It’s worth the yuletide trip Steinbach knows how to serve up the festive seasonal cheer By: Gord Mackintosh Posted: 3:40 PM CST Friday, Dec. 6, 2024

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This article was published 06/12/2024 (584 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Schnetke. Schmauntfat. Schinkjefkeesch. Ahh, Schteinbach!

And biryani, bibimbap and bubble tea. Plus, a brew pub!

Steinbach’s diversifying population now bestows globe-inspired eats and treats.

And after banning beer sales in 1950, Steinbach recently loosened its liquor laws. Margie quipped, “Steinbach brought the stein back — it’s ‘Steinback!’ Get it?”

Tourists might disbelieve Steinbach’s slogan “It’s worth the trip,” because Manitoba’s third-largest city doesn’t feature any lake, river, casino, amusement park or famous landmark. To symbolize its many car dealerships, folks did erect a giant Rolls-Royce, but good luck finding the Rolls-Royce dealership. And residents built an exceptional aquatic centre, a museum with a fully-functioning windmill (the only one in Canada), golf courses, BMX track, zip line and two popular hills. Margie observed, “There aren’t hills around, so when there is one, folks really go for it.”

But here’s why it’s really worth the trip: those flavours, plus festive charm.

Big bustling Christmas craft shows start by early November. Marvel at rows of décor options and myriad baubles for ears, necks and trees. I’ve never seen so many baubles. This is the Bauble Belt.

Drive minutes southward listening to good ol’ AM 1250 to wrap yourself in the best Christmas songs. Discover delicious organic farm-fresh curds at Stony Brook Creamery — Margie’s favourite.

Nearby, Karl and Brady Schoenrock welcome visitors to Kismet Creek Farm. Get acquainted with 164 farm animals from 14 species. Brady’s T-shirt says “I’m literally a chicken tender.”

Across Road 35E, CD Trees epitomizes the ideal Christmas-tree farm. Hark, the sounds of togetherness: “Too short! Get that tree way back there!” “Too skinny. This one?” “Too bushy. See the pine two kilometres over there?” And that was just Margie and me.

It all resolves thanks to fire pits, sleigh rides, Santa, hot dogs and a gift shop selling the farm’s superior jams — and more baubles. A circling toy train clacks and toots above families delighting in Christmas cookies and, yes, togetherness.

We cut a spruce so small, it snugly fit inside our vehicle. Kinda. What an air-freshener! I told Margie, “Let’s leave it in here.”

Steinbach illuminates about 110 trees with 36,000 lights, including city hall’s big beauts. As Canada’s most-generous city, folks donate funds to illuminate even more trees around the hospital and fund red tree-shaped ornaments hung from streetlights to honour named loved ones. Honouring, say, “Grandpa Friesen” unwittingly recognizes 5,000 people.

As another health-care fundraiser, there’s a winter-solstice overnight relay called the Longest Night Run. Run or walk. Start time: 4:29 p.m. End time: 8:20 a.m. Given my shape, I’ll register once nights get longer.

Amid Mennonite Heritage Village light displays, jostle with hot chocolate aboard horse-drawn hayrides, try out some kick-sledding and roast marshmallows around weekend bonfires.

MJ’s Kafé is iconic for Mennonite dishes, plus waffles with warm-vanilla- and maple-flavoured “famous waffle sauce” and MJ’s hash-browns. Merch includes “OhBaYo!” hats. This local saying means “Oh but yes!” — apparently what Steinbachers exclaim to fundraisers.

Sky-Hy Restaurant — on the ground floor — creates sumptuous farmer-sausage breakfast skillets. Full orders: $15.49. Half orders: $13.49. Guess what I got? I asked the server, “How’d you carry that?”

A Main Street vending machine dispenses pizza! Damian and Jodi Penner offer farmer sausage on pizza — and on nachos — at Rocco’s Pizzeria. Bigg Smoak BBQ creates great cornbread, ribs and coleslaw — and should avoid spelling bees. Among other international restaurants, a website claims “Doener Grill Express is one of the best European restaurants in North America.” At the other marketing extreme, Viet House Restaurant hides inside a condo’s back door with no signage. Oops, I ruined the secret.

Two Christmas décor-packed greenhouse eateries border Steinbach. Oakridge Garden Centre serves creative sandwiches, salads and eye-catching cranberry cheesecake. At Sunshine Greenhouse & Chinos Bistro, women crafting wreaths shouted, “Join us!” I replied, “Mine wouldn’t turn out anywhere near round.” Bistro staff served pleasantly plump stuffed mushrooms — and pleasantly plump stuffed Margie and Gord.

On its check-out counter, Main Bread & Butter lays out about 40 blocks of Bothwell mild cheddar, plus Squeakers. Near its deli, Manitoban and European products lead to yummy discoveries, including locally-revered Edgar’s veal “cutlettes,” farmer-sausage buns and five brands of farmer sausage. Avoid trouble; never publicly say one is best.

Old Church Bakery means cherry-raisin-coconut shortbread Christmas Bars. And excitement builds for a special arrival. ‘Tis the season for… peppernuts! From Bake World, these widely available tiny gingery cookies are easily enjoyed 50 at time, and easily mistaken for dog treats — a sure source of Mennonite mischief.

Then it’s New Year’s Cookies. Try Sobeys’ recipe. Just as peppernuts aren’t nuts, New Year’s Cookies aren’t cookies. They’re raisin fritters. More Mennonite mischief.

A surprise: Guinness went on tap at Sawney Bean’s in 2007. You’re thinking, “Hasn’t Guinness been brewed since 1759?” Another surprise? The Public Brewhouse and Gallery. Alexandra pours a standout red IPA, maple porter and cream ale. We met friendly guests including Manitoba’s satirist extraordinaire, Andrew Unger, who says he regularly enjoys the camaraderie. He quips, “Folks think I’m the owner.”

And if visitors stumble after a pint, again I’d say, “It’s worth the trip.”

gordmackintosh9@gmail.com