Basking in Basque Country

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 12/06/2024 (451 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Basque Country is a unique cultural and historical region in northern Spain near the French border. The enchanting city of San Sebastián is a gem, known for its seamless blend of natural beauty, coastal charm, vibrant spirit, and intriguing history.

San Sebastián – or Donostia, in the local Euskara language – is named after Saint Sebastian. Since the city’s roots trace back to the year 1180, this association was likely made during the medieval era, when Christian communities often adopted saints as protectors. Today, San Sebastian is a truly extraordinary locale, with a wide range of experiences and traditions that capture the essence of the region.

La Concha Beach is a pristine expanse of golden sands right in the heart of the city. A haven for both locals and tourists, it’s a perfectly picturesque spot to bask in the sun or take a refreshing dip in the turquoise waters that flow in from Bay of Biscay. The promenade skirting the beach is lined with elegant old-fashioned lampposts and benches, and is an ideal place for leisurely walks or just sitting and soaking up the sunshine and scenic surroundings.

A short trek up Monte Urgull rewards you with a breathtaking panoramic view of the city. Here you’ll find Castillo de la Mota, a fortress with origins dating back to the 12th century. The castle was built as a defensive fortification to guard the city from naval and land attacks, with a strategic position providing a commanding view of the ocean and surrounding area. In 1950, a 12-metre tall statue of Jesus Christ was erected, which has since become a prominent landmark symbolizing faith and protection.

Exploring the Old Town, or Parte Vieja, is like stepping back in time. Narrow cobblestone streets wind through a maze of historic buildings, each exuding a sense of timelessness. The lively atmosphere is punctuated by the aroma of freshly prepared baking and pintxos – the Basque version of tapas – wafting from the bars and eateries. These culinary delights offer a delectable fusion of flavours, showcasing the city’s renowned reputation as a gastronomic capital.

Accommodations in San Sebastián include everything from modest hostels to elegant five-star selections. Casual Hotels is a great mid-range option, with a chain of hotels throughout Spain. Casual de las Olas San Sebastian is a small, laid-back hotel that provided a convenient and quiet stay in the largest room I’ve ever had in Europe. Each room boasts unique décor, and I was thrilled to discover they booked me into the ‘rowing’ room (my favourite sport).

Outdoor enthusiasts will love the variety of hiking options that showcase the beauty of Basque Country. From coastal trails to mountain paths, there are choices in and around San Sebastián to suit hikers of every ability. Local guides such as Miguel Mojedano are knowledgeable and passionate about their home, and available to escort you on day tours, like the hike along the Basque coastline.

This four-kilometre excursion takes you east from the city centre along the promenade of Zurriola Beach, a popular place for surfers. At the edge of town, the hike takes you up into the dense forests of Mount Ulia, with stunning views of the coastline along the way. Eventually you’ll descend a somewhat steep switchback staircase into Pasaia, a picturesque coastal village known for its charming old town, maritime heritage, and historically significant natural harbour.

I left Basque Country with a deep appreciation for the region, its people, and the sights and stories that will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression in my mind. Until next time.