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Fond farewell to faux meat

It was the mid-1990s: I was just out of high school, working at a record store (remember those?) and playing drums in a punk rock band when I decided to go vegetarian.

Back in those days, the options for meat-like protein for culinarily challenged young vegetarian scoundrels like me were scant — and often not very good. Yves’ line of veggie dogs and sliced “meats” were pretty much the only game in town. Their products didn’t taste exactly like meat, but some of the stuff was decent enough — others, well, not so much.

After decades occupying a small corner of grocery store produce sections, Hain-Celestial Canada recently announced it’d be winding down its Yves brand, and that the faux-meat products would disappear from shelves entirely early this winter.

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And while I’m no longer veg, and don’t regularly eat many of their products anymore, I’m a bit crestfallen about the pending disappearance of the Yves Original Veggie Ground Round (and slightly less so about their veggie bacons, which are decent in a BLT).

My partner is vegetarian, and at home my diet is about 90 per cent meatless. She’s a far better cook than I am — she handles most meal planning and cooking, while I’m the prep and clean-up guy — but I do have one signature dish I make regularly, which I’ve mentioned in Dish before.

My “world famous” vegetarian chili (not named by me, but hey, I’ll take it), the lone dish we ever make in our Instant Pot, is a version of this Kitchen Treaty recipe. I modified the recipe by replacing one of the cans of black beans with a half package of sautéed Yves Veggie Ground Round. (There are other modifications too, but saying any more would be giving away too much!)

The Yves Veggie Ground Round also makes appearances around these parts in enchilada casseroles, shepherd’s pie and make-your-own-burrito nights. In trying to find a replacement for the Yves stuff, I recently made another brand of faux ground round for burrito night and… it was not a hit. (“It tastes like soy,” said my teenaged son, not typically a picky eater and a kid who inhales pretty much anything set in front of him.)

Yves has long been outpaced and out-innovated by other faux-meat brands. Field Roast, for example, makes some killer veggie dogs … but they’re American. The Yves brand, meanwhile, still tastes like it did in the ‘90s — and there just aren’t enough condiments in the world to cover up that decidedly retro veggie meat taste.

But no one seems to have done as good a job on the faux ground beef front as Yves. The impending departure of the brand means I’ll be stockpiling and freezing packages of the stuff between now and the end of the year.

It also means that unless I can find an as-good-or-better substitution, my world-famous chili’s days are numbered.

 

- Ben Sigurdson, literary editor and drinks writer

 

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Tasty tidbits

🍿 Dustin Pajak has returned home with snacks on his mind. After several years spent cooking in high-end Toronto restaurants, the Winnipeg-born chef is back and preparing to launch a new concept inside Low Life Barrel House (398 Daly St. N.). Snack Häus is set to open Wednesday, Oct. 1, with a tight menu of small bites, shareable plates and desserts. Think grilled olives, sandos and chocolate milk ice cream.

🌭 Run, don’t walk to Kilter Brewing Co. (450 Rue Deschambault) for the brewery’s inaugural Glizzy Fest, happening today until 11 p.m. The hot dog festival is a fundraiser for Harvest Manitoba and includes an eating competition, all-ages colouring contest, drink specials and feature dogs, such as the slightly horrifying “Blockbuster Dog,” topped with Coca-Cola barbecue sauce, popcorn and M&Ms.

🧀 Kevin’s Bistro and sister restaurant Stella’s Cafe are opening new neighbouring locations at what appears to be the corner of Corydon Avenue and Wilton Street. Kevin’s, which specializes in comfort food and currently resides in the Exchange District, and Stella’s are run by the same ownership group. No word yet on when the new restaurants will open.

Recommended fare

Ben: If you’re missing California Cabernet Sauvignons right now, the Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Cabernet Sauvignon is a really nice example of the grape from Tuscany, a region best known for Sangiovese-based Chiantis. The Poggio al Tufo’s a deep, full-bodied and fruit-forward but dry red, with loads of ripe cassis, plum and blackberry, a lovely undercurrent of spice and vanilla (thanks in part to 12 months of aging in Slavonian oak casks), medium tannins and a long, warm finish. At $24.99 it’s a great value.

Eva: Keep an eye out for our long-awaited review of local hot sauces in next week’s paper! In the meantime, Ben and I will be recovering from some very spicy bites.

Homemade

Learn to love veggies with our latest Homemade Cooking School feature. Chef Camille Metcalfe shares shopping and storage tips, as well as common cooking techniques for this broad, divisive food group.

Camille Metcalfe, plating her broccolini, recalls how learning to cook eggplant properly transformed her opinion of the purple vegetable. (Mikaela MacKenzie / Free Press files)

Camille Metcalfe, plating her broccolini, recalls how learning to cook eggplant properly transformed her opinion of the purple vegetable. (Mikaela MacKenzie / Free Press files)

 
 

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