Dish
Winnipeg Free Press Logo
 

Popping the cork on a unicorn wine

On a Thursday evening in May 2011, I spent more money on a single bottle of wine than I had in my life — or have since, for that matter. (Or will again… in case my partner’s reading this.)

I was at the Winnipeg Wine Festival’s gala dinner, and there was a silent auction table laden with all sorts of tasty, rare and expensive treats. Between courses I wandered over to the table to check out the offerings when I saw a unicorn wine — a bottle of wine from my birth year.

Regular readers of Uncorked probably saw that Nov. 13 was my 50th birthday, meaning the unicorn wine was also of the 1975 vintage — and it was one of Bordeaux’s best reds, the Château Mouton Rothschild.

I took this photo of the unicorn wine when I first wrote about it in Uncorked in 2011. The label design and label artist changes every year; for 1975 it was Andy Warhol, which just makes it that much cooler. (Ben Sigurdson / Free Press)

I took this photo of the unicorn wine when I first wrote about it in Uncorked in 2011. The label design and label artist changes every year; for 1975 it was Andy Warhol, which just makes it that much cooler. (Ben Sigurdson / Free Press)

With a little “liquid courage” in me and some prodding from my tablemates, I wrote down a relatively modest bid of a few hundred bucks — way out of my price range, but I was sure I’d be outbid. I was right, but the liquid courage wasn’t letting up, and I raised my bid.

With a couple minutes left in the silent auction and the high rollers swarming the table, I figured the bottle was going elsewhere. But when the auction closed, my name (and $450 bid) was tops.

I figured I’d open the wine when I turned 40 — I wasn’t even 36 at the time, so there was plenty of time to plan a big uncorking. But 40 came and went, and the bottle remained tucked away in a dark corner of my basement. As the years went by I became worried the wine was either now a) very expensive vinegar or b) a dried-out tannin bomb, with no fruit flavours remaining, especially because, as Bordeaux vintages go, 1975 wasn’t a particularly good one.

Advertisement

 

Well, this past weekend we had a few folks over for a modest 50th birthday party. And as the night went on, I knew what I had to do — I had to open the unicorn wine.

A pal from the wine biz had come armed with a special two-pronged corkscrew which is helpful for pulling delicate corks for old wines. I deferred to said pal to take the reins on extracting the cork while we both nattered on about the wine, its provenance, etc. to a mainly non-wine-geek crowd. The cork emerged in one piece, although it was visibly quite saturated.

The 50-year-old cork, visibly saturated. And yes, those are Hawkins Cheezies in the background.

The 50-year-old cork, visibly saturated. And yes, those are Hawkins Cheezies in the background.

We poured the stuff around and I nervously stuck my nose in my glass. And, to my utter shock, the wine was outstanding — leagues better than I had anticipated.

The ‘75 Mouton had somehow retained bright strawberry and plum notes mingling with more balsamic, savoury and black-tea components. The tannins were grippy but had softened nicely. It was in the absolute perfect drinking window. I was stunned.

Maybe it’s because I was already so full of birthday cheer (a.k.a. “liquid courage”), or maybe it was the experience of sharing the brilliant old bottle with some good pals (including Eva!), but I can’t imagine I’ll taste another wine that special in my lifetime.

 

- Ben Sigurdson, literary editor and drinks writer

 

If you enjoy my newsletter, please consider forwarding it to others. They can sign up for free here.

And make sure to check out the other Free Press newsletters, such as Jen Zoratti’s Next, which dives into what’s next in arts, life and pop culture, or Business Weekly, with the latest local business news and a lookahead to the coming week.

You can browse all of our newsletters here.

 

Advertisement

 

Tasty tidbits

🍷 The 2025 vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau was released Nov. 20 but by the time you read this, the wines may already be gone from Manitoba shelves.

Manitoba Liquor Marts once again opted not to bring in any Beaujolais Nouveau; among the private stores Kenaston Wine Market, The Pourium and Calabria Market pulled the trigger on small quantities of the Georges Duboeuf, and The Pourium also has a Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau for $34.99.

The fun, fruity red hit shelves in Manitoba at $38-40 per bottle, a sizable jump in price over previous years.

🦀 Devil May Care Brewing (155 Fort St.) and Raw Bar Oyster Co. have teamed up to host a seafood boil at the brewery on Nov. 29.

The boil gets roiling at 5 p.m., with lobster, snowcrab, clams, mussels, sausage, corn, onions and potatoes tossed into the pot. A pop-up oyster bar will be available throughout the night.

Seating is limited, tickets $80 at Eventbrite.

🍣 Learn how to make sushi during an interactive workshop at Damecca Lounge (305 Madison St.) on Dec. 8 from 6 to 10:30 p.m. Students will learn how to prepare sushi rice, slice fresh fish and assemble rolls. Tickets $60 at Eventbrite.

🏅 Two students from Assiniboine College in Brandon won top prize at this year’s Taste Canada Cook the Books competition, which sees culinary students from across the country battle it out in Toronto.

Alicia Decosse and Presley Kuharski took home the gold medal for their dish of birch wasabi flat-iron steak served with a Kimora rice cake and butter-braised carrots.

Recommended fare

Ben: One last birthday-related note — I got treated to dinner at Shirley’s (135 Osborne St.) on the big day, and it was exceptional. After a range of killer starters, we dug into some mains — the pesto radiatore for my partner and the rigatoni alla vodka for me, both of which were among the best pasta dishes I’ve ever eaten in Winnipeg. The evening was finished off with some surprise tiramisu and a wee glass of amaro.

The birthday boy with his tiramisu and after-dinner drink at Shirley’s. (Julia Ryckman photo)

The birthday boy with his tiramisu and after-dinner drink at Shirley’s. (Julia Ryckman photo)

Eva: Meringue mushrooms, cherry surprises and lime cornmeal cookies are just a few of the wonderful treats I got to sample during a very fun cookie swap at the Free Press building this week. These reader recipes are part of our annual Homemade Holidays series, which launches Dec. 1 and runs for 12 days. I can’t wait to share this batch of sweet, inventive goodies with you!

Homemade

We also wrapped up our Homemade Cooking School series just in time for the holidays with a final class on baking, led by pastry chef and Red River baking instructor Richard Warren.

Find his tips for mixing, resting and rising here, along with a recipe for Cranberry Orange Cardamom Scones.

Patience with yourself is the key to baking, says chef Richard Warren. (Mikaela MacKenzie Photo)

Patience with yourself is the key to baking, says chef Richard Warren. (Mikaela MacKenzie Photo)

Homemade is a Free Press project celebrating home cooking in Manitoba. Want to share a recipe with readers? Visit the Homemade website to fill out the submission form.

 
 

Advertisement

 

More stories to sink your teeth into...

Janine LeGal:

The value(s) of veganism

During World Vegan Month, vegans across generations share their reasons for embracing the lifestyle Read More

 

David Sanderson:

Cue the cukes

Family-recipe garlic-dill pickles make cameo in locally-lensed holiday movie Read More

 

Gabrielle Piché:

‘Mixed messaging’: lack of local brands at first Liquor Mart pop-up decried

Despite symbolically pulling American booze off its shelves, the province hasn’t stocked its first pop-up Liquor Mart with Manitoba-made drinks. Read More

 

Malak Abas:

From tie-dye to tied up… in court: Foster sued

Dispute over investment in Pennyloaf bakery leads to lawsuit Read More

 
 
 

Share:

     
 

Download our News Break app