I eat in -- obviously -- at least 52 restaurants every year. Actually it works out to many more than 52, and my "best of the year" column lists the most outstanding of those reviewed during the year. But there were so many more really good dishes that I would hate to see overlooked. Some I found in starred, relatively polished restaurants, some in bare-bones, mostly take-out holes-in-the-wall, too limited to be starred. The following is only a partial list of the dishes that still shine in my memory.
Airport hotels are rarely known for their food, but BISTRO 1800 is an exception. The star here was an exceptional Coquilles St-Jacques of scallops and shrimp in a luscious riesling cream sauce. Meats were another strength -- a prime rib steak on the bone in port jus, a Dijon-crusted rack of lamb, a hefty pork chop in wild berry port jus. Hilton Suites Hotel, 1800 Wellington Ave., 783-1700.
Although CHEZ SOPHIE'S owners are from Alsace, their pizzas are among the city's best, including one cream-sauced version that resembles Alsatian flammenkuchen. They also do such French classics as escalope of veal in a bacon-laced cream sauce, the killer tartiflette gratin of potatoes, bacon, ham, cream and Trappist cheese, and sometimes, if you're lucky, crepes suzettes. 248 avenue de la Cathédrale, 235-0353.