Enjoy the Tennessee countryside

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 26/05/2015 (3883 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

There’s no question that cities like Nashville and Memphis are alluring for fans of country music, and the industry’s many notable people and places. But for travellers fond of country spaces, rural Tennessee is where you wanna be.

Tennessee’s flag displays three stars that represent the state’s western, eastern, and middle tracks, and the rich heritage you’ll find everywhere. Like Montgomery County. Nestled in the mountainous region north of Nashville, Clarksville is a charming blend of metropolitan-meets-small town. With world-class theatres and art, homegrown honky-tonks, unique boutiques, and an expansive network of outdoor trails, there’s much to do here.

Downtown provides the perfect vantage point from which to count the dozens of spires that top historic churches along the riverside. If you like home-cooked meals in quirky locales, the Lovin’ Spoonful Café serves tasty comfort food in a nostalgic setting decorated wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling with paint-by-numbers, ceramic animal statues, glowing lava lamps, and other memorabilia you probably haven’t seen since the 1970s. It’s a really neat idea, and quite the sight.

Another must-see place is Goodlettsville’s legendary Long Hollow Jamboree. Locals come in droves on Friday and Saturday nights to indulge in “meat-and-three-style” country cooking, followed by toe-tapping music from house band Blue Creek. In no time, folks are up square dancing, circle dancing, line dancing, and every other kind of country dancing. The hall is adorned with hairspray-hoisted hairdos, big hats, even bigger moustaches, polished boots and shiny belt-buckles, and western shirts and bedazzled skirts. It’s like something right out of a TV show, and people-watching at its absolute finest.  

Going even further back in time, Tennessee is steeped in Civil War history. Fort Defiance was built high above the confluence of the Red and Cumberland Rivers in the best spot for defending the region’s trading centres. Ironically (especially given its name), it ended up surrendering to Union troops without one shot fired. The outer earthen works and gun platforms are still discernible today, while an interpretive centre and re-enactors give insight into what life was like during this tumultuous military era.

One of the oldest and most fascinating architectural sites is a home started in 1798 and completed in 1802 by General James Winchester. Named after the rocky bluff on which it was built, Cragfont was the finest mansion on the Tennessee frontier. It typified the grandeur and style of the late Georgian period, and stood out in stark contrast to the area’s log structures.

Many original items still remain inside the house, as do lingering spirits of previous inhabitants. While our host wouldn’t confirm (or deny) spooky goings-on, he did become noticeably rattled when I inquired if there were any ghosts. It’s something I ask at every historic place, just because. He looked at me inquisitively, before posing a question back my way:  “Why, what have you heard?”

Up to that point, I honestly hadn’t heard anything. I was simply curious. But his response spoke volumes. So later, at the end of the tour, I was pleased when he handed me a little book called Long, Long Ago: Hauntings and Legends of Cragfont. It validated my question, leaving me to find my own answers. All I have to do is read this book.

In broad daylight, I might add.

RoseAnna Schick is an avid traveller who seeks inspiration wherever she goes. Email her at rascreative@yahoo.ca