Craft producers celebrate good times, uncertainty ahead Uncorked
By: Ben Sigurdson Posted: 11:15 AM CST Friday, Jan. 5, 2024 Last Modified: 11:20 AM CST Friday, Jan. 5, 2024 Updates

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 05/01/2024 (1000 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The last 12-plus months have seen some promising developments in the local craft beer, cider, wine and spirits industry. But in 2024, a number of factors could combine to rock, and potentially reshape, Manitoba’s drinks landscape.

First, the positives. After operating as a contract brewer since 2017, Devil May Care Brewing Co. opened its bricks-and-mortar brewery on Fort Street in December 2022, and was joined in late 2023 by Brat Cat Mead.

Also opening in December 2022 was Brandon’s Section 6 Brewing Co., doubling the number of craft breweries in the Wheat City.

Good Neighbour Brewing Co. opened its own physical brewery in early 2023 after brewing out of Oxus Brewing Co. since 2021.

In Gimli, Interlake Brewing Co.’s taproom and rooftop patio opened in July, taking over the space formerly occupied by Whitecaps Restaurant & Lounge. (Cans of Interlake’s core beers are still being made at Oxus in Winnipeg until on-site equipment is installed later this year.)

And Dauphin’s Obsolete Brewing Co. opened in September; cans of Obselete’s beers are now appearing in Winnipeg Liquor Marts and beer vendors.

Little Brown Jug continued to expand production at its William Avenue brewery, and it’s a good thing — in September, True North Sports & Entertainment announced it would be adding local craft beer from Little Brown Jug, Trans Canada Brewing Co. and Kilter Brewing Co. to the drinks lineup at Canada Life Centre for Winnipeg Jets’ games, concerts and other events.

Wooden Gate Cider, previously only available directly from the Pilot Mound cidery, is now available at a trio of private wine stores (Kenaston Wine Market, De Nardi Wines and G. J. Andrews Food & Wine Shoppe) as well as on tap at the Common at The Forks Market.

And the coming days will see local wine/cider/mead/cooler producer Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co. open the doors to a new, bigger facility at 483 Berry St. The new digs should prove to be a big step up both in terms of taproom size as well as production capacity.

But look beyond those positive developments over the past year or so and there’s cause for concern.

Local craft beer sales in the province trended down in 2023 for the first time thanks to a perfect storm of issues. Customer selection certainly played a role in local craft beer sales taking a hit, with many drinkers turning to the wildly popular hard seltzers and ready-to-drink canned cocktails, and others (particularly younger consumers) choosing to drink less, or not at all.

Also impacting local craft beer sales was the Liquor Marts “Hot Buys” program, a temporary-markdown promotion on products that were discounted by producers.

In 2023, Manitoba Liquor & Lotteries matched discounts and the subsidizing of product markdowns in the Hot Buys program, resulting in even deeper discounts on beers (and other products) primarily made by large, multinational producers. And while MLL has since stopped the discount-matching practice, the hit in sales for locals was significant.

As is the case in almost every area of life, inflation is playing its part, with the cost of ingredients, cans, labels and more continuing to rise.

And don’t forget about the Canada Emergency Business Account (CEBA) loans — businesses have to start repaying the loans, which were offered by the federal government during the pandemic, by Jan. 18.

Some movement is already afoot. In November it was reported that Brandon’s Black Wheat Brewing Co. is up for sale, and industry contacts I’ve spoken with have said at least a couple other breweries are unofficially on (or are going on) the market.

Don’t be surprised to see at least a few local breweries and contract brewers trade hands — or close up shop for good.

In other words, there’s never been a more important time to support your local craft producer.

Wines of the week

Pure Est. 2020 Monastrell Organic (Valencia, Spain — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Inky purple in colour, this organic Monastrell (also known as Mataro in Australia or Mourvèdre in France) brings plum, black licorice, black cherry, resin and spice on the nose.

It’s dry and full-bodied, with fairly plush (but not sweet) dark-fruit flavours (think plum, blueberry, blackberry), black tea notes and a peppery bite that comes with medium-grippy tannins and a modest finish.

Drink now with steak or other grilled meats. 3.5/5

Lopez de Haro 2019 Crianza (Rioja, Spain — around $23, private wine stores)

This Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano Spanish red blend has soft plum, raspberry, meaty and tomato notes on the nose, with a dash of white pepper to boot.

Dry and medium-plus-bodied, that balance of ripe, slightly stewed dark fruit and savoury elements work well together, while 18 months in barrels (plus time aging in the bottle) brings hints of lacquer and spice.

Drinking very well right now and very good for the price, as are all the reds in our market from Lopez de Haro. Available at most private wine stores. 4/5

Casa Santos Lima 2019 Quid Pro Quo Reserva (Alentejano, Portugal — $40.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This deep, inky-purple Portuguese red is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Petit Verdot grapes, and aromatically is a fascinating, complex blend of plum, vanilla, cracked pepper, black cherry, savoury herbs and meaty notes.

It’s full-bodied, dry and concentrated, with ripe dark berry and cherry flavours wound tightly in peppery, black tea notes that come with grippy, slightly woody tannins and an underlying savoury note.

At 14.5 per cent alcohol, the finish is long and warm; drink this delicious bruiser now after some aerating in a glass (and with roasted meats), or cellar for four to seven years. 4.5/5

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson