High mileage wears down suspension bushings

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This article was published 26/07/2013 (4470 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

QUESTION: I have a 2008 Acura TSX with 130,000 km on it. When I had my last maintenance done I was told the front compliance bushings will have to be replaced before the next safety inspection is due in August. I was quoted parts are about $270 and 3.6 hours labour with a total of about $800. I’ve never had bushings replaced in any other car I have owned. In your opinion is this price a little steep or about right for this work. Marie

ANSWER: The labour times look about right to replace front suspension bushings and then perform a four-wheel alignment on the car, which would be necessary after the suspension work. However, using your numbers, if I take the parts away from the $800 estimate, that still leaves $530 worth of labour. Since they quoted 3.6 hours for the repair, this works out to $147 per hour for the repair. Most dealerships are in the $100 to $130 dollar per hour rate depending on the type of work being done. I would think your repair shop is likely in that range, too, to remain competitive, so there must be some miscommunication in what is being done for this repair or they are charging at higher rates and have included taxes.

As for parts, the suspension bushings are available separately from the aftermarket and would be less costly, while in the dealership, the complete control arm that holds the bushing is replaced, which I would guess is the situation here. I am surprised the bushings need replacing at this mileage, although this problem does seem to be fairly common on the Honda Civic and Acura TSX cars. On most cars, suspension bushings need replacement on high-mileage vehicles or older vehicles where the rubber has become hard and deteriorated.

QUESTION: My 2006 Toyota Tacoma became hard to steer last summer. My Toyota mechanic decided the pump had malfunctioned. I opted for a used pump, but before I purchased it, the steering seemed to right itself. Four months later it suddenly seized up. I bought a used pump with 65,000 km recorded on it. It lasted two weeks. To shorten this sad story, I am now on my fourth pump. The lines have been purged and new fluid installed, but it now has also become lazy. Can you help me? Bruce

ANSWER: Perhaps the problem is caused by something else. One of the problems I have come across on other Toyota models is a seized u-joint in the steering shaft between the steering column and the steering rack. My experience with these is that the problem is not always there, but can cause the steering to become stiff during a corner or only at certain temperatures. They don’t seem to be consistent in how they act. I would disconnect the shaft from the steering gear and feel the u-joint motion by hand. If it is rough or stiff, replace the shaft.

The steering rack could also cause this problem. An internal leak in the rack seals would cause fluid to bypass the hydraulic piston so it acts like there is no assist. There won’t be an external leak with this type of problem. To diagnose whether the problem is a faulty pump that isn’t producing pressure or an internal leak in the steering rack, a steering system analyzer (a pressure gauge with an inline shutoff valve) can be connected in the pressure hose line. With the engine running, momentarily close the shutoff valve and the pressure should rise to about 1,200 to 1,500 PSI. If it does, the pump is working and the rack is at fault. If the pressure doesn’t rise, the pump is faulty. I suspect you may have a problem with the steering rack instead of the pump, but be sure to check the shaft u-joint first.

Jim Kerr is a mechanic, instructor of automotive technology, freelance journalist and member of the Automobile Journalists’ Association of Canada.

kerr.jim@sasktel.net