Twist on the classics at Capital Grill

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This article was published 23/02/2016 (3699 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The high cost of living elsewhere in Canada is proving fortuitous for the Winnipeg culinary scene as chefs and restaurateurs who have ventured to Toronto and Vancouver return home. 

Such was the case with Greg Gunnarson and Chef Wayne Martin.Dining with a good friend at the Capital Grill meant we could share plates when we were both undecided as to what to order from the appetizing menu of “renewed classics.” 

The linguine caught the attention of both of us. Neither of us are vegetarians but the promise of roasted cauliflower, tomatoes, capers, preserved lemon and crisp shaved fennel was so tempting. In the end we opted to go healthy with a beet salad, adding both goat cheese and chicken breast, but we also treated ourselves with short rib poutine.

Beet salads are popping up on many Winnipeg menus these days. The pickled variety of beets took up permanent residency on our kitchen table as I grew up, to the extent that I simply ceased to see them after a while. What a pity, as beets by any description are now one of my favourite veggies, particularly when accompanied by blackberries, balsamic dressing, wild arugula and walnuts.

Regular readers will know that I have a soft spot for made-from-scratch French fries. Enhanced with parmesan and truffle oil, I absolutely could not resist.

The Capital Grill’s version of poutine comes topped with pulled short rib meat and short rib au jus. We couldn’t detect the latter and were not overly impressed with the former. So we simply pushed the meat aside and tucked into the divine fries. Later that day I threw the short rib meat into a pasta sauce and received accolades from my husband.

The restaurant is fresh, uncluttered and filled with light. We sat next to a west window and basked in the sunlight. Service is pleasant and prompt and we were impressed that the owner took a minute to come over and introduce himself to our table. 

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Have you ever wondered what the life of a professional foodie is like? Here’s your chance to find out. Submit your suggestion for a locally owned, independent restaurant that may be appropriate to feature in this column, with your contact details to contests@canstarnews.com or Food Musings Contest c/o Canstar Community News, 1355 Mountain Ave., Winnipeg, MB R2X 3B6. You could win dinner for two at The Keg Steakhouse + Bar accompanied by Kathryne. Contest closes Feb. 28. Dinner will be scheduled after March 15.

Kathryne Grisim is a local food and travel writer and blogger: foodmusings.ca. She believes food = love.