Grenache… the lesser-known grape with panache

Opinion

Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz, Merlot, Malbec, Pinot Noir — when it comes to red wine grapes, these are the big guns. They’re widely planted, well-known the world over and have legions of fans.

But there’s one red wine grape that’s often overlooked in the conversation of the best of the best — Grenache. That it’s so often overlooked in terms of top red wine grapes is perhaps because it’s an incredibly versatile grape made in a wide range of styles, and which often shows up in blends with other grapes rather than on its own (although it’s certainly tasty solo).

In terms of worldwide wine grape plantings of both white and red grapes, Grenache sits around number seven of the top 10, with somewhere around 400,000 acres planted globally, although acreage devoted to the grape appears to be slipping. Grenache is typically vibrant ruby-purple in colour when young, and flavour-wise sits somewhere between the red berry-driven flavours of Gamay and the deep, black-fruit dominant notes of Malbec, bringing the best of both worlds, often with a splash of acidity and an herbal or leafy edge.

Grenache tends to do well in climates that are hot and dry, where it can enjoy a long growing season without a great deal of rain or irrigation. Long, hot growing seasons often result in grapes witih great ripeness. More ripeness means more sugar in the fruit, which in turn means more work for yeast to do in converting sugar to alcohol. This means Grenache-based wines often bring alcohol levels of 14 per cent or more. And Grenache vines are workhorses; when well tended, they can continue to produce fruit suited for wine, albeit with increasingly lower yields, for decades or even up to a century.

Grenache’s star shines brightest in the southern end of France’s Rhône Valley, where most reds are blends, and those blends tend to be Grenache dominant. From this region most reds also feature Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes, including those that come from the much-lauded Châteauneuf-du-Pape sub-region, where Grenache makes up around 70 per cent of plantings. And while Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines tend to be dense, hearty reds with serious aging potential (and equally serious price tags), many southern Rhône reds are accessible, bring great character and are well-priced.

In nearby northern Spain, Grenache is also one of the more widely planted red wine grapes, although it’s known locally (and appears on Spanish wine labels) as Garnacha. And while there are examples of inky, dark berry-driven Spanish Garnacha made on its own, it’s often blended with Cariñena (aka Carignane) in wines hailing from regions such as Catalonia and its sub-regions, including Priorat. Garnacha also frequently plays a supporting role to Tempranillo in reds from the Rioja region. These wines bring bolder acidity and red berry notes, as well as earthier, leafier components.

Beyond southern France and northern Spain, there are fine (but typically pricey) examples of Grenache being made in pockets of California, as well as compelling solo bottlings and blends produced in south Australia, particularly in hotter regions such as the Barossa Valley. Aussie producers have been particularly successful in creating dense, fruit-forward reds inspired by their southern Rhône counterparts: Grenache-dominant, blended with Syrah (typically known as Shiraz from Down Under) and Mourvèdre (dubbed Mataro in Australia). These red often sport the GSM acronym.

In terms of food pairings, much is dependent on where your Grenache/Garnacha is coming from and with what grapes it’s been blended. An Aussie GSM will work well with barbecued fare or pizza, a more rustic Rhône red could handle big beef dishes, while a Spanish red would work with mild to medium curries, goulash or game.

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Twitter: @bensigurdson

Wines of the week

Domaines Paul Mas 2020 Le Grenache Noir (Pays D’Oc, France - $17.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Vines for this young southern French red from producer Paul Mas, packaged in a stylish (and heavy) bottle, are relatively young, around 20 years of age. It’s bright purple in colour, and aromatically brings jammy blackberry and raspberry, as well as hints of leather, bubble gum and vanilla. It’s dry and medium-plus bodied, with bright red and black fruit front and centre, a splash of acidity to counter the modest tannins and a long, slightly warm finish thanks to the 14 per cent alcohol. Only a portion of this juicy, fruit-forward red spends time in oak, and it’s only a few months. Chill for 15-20 minutes and enjoy. ★★★1/2 out of five

Monasterio de las Viñas 2016 Reserva (Cariñena, Spain - $14.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

A blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo, Cariñena (yes, it’s a grape and a place) and Cabernet Sauvignon make up the blend of this Spanish red, all of which is aged in oak barrels for 12 months. It’s medium cherry in colour with some brick hues around the edge of the glass — not unusual given this entry-level red’s older vintage. On the nose come rustic, earthy aromas of leather, wild raspberry, cocoa and plum, with a peppery component in there as well. Medium-bodied and dry, the acidity is still quite lively, while the red fruit notes are more muted, taking a back seat to the savoury spice notes, modest oak and tannins. A slightly fresher vintage would do well to add some zip, but it’s still a nice red for the price. ★★★

Sister’s Run 2019 Cow’s Corner Grenache Shiraz Mataro (Barossa, Australia - $17.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This Aussie homage to Rhône Valley reds is 80 per cent Grenache, 15 per cent Shiraz (Syrah) and five per cent Mataro (Mourvèdre). Deep cherry in colour, there’s a beautiful core of violet, blackberry, mocha, black pepper and savoury herbs on the nose. It’s full-bodied, fruit-forward but dry, with blackberry and black cherry front and centre, a slight smoky, meaty note that comes with peppery spice and herbs and a jammy blueberry finish that lingers with light but chewy tannins and a somewhat robust 14.5 per cent alcohol. Chewy and deliciously drinkable now. ★★★★

Gassier 2019 Halos de Jupiter (Côtes du Rhône, France – around $27, private wine stores)

This southern Rhône Valley red is 75 per cent Grenache, 15 per cent Mourvèdre and 10 per cent Syrah, with the vines described as "very old." Black pepper, black cherry and blackberry aromas work wonders with a subtly savoury edge, all of which are extremely stylish. This deep, full-bodied red delivers big time, with generous blackberry, cherry skin, pepper, herbal and plum flavours delivered with some chalky, medium-grip tannins and a long, very warm finish courtesy of the 15 per cent alcohol. If there’s oak aging here it’s subtle; drink this powerhouse red now (after a half hour aerating in your glass), or cellar for 4-7 years. Brings the power of Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a fraction of the price. ★★★★1/2