Oaky, not so dokey when weather is chokey

WINE trends come and go — most countries, regions and grapes have enjoyed their 15 minutes in the spotlight at some point or another over the last couple decades. On the other hand, some grapes, regions and wines have fallen way out of fashion. For every Pi­not Noir that enjoyed increased sales follow­ing the release of the 2004 movie Sideways, there was a Merlot languishing on a dusty shelf somewhere.

And then there's Chardonnay, a polarizing grape if there ever was one -- while it has more than its share of fans, those who don't like it typically despise it. I get the impression that Chardonnay is also the basis for a lot of resentment toward white wine in general -- many red wine drinkers I've spoken to have been turned off of whites by a big Australian or American Chardonnay (historically the most common culprits of over-oaking the wine).

I can't get behind the Anything But Chardonnay (ABC) movement -- I'm a big fan of Chard in almost all of its incarnations, even when the oak is big and bold (and I'm in the right mood). But a full-bodied, buttery Chardonnay is one of the worst white wines for beating the heat in the summer.

So when heading out to your patio, your backyard, a friend's place for a barbecue or just roasting in your non-air-conditioned apartment, think of the lighter, crisp wines that can really hit the spot. Chilled right down, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, German or Canadian Riesling, Alsatian Gewurztraminer, and so forth really do the trick.

One of summer's most popular white grape varieties is undoubtedly Pinot Grigio, and the McWilliam's 2009 Hanwood Estate Pinot Grigio (South Eastern Australia -- $13.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is an excellent example. Stone fruit, mineral, melon, pear and red apple notes all come through on the nose, with honey and firm peach and tangerine flavours showing beautifully on the palate. There's a hint of residual sugar and some body to this white that provides more roundness than most of its counterparts. McWilliam's has done a great job of taking a typically light, one-dimensional grape and making it truly delicious -- it's my pick of the week. Try well-chilled with mild Asian dishes, light cheeses or ripe berries.

Another fresh, crisp white wine perfect for summer drinking is Pinot Blanc. The White Bear 2008 Pinot Blanc (Okanagan Valley, B.C. -- $13.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is unoaked, which certainly doesn't equate to un-flavourful. Lemon candy, green apple, pear and mineral notes on the nose are attractive, and translate well on the dry, light-bodied palate. Not overly complicated, but very refreshing (with 15 per cent of sales going to marine and rainforest conservation efforts). Drink with pickerel, grilled shrimp, or pasta in an oil- or cream-based sauce.

The jewel of France's Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc is a white grape that didn't take off on this side of the Atlantic until South Africa started producing it in exportable quantities. Like the previous two wines, the Kanu 2008 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch, South Africa -- $11.76, Liquor Marts and beyond) is unoaked but barrel fermented and aged on the lees, resulting in complex vanilla, spice and yeast notes on the nose to complement the mango and nectarine notes. Ripe red apple, tangerine and honeydew melon flavours deliver on the medium-bodied, slightly creamy palate. With great depth of flavour for the price, the Kanu should do well with salmon or lighter curry or pork dishes.

Of course, an ABC-er can always go for a nice white blend for crisp, fresh flavours, particularly from Italy, Spain, or Portugal: Vinho Verde, Soave, Frascati, and more. The word Frascati reminds me of the word "fresh" -- fitting, then, that the La Musa 2009 Frascati (Frascati, Italy -- around $12, private wine stores) is just that. Chalky minerality, lime, green herbs, and a salty, nutty note that reminds me of dry sherry all come through on the nose. A light-bodied, almost-effervescent white, the La Musa is austere and slightly tart, offering light citrus and green apple notes with mild acidity and a short, clean finish. Chilled right down, it would do well with light salads, chilled seafood (think shrimp ring) or toasted nuts on a very hot day.

ABC-ers should take note that Chardonnay has come a long way from the days of bottles of rich, buttery, oaky wine. Thankfully, many winemakers and now producing balanced Chards in a variety of styles: unoaked, fermented on the yeast, and so forth.

uncorked@mts.net twitter.com/thegrapenut

Wine website of the week:

New York Times -- Wine Talk

(http://tinyurl.com/nytimes-abc)

The great Frank Prial talks about

the ABC movement way back

in 1995.

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition August 7, 2010 F4