Globetrotting pastry chef brings home world-class knowledge

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This article was published 06/07/2022 (1468 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

THE MAPLES

ST. JAMES-ASSINIBOIA

The exterior of the kouign-amann, literally meaning butter cake in the Breton language, glistens under the track lights above. The caramelized sugar that gives it its sheen cracks like thin, spring ice as it tears open, revealing a web of croissant-like pastry with a particular gooeyness due to sugar folded between the layers.

The kouign-amann is a house specialty of pastry and cake shop Cake-ology on Arthur Street. It was also a noted pastry for renowned chef Dominique Ansel, creator of the trendy cronut, under whom Cake-ology co-owner Austin Granados trained during a stint in New York City.

“Working under him was very difficult,” Granados said. “Very high standards, keeping everything consistent on a daily basis.”

Granados, who grew up in and lives in The Maples, has also trained at world-class establishments in Toronto, Copenhagen, and Hong Kong.

Now, Granados is applying what he learned to perfecting his craft and bolstering the pastry scene at home in Winnipeg.

“In Canada, the standard is there, but I think we could bring more to the table,” he said, being sure to add there are many people already doing great work in the city.

“But learning under the top pastry chefs all over the world, I think it’s my responsibility to pass it on to my interns and to show them what it takes to become — not just in Winnipeg — how to become successful out there as well in the States, in Europe, in Asia.”

That means attention to detail. Around the somewhat cramped shop at Cake-ology, everything was spotless — the marble and stainless steel counters, the bins of various types of flour and sugar, the pan racks. The display cases full of cupcakes, cream puffs, chocolate mousse cake, Basque burnt cheesecakes, and other goods are checked multiple times each day to ensure they’re kept at exactly the right temperature. It ensures not only that the goods stay good, but also that the buttercreams swirling atop the cupcakes keep their silky texture.

Benefiting from Granados’ experience is St. James resident and recent Red River College Polytechnic grad, Holly Rivera. Rivera is interning at the pastry shop.

“It’s amazing. I was just talking about him yesterday actually, and that this is kind of like the first ever workplace I’ve really loved,” she said.

Rivera translated the experience into a bronze medal at the Skills Canada national competition in Vancouver this May, a competition at which Granados won gold in 2015.

Rivera said she dreams of one day opening a bistro with full meals, pastries and live music. There’s something special about feeding people, she said.

“I’ve given lots of cakes to my friends, and whenever they send me a message and I see how much they’ve enjoyed that, it makes everything worth it.”

Granados said that passion drives the culture at Cake-ology, but having taken over ownership of the bakery with two co-owners during the pandemic in May 2021, there’s been a few tough times along the way.

“When we first started, there was zero foot traffic, so we had to promote it in different ways. But now, people in offices are coming back, and it’s nice to see. It’s starting to pick up absolutely,” he said.

The head pastry chef said he envisions expanding to include a dessert bar with five to seven course tastings, a café, and a creamery. Besides selling goods from its Exchange District boutique, Cake-ology makes custom cakes and other orders.