexico's coastal cities, walking is the best way to see the old parts of town. The Church of the Immaculate Conception was worth a visit in old Mazatlan.

I didn't go, but I heard favourable comments about the beach on Stone Island, the Papantla Flyers show and the day trips to the Sierra Madre Mountains and the towns of Concordia and Copala.

When we got to Puerto Vallarta, we had an authentic Mexican food experience. It started with breakfast at La Canoa at Marina Vallarta. It is a simple family restaurant with true eggs ranchero, orange juice, bottled water and coffee for less than six dollars.

It ended with lunch, typically eaten at 2 p.m., at 8 Tostada, which was only about a five-minute drive from the port. I started with a marlin tostada followed by a Mexican version of bouillabaisse that was loaded with fresh fish.

Between meals, we drove downtown and then to the old section of Puerto Vallarta.

I spent the morning at the Dolphin Adventure Center where you can swim with dolphins. They are truly amazing when you are up close to them. For more details go to www.vallarta-adventures.com.

The best beach in town is in the Romantic Zone. There is also a pier where you can watch local people fish with nothing more than a line and a hook, no rod or reel needed.

Our final port of call was Cabo San Lucas where Mariner anchored offshore and we tendered in.

While many passengers participated in a myriad of water sports, Mauro Butron from Terramar, a well-known tour organization started by former Vancouverite Kim Clapham, had a different idea.

We immediately took off with him for San Jose Del Cabo, some 50 kilometres down the main road on the way to Fortuna. San Jose represents the true Mexico.

I avoided the tourist stores as Butron took me to authentic Mexican craft stores such as Negri for ceramics, Veryka for Mexican artisans and Antigua Los Cabos for more authentic goods. All are located in the Mission Plaza.

After sitting and talking in the courtyard at La Panga Antigua restaurant, we enjoyed more Mexican food, this time a meal of delicious chicken mole. We then travelled down a dusty, rutted road to a most amazing botanical garden that featured cacti. Of the world's 1,500 known cactus species, 800 are grown at the garden which is called Wirikuta.

I blogged every day on this trip so if you are interested to read more about the cacti garden, each port and the ship, then go to my blog at portsandbows.com.

Visit portsandbows.com for daily updates on the latest cruise news, best deals and behind the scenes stories from the industry. You can also sign up for an email newsletter on the site for even more cruise information. Phil can be contacted directly at preimercanwest.com.

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition November 7, 2009 E1

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