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AI food photos generate a bad taste

I’m currently reading Ina Garten’s memoir, Be Ready When the Luck Happens, and am feeling all kinds of inspired.

The woman has led a gloriously wide-ranging life fueled by gut instinct and supported at every turn by her beloved husband Jeffrey. Did you know she wrote nuclear energy policy in the White House and got her pilot’s licence prior to opening her food shop in the Hamptons? Iconic.

There’s a section in which Ina describes her vision for the food photography in her first cookbook, The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook, that got me thinking about a trend I’ve noticed among some Winnipeg drinking and dining establishments.

Ina Garten has led a gloriously wide-ranging life (CJ Rivera / Invision / The Associated Press files)

Ina Garten has led a gloriously wide-ranging life (CJ Rivera / Invision / The Associated Press files)

More and more, I’ve spotted AI-generated images of food and drink being used in marketing materials on websites and social media, and it really gives me the ick. Scroll through your favourite food-delivery platform and you’re bound to find examples — the lighting is often overly glowy, the colours too saturated and the subject matter becomes more than a little hinky the longer you look.

Hey, I understand the temptation. Running a restaurant is expensive, and there may not be money in the budget to hire a photographer. There’s also a huge amount of pressure on modern businesses to produce a constant stream of online content to attract real-life customers. Artificial intelligence is cheap and immediate.

But as a diner and food photography lover, the mere presence of an AI-generated waffle or burger or pint on a landing page is enough to make me run the other way. If you’re trying to sell food, using fake computerized food is a disingenuous way to promote your product. And there’s a high chance it could backfire.

Even if your food tastes great, a customer expecting a glossy, perfect-looking dish may be disappointed by the real deal. While it’s not exactly illegal to use AI tools in ads, fast-food companies have faced class-action lawsuits for less blatant examples of alleged false advertising.

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And yes, professional food photography often employs creative tricks to make foodstuffs look their best on camera, but there’s an entire uncanny valley between that and the promotion of wholly inedible meals made of pixels. I’d prefer an imperfect phone photo to the latter any day.

As Ina Garten observed in her storefront, and later translated into her cookbooks, food that looked accessible and delicious flew off the shelves. People eat first with their eyes. Fake food visuals are a bad look.

 

- Eva Wasney, food, arts and culture reporter

 

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Tasty tidbits

🥌 Gimli’s Interlake Brewing Co. is dishing out draw weight and curls to the button via a small sheet of curling ice on the brewery’s rooftop patio. The sheet at 72-1 Ave. (in the old Whitecaps space) is open for drop-in rock tossing Saturdays and Sundays from 2 to 4 p.m. and for casual bonspiels (sign up solo or with a team of two) from 4 to 8 p.m.

🍇 The Fairmont Winnipeg (2 Lombard Pl.), in partnership with Jones & Company Wine Merchants, is welcoming Brian Lynn, proprietor of Majella Wines, for an evening of food and wine on Tuesday, March 4 as part of the hotel’s Signature Dinner Series. Lynn, based in Australia’s Coonawarra region (known for its red soils and stellar Cabernet Sauvignons), will talk about the four wines being poured at the event, which will be served alongside a three-course meal. The reception starts at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $129 plus taxes and are available here.

♀️Women’s Health Clinic is hosting its annual Fête de Fem celebration for International Women’s Day on Saturday, March 8 at the Winnipeg Art Gallery-Qaumajuq. Attendees will enjoy appetizers from some of the city’s top female and non-binary chefs, drink pairings and musical entertainment. Tickets are $200 and are available here, with proceeds from the event going to the Graham Avenue clinic, which had to close temporarily last week due to issues with aging infrastructure.

🍰Asian-French fusion bakery For Us is relocating from its current location on Henderson Highway to a new home at 1353 McPhillips St. The bakery — known for its inventive cream puffs and crêpe cakes — was opened in 2019 by baker Shen Wu, who describes the move as bittersweet in an Instagram post. The new shop, located south of Northgate Shopping Centre, is expected to open in April.

 

Recommended fare

Ben: I gave the Sookram’s Brewing Co. Dark Raspberry Cosmos a test drive recently, and it did not disappoint. It’s a riff on the brewery’s standard Cosmos, a dry-hopped sour, but is made with dark malts and loaded up with raspberries. Darker in appearance but not as weighty as a stout, the brew retains some of the tartness of the original Cosmos while adding subtle chocolatey notes from the malt and jammy red berry flavours. You can grab from the brewery, 479-B Warsaw Ave., Liquor Marts or beer vendors for $4.75/473 ml can (plus deposit). Oh, and Sookrams celebrates six years of beers on Saturday, March 8 with a whole pile of new brews, food pop-ups in the tap room and more.

Eva: If I didn’t make myself clear above, Ina Garten’s Be Ready When the Luck Happens is a great read. Casual, funny, illuminating and interspersed with recipes. Available at McNally Robinson Booksellers, the Winnipeg Public Library and elsewhere.

 

Homemade

Festival du Voyageur is fini, but these reader recipes for French fare live on. Our latest Homemade feature includes tourtière from Vicki Henderson, French onion soup from Janice Scott and tarte sucre à la crème from Paulette Duguay. Next week, we’re focusing on birthday desserts. Visit Homemade to send in a celebratory recipe.

Tarte sucre à la crème is an annual tradition for the Duguay clan. (Ruth Bonneville / Free Press)

Tarte sucre à la crème is an annual tradition for the Duguay clan. (Ruth Bonneville / Free Press)

 
 

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