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Soup’s on!

It’s officially my favourite food season of the year. No, I’m not talking about Halloween (although I do enjoy eating tiny bags of candy for dessert with every meal and sharing the leftovers with the five trick-or-treaters we get every year). It’s finally soup season!

I know some people celebrate soup season year-round, and more power to you, but I need a decent chill in the air before I can tuck into a steamy bowl of broth. While this year’s unseasonably warm fall put a dent in the schedule, I think (I hope) we’ve seen the last of summer temperatures. There’s even snow in the forecast this weekend.

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I’m a fan of soup because I’m lazy. It’s an easy, filling one-pot meal and a quick way to use up a lot of vegetables in one go. My CSA subscription is winding down and I have so much squash to get through.

Over the weekend, I roasted a chicken and, at the suggestion of a very smart friend, turned the drippings and veg into a blended side soup — all hail the immersion blender, to which I am a new devotee.

It tasted like vegetable gravy and I’m never going to eat mushy, overcooked carrots with my chicken again. All you need to do is add some broth to the roasting pan and blend away. Truly life affirming.

Tortellini soup is one of the easiest to make. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

Tortellini soup is one of the easiest to make. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

The second easiest soup in my repertoire is of the tortellini variety. It’s basically pasta with a thinner tomato sauce and comes together in 20 minutes.

There are infinite variations, but you can find a recipe for my version at the bottom of this email. I like to make mine with a tomato base and cheese tortellini, but a hit of cream or Italian sausage would be a great addition.

The largest section in my box of physical recipe cards is dedicated to soup and a quick scroll through my Pinterest board reveals even more soupy goodness.

I’m working my way up to recreating my babcia’s beet borscht recipe from scratch, but haven’t yet dedicated the time to making the required beef broth. I’ve made it plenty of times with bouillon cubes, but let’s be honest, that’s cheating.

Scrap stock has taken over my freezer. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

Scrap stock has taken over my freezer. (Eva Wasney / Winnipeg Free Press)

It’s a bit strange that I’ve never made beef broth before, since making stock — or are we calling it bone broth now? — has become a minor hobby of mine. I keep veg scraps in a freezer bag and once I’ve accumulated enough, I’ll throw it all in my pressure cooker on high for an hour. It’s almost too easy. The only downside is how much freezer space the project has taken up, but I suppose scraps and tubs of stock are a better use of space than ice cream bars. I suppose.

Onion ends, garlic skins, potato shavings, tomato tops, chicken carcasses: it’s all fair game. I even keep parmesan rinds to add a hit of umami. The one thing I have learned, however, is to avoid anything from the brassica family (cabbage, kale, broccoli, etc.), as they tend to add an unwelcome bitterness to the end product.

Using a pressure cooker isn’t necessary, but it’s been a revelation for me. I’m someone who tends to forget when a recipe calls to “set it and forget it.” One time I actually burnt a batch of stock. The carrots and celery turned into a crispy black carbon that took weeks of soaking and scrubbing and boiling in baking soda. Would not recommend.

Are you a fellow soup season observer? Get in touch and tell me about your favourite recipes! 

 

Eva Wasney, Arts reporter

 

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Tasty Tidbits

There’s another reason to say “Prost!” for what’s brewing at the German Society of Winnipeg — namely, beer. Bernhard Wieland, formerly of Lake of the Woods Brewing Co., Little Brown Jug and Winnipeg Brew Werks, has set up his brewing equipment in the society’s basement at 121 Charles St., and is in the process of getting all manner of lagers and ales ready to go.

The first beer, a Hallertau Pils, is available upstairs at chef Craig Guenther’s Schnitzelhaus as well as for takeaway, and more brews are imminent.

In addition to being served at the German Society, the Schnitzelhaus’s fare is available via Skip the Dishes, and the plan is to sell the beer through the food delivery service soon as well.

•••

 Baon Manila Nights, a Filipino dinner event group, has started a weekly sober tiki bar pop-up featuring inventive cuisine, mocktails and DJ music. Details are sparse and seating is limited. Follow their Instagram page for updates and to secure tickets.

•••

Baan Thai recently opened up shop in St. James. The new, locally owned Thai restaurant has an extensive menu and is available for delivery on Doordash or dine-in at their 3111 Portage Ave. location.

Recommended fare

Ben: I’ve been up to my eyeballs in books as of late — first up was Winnipeg author Patricia Robertson’s Hour of the Crab, which was the feature read for October’s Free Press Book Club meeting. It’s a collection of stories haunted by ghosts, tackling issues of human migration and climate change with subtle power. Highly recommended.

Next up I read Giller Prize winner Ian Williams’ first/recent book of non-fiction, Disorientation: Being Black in the World, in advance of my having spoken with him this week for a forthcoming piece in the Free Press to coincide with his virtual book launch on Tuesday, Nov. 2. The Toronto-based Williams, who won the Giller in 2019 for his novel Reproduction, recounts his experiences navigating a largely white world, and the ways it can be disorienting for racialized individuals. Powerful, eloquent stuff from a genuinely nice (and extremely talented) writer.

Food-wise, we recently ordered from the very-nearby Ingko Sushi, located in St. James on Portage Ave. You’d be hard-pressed to find better bang for your buck anywhere in town when it comes to fresh and delicious sushi. I think they had been closed for a bit for some repairs, so when I saw the “open” sign flashing in the window the other day I knew I had to have my fix.

Oh, and just in time for Halloween, I’ve been watching the incredibly charming Ghosts on CBC Gem. Originally a BBC One production, the show follows a couple who inherit a run-down mansion in the British countryside. After a near-death accident, Alison (played by Charlotte Ritchie) can see ghosts — namely, the couple dozen in the manor she inherited — while her partner Mike (Kiell Smith-Bynoe) cannot. Said ghosts are hilarious, a ragtag group of deceased residents that span from prehistoric times to present day. Two of the three seasons are streaming on CBC Gem so far; it’s very much worth checking out before diving into CBS’ remake of the show.

Eva: I love scary movies and am often disappointed by how lame the options are. It’s rare to find something that’s both creepy and compelling. The Invitation remains one of my favourites, followed closely by Hereditary and The Babadook. I highly recommend checking those out if you haven’t.

After watching a few duds this month, I’ve finally found a gem. His House walks the line between real-life horror and magical supernatural forces. It follows the story of a young couple fleeing war-torn South Sudan as they seek asylum in England, where things don’t go as planned. Turn off the lights, grab some Halloween candy (you have more than enough, don’t worry) and tuck in for a well-crafted fright.

What’s simmering

This is more of a look back than a sneak peek at what’s coming (but rest assured, we have some tasty holiday content in the works). We hosted our inaugural Free Press Fall Supper a few weeks ago and it was a blast. Chef Matty Neufeld put together a great spread of local food for a sold-out crowd at Whitetail Meadow. Thanks to everyone who came out and supported Harvest Manitoba — we’ll be sharing details about the donation soon.

Manitoba Music was kind enough to make us a special playlist of local artists for the event, and you can read the feature that inspired the event here.

Attendees are seated at the 2021 Free Press Fall Supper at Whitetail Meadow. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press files)

Attendees are seated at the 2021 Free Press Fall Supper at Whitetail Meadow. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press files)

Recipes and reviews

Eva’s Easy Tortellini Soup

Ingredients:

  • 1 white onion, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 cups kale, chopped
  • 1/4 cup fresh basil, cut into ribbons
  • 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
  • 3 tbsp (45 mL) tomato paste
  • 1 can (796 mL) diced tomatoes
  • 1 can (680 mL) tomato sauce
  • 5 cups (1250 mL) vegetable broth
  • 1 package (350 g) tortellini pasta
  • Parmesan to garnish

Directions:

  1. Heat oil over medium heat in a large pot. 
  2. Add onion and garlic, cook for five minutes until translucent. 
  3. Add tomato paste and cook down for two minutes.
  4. Add broth, diced tomatoes and tomato sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste. 
  5. Bring to a boil and simmer for five minutes.
  6. Add tortellini, kale and basil and simmer for 10 minutes, or until pasta is cooked through. 
  7. Garnish with parmesan.
 
 

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