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You may recall a few months back, I wrote about comparing interprovincial trade to bottles of bourbon, or at least, bourbon-esque whisky, given the ban on American booze.
Since then, I’ve had the chance to try the two Canadian whiskies I mentioned that market themselves as bourbon-like. As I mentioned, you can’t, by law, call it bourbon unless it’s made in the United States. Which of course means real bourbon has been off the shelves since March.
I ordered a bottle of Rideau Whisky, from Ontario’s Top Shelf Distillers. Just last month, I received a bottle of BRBN, from Okanagan Spirits in British Columbia.
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They’re both very smooth, sippable whiskies, and make a nice base for a whisky and cola. But bourbon? It depends. If your idea of bourbon is that from eastern Kentucky, such as Bluegrass Distillers, then these two will do you well.
If your idea of bourbon is from western Kentucky distillers such as Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark or Evan Williams, you’ll likely be disappointed.
The two Canadian whiskies resemble more closely that eastern Kentucky bourbon, which is distinctly different from western Kentucky spirits. A theory of mine centres on different alkalinity in the water, since western Kentucky’s aquifers are under layers of limestone, while eastern Kentucky is more mountainous. Eastern spirits seem to lack the warmth, character and caramel notes of western products.
The packaging line at Maker’s Mark Distillery in Loretto, Ky., perhaps the best-known brand of bourbon in Canada. (Kelly Taylor / Free Press)
American products are, or will be soon, on the shelves again, but only to dispose of the previously quarantined inventory. Proceeds are going to charity. So once those products are sold, Liquor Marts will again be American-product free.
On one hand, it’s easy to feel sympathy for Kentucky distillers, who are feeling the pain of a boycott by several Canadian provinces. Several distillers have gone on record saying the ban on U.S. booze hits harder than tariffs would.
On the other, then-candidate Donald Trump made no secret of his plan for punishing tariffs. Any reasonable analysis would predict harsh retaliation by Canada. Despite this, Kentucky voted overwhelmingly for Trump.
Elections do have consequences.
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