Wonders of the Whiteshell Boreal landscapes beckon with a multitude of wonders
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In May of this year, Whiteshell Provincial Park, along with many others throughout the province, was closed due to wildfires.
Campgrounds, trails and businesses were off limits and permanent residents were evacuated. It was a move that most Manitobans have never seen before, and it served as a wakeup call, reminding us all of just how valuable these wild spaces are.
With the Whiteshell now reopened, it’s time to reacquaint ourselves with this 2,700 square kilometre landscape set on the rugged Precambrian Shield, with its deep, dark forests and wide-open lakes.
There’s a little something for everyone here including hiking, canoeing, mountain biking, camping, boating and angling.
The towns of Falcon Lake and West Hawk Lake have all the little luxuries — hotels and vacation rentals, restaurants, gas stations, convenience stores and gift shops. These are the pockets of civilization, but for the most part, nature owns Whiteshell Provincial Park.
Here’s our Top Ten on how to enjoy it this summer.
1. Houseboat magic
I’m moored in a calm alcove with a multimillion-dollar view. Towering spruces draw the shoreline, rocky outcropping grab the setting sun and there’s a picturesque island in the distance. To complete the scene, a bald eagle flies low then rests on the tallest spruce, as if on cue. It’s easy to feel I have the entire park to myself, here on the deck of my Voyageur Houseboat. Based in Pinawa, three luxury houseboats await your rental, equipped with kayaks, to make exploring easy and nights ridiculously comfortable.
Voyageur Houseboats photo Drift off to sleep in a quiet bay in a Voyageur Houseboat. These luxury accommodations launch from Pinawa and also offer evening tours-some with charcuterie.
2. Be a bird nerd
Dozens of hiking trails cut through this vast park and that makes it easy to spot some of the province’s most beautiful birds. Along McGillivray Falls Trail, get ready for warbler wonderland including Nashville, magnolia, mourning, chestnut-sided and Canada warblers. Sparrows also seem to like this trail. Look for chipping and song sparrows and listen for the unmistakable voice of the white-throated sparrow. Stop at the picturesque Long Pond to see sedge wren, sora and Wilson’s snipe.
Shel Zolkewich photo Whiteshell Provincial Park is a birder’s dream. Watch for all manner of birds, from majestic bald eagles to cheery American goldfinches (pictured here).
3. Step into Indigenous teachings
The Bannock Point Petroforms echo the shapes of humans and snakes, birds and turtles, all carefully arranged in moss-covered rocks. Diane Maytwayashing knows them well. The Anishinaabe knowledge keeper takes visitors on guided walks of the sacred site, sharing stories of the teachings and healings that continue to this day through ceremony and song. Visitors learn about the original name of the site — Manidoo-Abi — that loosely translates as “where the spirit sits.” Book your visit at whiteshellpetroforms.com.
Travel Manitoba photo Book an experience with Diane Maytwayashing at the Bannock Point Petroforms to learn about these ancient arrangements of stones in Whiteshell Provincial Park.
4. Stop at The Spicy Radish
Head to Whitemouth for the hot spinach dip, cheeky fish tacos — made with pickerel cheeks — and the signature Spicy Radish burger with zippy mayo, pickles and jalapeño jack cheese. The Vegetarian Kidney Beans plate is a vegan delight with red kidney beans, Indian spices, tomatoes and onions served on rice.
5. Swing a club
The Falcon Lake Golf Course is dearly loved by all golfers. The fairways are lined by thick forest, making them appear narrow, while Falcon Creek adds a water hazard to nine holes. It’s challenging but downright gorgeous. And your reward for a great round is cocktail in the bright and beautiful clubhouse.
6. Make it a picnic
An evening at Seven Sisters starts with a visit to Jennifer’s Picnic, where Chef Jozef and Nathalie have been serving excellent eats for 30 years. There are some exotic offerings on the menu, including escargot and a kangaroo burger, but the standout for me is the wiener schnitzel. Take your pick from two or three pieces (always choose three) of delicately breaded pork tenderloin that get served with a side salad and mashed potatoes. Jennifer’s is a food truck with a comfortable covered patio for dining. It’s cash only, and there’s an ATM on site.
Shel Zolkewich photo Nathalie and Chef Jozef cheerfully serve mouth-watering wiener schnitzel from Jennifer’s Picnic in Seven Sisters. Grab your meals and head to Whitemouth Fall Provincial Park for dinner and a show.
7. Feast at the falls
You might want to take your dinner from Jennifer’s Picnic to the nearby Whitemouth Falls Provincial Park. This vastly underrated stop is the site of the confluence of the Whitemouth and the Winnipeg rivers, where the water swooshes over ancient rocks in a gentle fall. You’ll also get a great view of Seven Sisters Falls hydro-electric dam.
8. Shop a little
Take home a souvenir from your time in the Whiteshell with a visit to one of the charming gift shops. Check out The Laughing Loon or The Sandcastle Shop at Falcon Lake or browse western-themed goodies and rustic décor at Falcon Beach Ranch. At the Owl Wing Coffee House at Falcon Trails Resort, check out a curated collection of handmade gifts.
9. Rock hunting anyone?
Until the beginning of September, Inverness Falls Resort is hosting a rock scavenger hunt along the Trans-Canada Trail. Spot one of the 50 hand-painted rocks, snap a photo and send it to info@invernessfallsresort.com with the subject line Scavenger Hunt. You could win a painted rock by local wildlife artist Diane Lund. P.S. Please leave the rocks in place so everyone can enjoy them.
10. Surf?
Give river surfing at try at Sturgeon Falls, where the Whiteshell River meets Nutimik Lake in the northern reaches of the park. The rapids at the falls can run from a half-metre to 2.5-metres tall when water levels are high. Confession: I’ve never done this but I have watched, and it is high adrenaline to be sure. Introductory lessons are highly recommended. Reach out to bradfriesen.com
Shel Zolkewich photo Moody mornings at Otter Falls.