October in the garden
Othello Ligularia — What an extended show Big Leaf Golden-Ray Othello has put on in the garden this year. In the first week of October, the sun’s warm rays were still lighting up the golden daisy-like flowers of this late season perennial staple. Adaptable to full sun and partial shade, Othello Ligularia is a substantial (35-47 in/90-120cm) specimen plant with large, dark green leathery leaves that have deep purple undersides. Hardy to Zone 3.
Sunlit yellow flowers Big Leaf Golden-Ray Othello (Colleen Zacharias)
Monkshood — The latest blooming variety of monkshood is Aconitum carmichaelii. This type flowers so late in the season that an early frost will keep it from blooming some years, but in a warm autumn, the ethereal hooded flowers with their satiny purple sheen bloom late into October. For the greatest number of blooms, plant this tall but sturdy perennial in full sun to partial sun.
Monkshood Carmichaelii late bloomer in a good year (Colleen Zacharias)
Toad Lily — The name does not do this speckled beauty justice. Long-lived and rarely bothered by pests or disease, toad lily (Tricyrtis hirta) is a rare find in local gardens. One reason for this might be because toad lily waits until late September or early October to show off its tiny, exquisite blooms. Toad lily grows in partial to full shade and prefers average- to well-drained soil. It is a member of the lily family. Plant in a protected location.
Toad Lily orchid-like flowers in October (Colleen Zacharias)
STARTLING IMPACT
BlackHawks Big Bluestem grass
Ornamental grasses create height, structure, drama, colour and movement in fall through winter. Thinking of planting an ornamental grass? Karl Foerster Feather Reed grass dominates sales of ornamental grasses and hence, our landscapes with its golden-tan-coloured plumes.
BlackHawks Big Bluestem stands out from the crowd. The depth of rich colour in BlackHawks’ striking bronzy-purple-black foliage with purple-red tips glimmering in the sunlight is something else to behold — and planting something that is unique keeps things interesting. Plus, this handsome variety is native to North America (Karl Foerster is native to Europe and Asia).
Hardy to Zone 3, BlackHawks Big Bluestem grows to a height of about five feet or 1.5 metres with a spread of two feet (61 cm). Picture it next to the vibrant yellow flowers of Rudbeckia Goldsturm or hydrangeas with creamy blooms transitioning to soft pink in autumn.
For best performance, grow BlackHawks Big Bluestem in a full sun location. Do not fertilize which will cause floppy growth.
BlackHawks ornamental grass (Walters Gardens)
WHEN TO PRUNE HYDRANGEAS TO ENSURE ABUNDANT BLOOMS NEXT YEAR
Hydrangea arborescence (example, Annabelle, Invincibelle, Incrediball) — Arborescence hydrangeas flower on new wood. Prune in spring (late April). Cut the stems back by one-third.
Hydrangea paniculata (example: Limelight, Quick Fire, Bobo, Firelight Tid Bit) — Panicle hydrangeas flower on new wood. Prune in spring (late April) or in fall once the plant is fully dormant. For the first three years, prune your shrub lightly just below the dried flower and above the first node where there are two leaf buds. Older shrubs in need of rejuvenation can withstand a hard pruning (six inches above the ground).
Hydrangea macrophylla (ex. Endless Summer) or Hydrangea macrophylla x serrata (ex. Let’s Dance Can Do) or Hydrangea serrata (ex. Tuff Stuff) — All of these produce flowers on new wood and old wood. It is key to not prune these types of hydrangeas at any time of the year. In spring, wait until new growth appears on stems before removing dead portions of stems to just above the point where new growth has started. Be patient!
2023 NGB GREEN THUMB AWARD: Scabiosa stellata Starflower
Scabiosa in the garden is a magnet for pollinators. The variety that we are most familiar with is Scabiosa japonica commonly known as pincushion flower. But Scabiosa stellata Starflower offers something altogether different. As pretty as the pale blue flowers are, it is the bronze-coloured geometric and globe-shaped seed heads of this unique annual that are prized for both fresh and dried bouquets.
Earlier this year, the National Garden Bureau, a 102-year-old non-profit organization in North America that promotes gardening on behalf of the horticulture industry, named Starflower Paper Moon as one of the winners of the 2023 Green Thumb Award.
Starflower grows to a height of about 28 inches (71 cm). Plant supports may be required. It is recommended to sow seeds four to six weeks before planting out.
Scabiosa stellata Starflower seedhead (Johnny’s Selected Seeds)
BRINGING TENDER SUCCULENTS INDOORS
September’s warm temperatures made it possible for Jeannette and Stewart Astleford to keep their succulent bowls outdoors in their St. James garden longer than usual. But on the last weekend of September, they transitioned their numerous non-hardy succulent plants indoors for the winter. Their unique collection includes Burro’s Tail sedum, Echeveria, String of Pearls, Chocolate Soldier Kalanchoe, Gorge Sedum, Gollum Jade, Crassula Jade, Flapjack Kalanchoe, and many others, including Fishbone Cactus, a unique epiphytic cactus native to Mexico.
Succulent containers bringing indoors (Jeannette and Stewart Astleford photo)
“We simply give the succulents a good rinse and spray a few times with insecticidal soap,” says Jeannette Astleford. “Some need to be repotted or split up and then repotted. We spread diatomaceous earth on the surface. Most have a lava rock surface over the soil, so the succulents are usually not too buggy. Then we bring the succulents into our basement and keep them under an array of grow lights for the winter and minimally water as needed.”
BRINGING GERANIUMS INDOORS
Yes, you can grow your geraniums as houseplants in the winter, but you can also store them bareroot for the winter or propagate your favourite varieties from cuttings. So long as your geraniums have not been nipped by frost, here are three easy methods:
- Potted plants: Dig up your plant with as much of the root ball intact as possible and repot in a clean container with fresh soilless mix and good drainage. Place your geranium in a bright location in front of a sunny window, preferably in a room that maintains a temperature that does not exceed 18 degrees Celsius. Sunny, indoor locations do not offer the same quality of light as a sunny space outdoors and hence your plant’s growth will naturally slow down. Water only as needed, about once every two weeks, and do not fertilize.
- Paper bag method: Dig up your geranium and gently remove all the soil from the plant’s roots. Place the plant upside down in a clean paper bag or box and store in a cool location (10 C) away from a light source or moisture. In late winter, usually by late February, prepare to repot your geranium by removing the dead leaves and flowers and cutting the plants back by one-half. Soak the roots in lukewarm water for up to one hour. Fill a container that has a drainage hole with clean potting mix. Add only enough water to slightly moisten the potting mix. Your plant may not look pretty at this stage but in a few weeks time, signs of new growth will appear.
- Rooted stem cuttings: Start by preparing a 4-inch container or multiple containers depending on the number of cuttings you wish to root. Fill each container with fresh soilless mix. Ensure that the containers you use have drainage holes. Dampen the soilless mix without soaking it. Make a hole to insert a cutting with a clean chopstick, skewer, or small dibber for planting seeds. Next, using a sterile pair of scissors, take 3-4 in/7.5-10 cm-long cuttings from the tips of the stems of your geranium. Cut at a slant just below a node (area on a stem where new leaves develop). Nodes contain a rich supply of cells that promote plant growth. Remove the bottom leaves on the cuttings leaving only the uppermost leaves. Quickly dip the cut end of each cutting into water just enough to slightly dampen, then dip the cut end into a small amount of rooting powder (readily available at most garden centres). Insert your cutting and firm into the soil.
Geraniums (Ball Horticultural)
For the first while, avoid placing the new cuttings in direct sunlight. It is helpful to group the small containers on a tray and place the tray inside a plastic bag. A plastic bread bag works well. Remove the pots once daily and mist lightly. The soil should be damp, not saturated. After two weeks or once your cuttings have rooted, place them in a bright, warm room on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lighting. As your geraniums begin growing, water only as needed and allow the surface of the soil to dry slightly in between watering.
TIPS ON CLOSING YOUR POND FOR WINTER
Riley Scott is the owner of Nuterro Solutions, Winnipeg’s largest pond and water feature supply store. He shares the following basic steps of shutting down your pond before winter sets in:
- Clean up and remove debris such as fallen leaves, dead plants, and other material that could decay in the water to prevent water quality issues. Installing a pond net to help catch any leaves and larger debris that may fall during autumn and winter will make your cleanup efforts much easier.
- Netting or tarp? Consider whether a tarp or netting works best for you. The benefit of using a pond net is that it allows you keep your pond fountain or stream running. It looks better than a tarp plus it won’t alter the water chemistry and can be secured to the ground easily with stakes. Birds, however, can get caught in netting so you may want to use a tarp instead if you have many bird visitors. A tarp is useful for catching falling leaves, seeds, and berries but it will cover your pond feature from view plus you will need to turn off your fountain or stream.
- Remove any floating or non-hardy plants that won’t survive the winter and trim back hardy pond plants to just above the waterline. Hardy water lilies can potentially be left outdoors but some varieties may have a moderate to low success rate.
Closing your pond for winter (Colleen Zacharias)
- Remove fish and bring them indoors. Your fish will need a large enough tank, lots of filtration and a high-quality food. Nuterro Solutions overwinters fish in a stock tank with a custom-made filter, aerator and standard house lighting.
- If your pond is deep enough (approximately five feet or 1.5 metres) and the type of fish you have can survive our winter outdoors, you will need a de-icer or pond heater for a continuous flow of oxygen throughout the winter. Koi and common goldfish (Comet, Shubunkin, Ginbuna) can handle our harsh winter climate, however, it’s important to know if your fish can survive our winters. Tropical species, for example, will not survive. Ice in Manitoba can freeze to a depth of 3.2 feet or 97.53 cm.
- Pump, electronics, and filter removal and maintenance: If your pond has a pump and filter system, it is essential to clean and winterize these components. Remove the pump, electronics such as lighting, and filter media. Clean and store them indoors to prevent freezing and damage. Disconnect the pump to avoid ice damage.
- Aeration: If you pond doesn’t freeze completely, consider using a pond de-icer/heater or aerator to keep a small area ice-free. This allows for gas exchange.
- Water level adjustment: Lower the water level slightly to account for ice expansion. This helps prevent damage to the pond’s structure.
- Regular checkups: Periodically check on your pond throughout the winter. Make sure your pond isn’t running too low on water and check for signs of ice damage or fish distress if fish are kept outdoors.
Your questions, answered
Have a question for a gardening expert? Reply to this email with your question and we’ll seek answers from some of Manitoba’s most knowledgeable gardeners. If you’re asking about a problem with a plant or pest, please attach a photo to help our experts diagnose the issue.
BLACK SPOT OF CABBAGE
Question: Brown leaf tips in cabbage: I had a few mid-season cabbages planted for sauerkraut and the heads were approximately 8 lbs and solid. The first about six outer-leaf layers were perfect, but when I sliced the heads in half pretty much the entire head had brown tips on the leaves, rendering the heads useless for shredding and pretty much anything else. I had a bit of this problem last year as well and believed it was possibly due to lack of water. This year we ensured they were well-watered. Could it be lack of calcium in the soil? I had added some crushed eggshells with each seedling; however, I may not have crushed the shell fine enough to have any benefit.
Answer: Thank you for your interesting question. You are on the right track with your comment about watering as the potential cause but as Tom Gonsalves, vegetable crop specialist, says, “In vegetables, most things are not black and white.” Winnipeg Gardener reached out to Tom Gonsalves, vegetable crop specialist, crop industry development, Manitoba Agriculture for his perspective on what may have contributed to the problem with your cabbage crop.
First, said Gonsalves, samples for lab analysis would assist with a definitive diagnosis, but without samples to be analyzed, the problem may be Black Spot, a disease that affects cruciferous vegetables such as cabbage.
“Black Spot found on cabbage can usually be found on lower pH soils (acidic soil) but it can also occur in neutral pH soils,” said Gonsalves. Most Manitoba soils have a neutral (pH 7.0) to alkaline pH (pH greater than 7.0). Soil pH influences the availability of nutrients including micronutrients.
“Typically, in fields with cruciferous crops that have been affected by Black Spot, you usually see higher nitrogen levels,” said Gonsalves. Black Spot can also occur in higher salinity soils (potentially increased by irrigation during periods of high temperature) as well as in soils with excess nitrogen or lack of micronutrients. “As salinity levels increase in the soil, the plant’s ability to use nitrogen is reduced,” said Gonsalves. Higher salinity levels go hand in hand with Black Spot.
There is a tremendous need for watering crops over a period of six to eight weeks when summer temperatures are their warmest. Evaporation and drying at the soil surface can lead to a buildup of salts. “It was smoking hot early on in the growing season,” said Gonsalves, “and as a result, more than average moisture was needed which can contribute to increased levels of salinity accumulating in the top part of the soil. In a normal year, the salts would be flushed down through the soil.”
In short, extreme temperatures that result in higher evaporation rates combined with increased use of irrigation water which can influence soil quality and lead to a negative impact on certain vegetable crops.
— Manitoba Master Gardener Association
MARK YOUR CALENDARS
Tree planting event: Call for volunteers. Save Our Seine, an environmental non-profit organization, has one more tree planting event planned for October. For dates and times, email: md@saveourseine.com
My gardening is for the birds: Join the Charleswood Garden Club on Oct. 11 at 7:30 p.m. for a presentation by Virginia Stephenson for ideas and information on how your gardening practices can make your garden more inviting to a greater number and variety of birds. It’s at 5006 Roblin Blvd., with free admission.
Oct. 14, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.: Community tree planting Call for Volunteers: Join the South Valour Residents Association and Trees Winnipeg for a 30-minute tree planting workshop at Valour Community Centre, 715 Tefler St. North, followed by a community tree planting of 20 large trees in the field behind Isaac Brock School. Lunch will be provided, and participants will be entered for a free tree. All ages are welcome, and no tree planting experience is required. All equipment and a child-minding service will be provided. For more information, please contact kyle.wiebe@svrawinnipeg.org .
Oct. 16-22 is Waste Reduction Week! Green Action Centre is offering a tour of the Forks on Sunday, Oct. 15 at 11 a.m. to learn about their Zero-Waste Vision which includes a geothermal heat pump system, BIOvator composter, water use, recycling, bees, and a public orchard. Green Action Centre will also host two free webinars: Wednesday, Oct. 18, from noon to 1 p.m., Reducing Your Food Waste; and Thursday, Oct. 19 from 7 p.m. to 8 p.m., a Food Rescue Panel will show you what Manitoba organizations are doing in food rescue. For more details visit www.greenactioncentre.ca.
The Manitoba Master Gardener Association invites you to a Zoom presentation, Entropy in Design: Five Disorderly Landscape Projects, on Oct. 23, 6:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. Join John Harper, owner of Studio 169 Landscape Architecture in Winnipeg and an instructor in landscape design history, University of Manitoba for this illustrated talk. Tickets are $10.00. To register, visit www.mgmanitoba.com.
NEW GARDENER WANTS TO KNOW HOW TO PUT HER GARDEN TO BED
Jan Barak, a Winnipeg gardener, planted a garden this year for the very first time. She planted irises, peonies, an Incrediball Hydrangea arborescence shrub, Echinacea Cheyenne Spirit coneflowers, a daylily, Nepeta Cat’s Pajamas catmint, and two delphiniums, all of which she purchased at local garden centres in spring. “Not really having a green thumb, I do consider the fact that everything lived a roaring success,” says Barak. But now that winter is around the corner, Barak wants to prepare her garden for winter and protect her plants so that they have the best possible start for next year.
Barak asks, “Should I leave my plants standing or cut them back?” This is a great question for both new and experienced gardeners. Most plants can be left standing for winter. There are many benefits. When perennials are left standing, the dried leaves and stems catch snow which provides insulation to the crowns and roots of plants. There are some species of beneficial pollinators such as native solitary bees which next in the dry hollow stems of plants during winter. Dried seedheads provide winter interest and are an important food source for overwintering birds. Practically speaking, it’s also much easier to find your plants in spring when they are left standing for winter!
It’s a good idea though to cut back iris leaves and stems in fall after the first frost. Use a sterile pair of pruning shears or scissors. A general rule of thumb as well is to cut back the stems and leaves of peonies after frost has turned the leaves brown.
Wait until spring before pruning Hydrangea arborescens Incrediball. Leave the dried flowerheads on your shrub for winter interest. H. arborescens benefits from being pruned back in spring by about one-third. You may also want to consider placing a ring of hardware cloth fencing around your hydrangea shrub (taking care to anchor the ring firmly into the ground prior to the ground freezing) to protect your shrub from rabbits who like to chew on hydrangea bark during winter.
Your new garden plants will benefit from a two- to three-inch (5.08 to 7.62cm) layer of mulch as this will provide plant roots with an added layer of insulation for the winter. Wait until there is a hard frost and the ground has frozen. A layer of organic mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, or arborist wood chips works well.
Echinacea coneflower and delphinium plants share something in common: crown rot is a risk if excess mulch is piled on top of plants out of a desire to give them added protection for the winter. Place the mulch around the base of plants. In spring, pull the mulch away to allow the sun to warm the soil surface.
MOONSEED VINE
The full harvest moon on Sept. 29 was spectacular. Common moonseed (Menispermum canadense), a native woody climbing vine, bears no resemblance to the round shape of the harvest moon but the seed inside the berry resembles a crescent moon. It can be found growing in woodlands and along streams from Quebec to Manitoba. Moonseed vine is useful for helping to prevent erosion on riverbanks or scrambling up a trellis to cover a fenced area. It has no serious insect or disease problems and is adaptable to full sun or part shade.
Moonseed vine from cuttings (Colleen Zacharias)
Interestingly, there is only one species from this family in Manitoba. The city of Winnipeg, Naturalist Services, lists Menispermum canadense, as one of over 80 different native species found on the east bank of the Seine River north of Creek Bend Road, south of John Bruce Road.
My first introduction to common moonseed vine was on a visit to the enclosed garden at the Japanese Cultural Association of Manitoba, 180 McPhillips St. Raymond Normandeau, the Japanese garden’s niwashi (a gardener is called niwashi in Japanese), told me that this curious plant with its dark green, lobed leaves is a vigorous grower that will cover a lot of ground quickly or it can be trained to climb a trellis. Normandeau also grows this unusual vine in his St. Vital garden and shared two cuttings with me for my garden.
“The moonseed vine is difficult to transplant because it is surface-rooted,” says Normandeau. “It took me three tries to get one cutting to take.” Normandeau shares this advice: “Once moonseed vine gets going, it leaps. It often doesn’t die back in the winter so don’t be in a rush to cut it back in spring.”
INDUSTRY NEWS: FRYFOGEL FLOWERS PERMANENTLY CLOSES
I once wrote that even GPS has trouble finding Fryfogel Flowers, the location of which is alternately described as in Oakbank, near Dugald, in Cooks Creek or in the municipality of Springfield. No matter because once gardeners found the quiet rural road where Fryfogel Flowers has been located for many years, they returned again and again.
Starting next year, Fryfogel Flowers will no longer be open to the public. But Don Fryfogel, a long-time presence in Manitoba’s horticulture industry, is not hanging up his trowel completely. Fryfogel is growing custom orders for 170 clients who have already placed their orders for next year. “I couldn’t stop entirely but this way I can still provide plants for my clients who have become friends after all these years and I get to continue growing which I love to do,” says Fryfogel.
Fryfogel Flowers Dutchman’s Pipe (Colleen Zacharias)
Fryfogel worked at Schriemer’s Garden Centre for 18 years before opening his own business, Fryfogel Flowers, in 2006. His focus has always been on a high greenhouse standard of quality with conscientious attention to detail. The curated selection at Fryfogel Flowers filled only a few greenhouses but offered a wide number of old favourites as well as top trending flowering annuals and unusual specimen plants. This is where I bought my first Dutchman’s Pipe, a weird and wonderful vine. Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) has heart-shaped leaves and startling flowers. I also bought my first Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus), an architectural thistle-like plant, at Fryfogel Flowers, along with other treasures such as Velvet Elvis plectranthus, Lophospermum vine, Jacobinia, and Medinilla magnifica.
But Fryfogel has also built his reputation on helping his customers succeed. One spring when there was a late frost, many people lost their tomato seedlings. Since most of his customers were in the habit of coming to the greenhouse on the May long weekend to pick up their online orders, Fryfogel decided to establish a second (later) pickup date for tomato plants. “It’s discouraging when people lose their tomato seedlings because of a late frost,” said Fryfogel at the time. “I want my customers to be successful.”
Fryfogel plans on travelling the world and getting away from our long cold winters. Hat’s off to you, Don Fryfogel, and warmest wishes.
COOL NEW PRODUCT
Bendable Moss Pole THIN
Mossify is a Canadian success story. The company was started in the garage of Lucas Picciolo in May 2020 in Markham, Ont. Today, Mossify’s innovative products are sold in more than 1,500 garden centres in North America. Mossify’s creations which include the Bendable Moss Pole and the first ever Bendable Coir Pole took the houseplant world by storm, winning several awards along the way. Designed to be flexible and adaptable, these products work by helping you to creatively train your houseplants to grow where you want them to.
The bendable moss pole. (Mossify)
Mossify’s newest innovation is Bendable Moss Pole Thin which offers a sleeker, thinner form with an adjustable three-prong stake. Each pack contains three poles and you can choose from three heights (16 in/40.64 cm, 30 in/76.2 cm, and 42 in/106.68 cm).
Tips on leaving the leaves and winter composting
Teresa Prokopanko is the sustainability coordinator at Assiniboine Park Conservancy. APC looks for countless ways to minimize environmental impact throughout its diverse operations through water use, energy usage, waste diversion, environmental health, and greenspace management. APC takes many steps to reclaim nutrients and now has a BIOvator on site which is an in-vessel composter that uses an aerobic process to break down large amounts of organic material.
Prokopanko is formerly a compost program coordinator at Green Action Centre. She shares excellent reasons why you should leave the leaves this fall and compost during winter:
Leaves:
- Leaving leaves provides important habitat for insects that need leaf bedding to safely overwinter. The masses of leaves at Assiniboine Park get mulched on site. We don’t rake them up and remove them. We mow over them and leave them in place which allows the nutrients to go back into the soil. Leaving the leaves is similar to grass cycling: the grass is drawing nutrients from the soil but if you cut the tops off the grass and remove it, then you’ve got this one-way arrow with nutrients leaving the soil which you then have to replace with synthetic fertilizers.
- We also mow only where we really need to mow the grass because we can then preserve habitat for pollinators as well as reduce our fuel usage.
- Leaves also provide you with really good brown organic material to feed the microorganisms in your bin over the next year.
Winter composting:
- A long walk to the compost bin outside during the winter is sometimes the reason people don’t compost. There are ways to deal with this challenge.
- One advantage of our climate is that compost freezes during winter. This is beneficial because when the compost freezes, water expands which breaks the cell walls in the plant matter and then in spring when the compost thaws, it breaks down even faster.
- If it’s not convenient to trek out to your bin every day during the winter, save your food scraps and put them into the centre of a couple of layers of your newspaper, roll the newpaper into a burrito, and place the burrito into a bin outside your door. The rolled-up packets freeze without compost sticking to the inside of your bucket. When it’s convenient, drop the packets into your compost bin.
LIST OF COLD HARDY PRAIRIE TREES
Rick Durand, a renowned prairie tree breeder and researcher, has created a list of trees that are currently grown by the major wholesale tree nurseries supplying trees to the prairie market. This list has been made available exclusively to Winnipeg Gardener subscribers. There are 236 trees listed including dimensions, tree form, drought tolerance, fall colour, recommended planting location, and type of pollination (wind or insects).
Born in Winnipeg, he owned and operated his company, Prairie Shade Nursery, near Portage la Prairie, where he evaluated research plots of woody ornamental cultivars and developed new trees and plants for the prairies. Durand developed over 20 tree and shrub cultivars at Prairie Shade Nursery, such as Gladiator, a top selling flowering crabapple. He also worked part-time for Jeffries Nurseries for 14 years as manager of research and development. At Jeffries, Durand developed and participated in introducing and promoting over 30 cultivars of perennials, trees and shrubs. A highlight of his career with Jeffries was the introduction of Amber Jubilee Ninebark, which was named in honour of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012.
From 2011 to 2013, Durand was the research coordinator for the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association. Ten years ago, he became the plant development coordinator at Bylands Nurseries in West Kelowna, B.C. There, he developed trees such as Top Gun bur oak. He now makes his home there, with his wife, Karen, and visits Manitoba often.
“Please admire my plant!”
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Reply to this email to send a picture to us and we’ll feature your gorgeous growth in future issues of this newsletter.
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