Dish
Winnipeg Free Press Logo
 

In praise of the humble diner

Last week, the fam and I were in B.C., having plotted out a last-minute holiday around a family event in Kelowna.

We flew in and out of Vancouver, meaning once we landed, we drove the gorgeous Coquihalla Highway to Kelowna. After a few days in B.C. wine country (during which we only visited one winery, Frind Estate), we hit the road back to Vancouver and spent a couple of days there before a quick ferry ride to Victoria for more sightseeing/family visits.

It was on the four-plus hour jaunt between Kelowna and Vancouver — which, for a prairie dweller, was a twisting white-knuckle thrill of a drive through the mountains, where the speed limit is often 120 kilometres per hour — that my love for the humble diner was rekindled.

Advertisement

Perfect summer pours and pairings

 

Diners aren’t exclusive to modest hamlets plotted along highways, of course, but for some reason, it’s the small-town diners that always seem to offer the most charm.

On our drive to Kelowna we stopped in Merritt and had lunch at Chloe’s Diner (it doesn’t appear to have a website, but you can check out the menu etc. on the Facebook page. Chloe’s offers standard diner fare (breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers etc.) as well as bulgogi rice bowls, a vegan “rainbow bowl” with tahini dressing (which got the thumbs up from one of our crew) and rotating specials that include pho, wonton soup and more.

Chloe’s chicken burger lived up to the hype on the menu. (Ben Sigurdson / Free Press)

Chloe’s chicken burger lived up to the hype on the menu. (Ben Sigurdson / Free Press)

I opted for the chicken burger, which was noted on the menu as being one of Chloe’s own recommendations.

The coating was light and thin, more tempura-like than your typical chicken burger, and the “patty” jutted well out of the brioche bun, topped with a speared pickle. The sando came adorned with a tasty spicy mayo, while the accompanying fries were served with a house-made spicy maple sauce that was out of left field but really good.

And my cola came in one of those classic textured restaurant plastic tumblers (you’ve likely seen them in that unmistakable red colour).

(Fun fact: Merritt was one of the primary filming locations for the 2022 blockbuster Jurassic World: Dominion, and Atom Egoyan’s The Sweet Hereafter.)

The service at Chloe’s was exceptionally cheerful, although the many, MANY signs plastered on the wall insisting customers not touch the blinds led us to believe there had been an incident in the past. (We did not, it goes without saying, touch the blinds.)

The day we stopped in Hope, the town was giving off a decidedly Twin Peaks vibe. (Ben Sigurdson / Free Press)

The day we stopped in Hope, the town was giving off a decidedly Twin Peaks vibe. (Ben Sigurdson / Free Press)

On the way back from Kelowna, we stopped in Hope, where I had read about an apparently charming eatery called Home Restaurant. But with a lineup out the door, we went off in search of a backup — and stumbled upon the delightful Rolly’s.

The place offered up a similar vibe to Chloe’s — hearty, down-home food and classic diner decor (in this case, a range of decorative plates on the walls) and even a display case for slices of pie. The coffee was classic diner java — somewhat nondescript but very strong (and refilled often) — and the pancakes were exceptional. The service was predictably attentive and charming; I’m fairly certain I was called “hon’” at one or both spots.

And another fun fact: like Merritt, Hope has made an appearance on the big screen — it was where the 1982 film First Blood was filmed, in which Sylvester Stallone made his first appearance as John Rambo. (There’s even a Rambo statue made of red cedar.)

The recent reopening of Winnipeg’s iconic Thunderbird Restaurant got me thinking about Manitoba’s can’t-miss diners — what are your favourites?

P.S. Thanks to everyone who wrote in with their local veggie burger recommendations! Eva will have plenty of spots to sample.

 

- Ben Sigurdson, literary editor and drinks writer

 

If you enjoy my newsletter, please consider forwarding it to others. They can sign up for free here.

And make sure to check out the other Free Press newsletters, such as Jen Zoratti’s Next, which dives into what’s next in arts, life and pop culture, or Business Weekly, with the latest local business news and a lookahead to the coming week.

You can browse all of our newsletters here.

 

Advertisement

Three Savour Manitoba magazine covers promoting a food, drink, and lifestyle publication.
 

Tasty tidbits

⚾ The Winnipeg Goldeyes host the third annual Ballpark Brewfest on Saturday, July 18 at Blue Cross Park (1 Portage Ave. East). Twenty-four local breweries will be serving samples during the event, which runs from 1 to 5 p.m. rain or shine. General admission tickets are $70 and include a souvenir glass. Designated driver tickets are $10 and include a non-alcoholic beer.

🪡 Red River Métis beadwork artist Melanie Gamache’s Perlage: A Métis Voyage events showcase Métis culture and history through food, nature and beading. Tickets are $129 per person and include a forest walk, beading and samples of local bison jerky, butter, cheese, honey and homemade bannock. The next available experiences run July 26 and Aug. 9 from 12:30 to 4:30 p.m. at Gamache’s property in Ste-Geneviève.

 

Recommended fare

Ben: The pizza at Red Ember Common is pretty much top shelf across the board, but the last time I was at The Forks Market, I tried the Happy Pig, which comes with a vodka sauce as well as house pork sausage, red onion, parsley and fontina cheese. It’s simple but delicious.

Eva: Biscoff-flavoured ice cream, that is all. You can find the iconic cookie in a Blizzard from Dairy Queen or on the menu at many local ice cream vendors, including Dug and Betty’s (309 Des Meurons St.), Sub Zero (298 Jamison Ave.) and Shake ‘n’ Rolls (245 Lucas Ave.).

 
 

Advertisement

Get ready to savour Manitoba's freshest summer flavours
 

More stories to sink your teeth into...

Eva Wasney:

When the Moon Gate’s alive, and they bake pizza pies

Whitemouth guest house’s weekly ’za nights prove popular Read More

 

Zoe Pierce:

Tavern United closes downtown location

For the crowd leaving a sports event or concert in downtown Winnipeg, Tavern United was often a familiar stop across from Canada Life Centre. That longtime routine has now ended with the sports bar’s permanent closure. Read More

 

Aaron Epp:

Winnipeg Beach staple Playland back in action

Tyler Bennie and Melanie McFarlane needed a change of pace, so they bought an arcade. Read More

 

Tiago Resko:

Enjoy a taste of the West End on weekly eatery tours

Winnipeg’s West End has a vibrant vibe all its own — and throughout the summer, people can explore the neighbourhood via organized tours that visit restaurants in the area. Around the World in a Fe... Read More

 

Brittany Hobson, The Canadian Press:

Manitoba eyes shrinkflation law, grocery store in downtown Winnipeg

WINNIPEG - Manitoba’s government says it is eyeing new rules to mandate unit pricing in grocery stores in order to shine a light on producers who reduce the size of a product while keeping th... Read More

 

Tiago Resko:

Winnipeg’s Slurpee crown at risk from thirsty Calgarians

Slushy 7-Eleven drink a big seller in Canada Read More

 

Aaron Epp:

Steinbach to be Jersey Mike’s local launch pad

Sandwich chain’s first Manitoba location brings Canadian total to 33; Winnipeg sites in mix for next year Read More

 

Ashley Joannou, The Canadian Press:

$8-million settlement proposed in national beef price-fixing class-action

VANCOUVER - Conner Macdonald says he's watched for the last eight years as the price of beef climbed "astronomically," as customers at the butcher shop where he works turned to chicken or por... Read More

 
 
 

Share:

     
 

Download our News Break app