Experience all Dunfanaghy has to offer

On my first-ever trip to Ireland, it was high on my list to spend some time in a coastal town. Looking at a map of County Donegal in the northwest corner of the island, an obvious spot jumped out at me. It appeared to have a sheltered cove, stretches of beaches, and nearby hiking trails. It was also one of the stops along the Wild Atlantic Way, Ireland’s most famous coastal driving route.

The town I chose was called Dunfanaghy. It began in the 17th century as a trade location and fishing port, before organically evolving into a town. When a stone quay was built in 1831, it gave trading vessels a place to safely dock. It also helped established the foundation that would ultimately lead to the growth of a local economy here.

The Dunfanaghy Workhouse opened in 1845 and was initially intended to be a refuge for the destitute. But with the Great Famine overtaking the country later that year, the workhouse quickly became a symbol of hardship with its harsh conditions, meager food rations, and forced labor.

Today, the Workhouse remains a significant historical and architectural landmark, reinvented as a heritage centre that houses tourist information, exhibition space, coffee shop, art gallery, crafts, and books. The famine exhibition with accompanying audio tour tells the history of the Dunfanaghy Workhouse, and the Great Famine.

It also reveals the story of a local woman – ‘Wee’ Hannah Herrity – who survived both. The humble yet powerful exhibit offers a real sense of what life would have been like in those times. You can pay respects to Wee Hannah’s remains, buried at the Old Dunfanaghy Graveyard – one of three you’ll see along the Famine Graveyard Walk.

The Kilahoey Beach Walk offers a serene coastal experience with scenic views, framed by the picturesque backdrop of rugged hills and cliffs. While the beach is stunning at any time of day, it’s most amazing at low-tide – when its golden sands stretch even further out into Sheephaven Bay. The adjacent estuary area is a favourite site for birdwatchers, with opportunities to observe species like plovers, sanderlings, terns, and herons, in their natural habitat.

The Horn Head Walk takes you up high above the town. The peninsula juts out into the Atlantic, consisting of hilly grasslands, patches of wildflowers, windswept peat bogs, and ancient rock formations. The elevation rises to 250 meters, with the uneven ground edged all around by tree-lined cliffs that drop dramatically down into crashing waves below.

Up top, a Second World War concrete lookout post still stands, once used to monitor German U-boat activity in the ocean channel. The Napoleonic stone signal tower built in the early 1800s helped defend Ireland against possible French invasion.

Back on the ground, hop over to Portnablagh Pier for a stop at Cocoon Sauna. Guests can reserve 45-60 minute sessions in one of two communal cedar-barrel saunas, with panoramic sea views, aromatherapy-scented air, and gradually expanding inner tranquility.

There’s nothing like soaking up soothing sauna heat followed by an invigorating dip in the Atlantic Ocean. At high-tide, the bonus is that you can jump right off the pier into the brisk and refreshing salt waters. Again, and again. As many times as you can.

Warning: may induce childlike glee.

MORE TO COME: My next Travelations will share more about Dunfanaghy, Ireland, including the oldest hotel in town, incredible food, and a vibrant pub scene with live music.