A mouthful of magnificent

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This article was published 24/12/2014 (4259 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

If there was any doubt about today’s major trend, two of the best restaurants reviewed during the past year specialize in tapas, a.k.a. small plates. Oddly enough, what they also share is out-of-the-ordinary locations, and a smaller clientele than they deserve.

 

Top pick of the year is TAPASTRY, which offers a lovely view of the golf course (with frequent deer-sightings) and a menu of so-called small plates — so-called, since some could double as entrées. Two of the best, for instance is the generous serving of flavourful strip loin strips with asiago mashed potatoes and a wild mushroom ragout, and the four nicely charred lamb chops with a goat cheese soufflé. Other rock-solid hits include four massive, magnificent prawns wrapped in double-smoked Tyrolean bacon; bison meatballs in a luscious wild mushroom sauce; and the pate-like, gluten-free chocolate oblivion with chocolate sauce. 620 Niakwa Rd. (Niakwa Country Club), 204-256-7326.

 

Unlike most airport restaurants, THE BLUE MARBLE could hold its own anywhere, both in elegance and food, and tapas (served after five) are specialties here, too. Tops among them is the addictive cavena risotto — a kind of oat dotted with porcini mushrooms and shavings of Parmesan, paired with seared pork belly. Other top choices include the lamb duo — part chops, part shank braised in espresso, with mashed potatoes; rare sous-vide duck breast with lentils; tuna carpaccio with (among others) spicy green beans in an anchovy vinaigrette; and a stunning chocolate raspberry tart. 1979 Wellington Ave. (Grand Winnipeg Airport Hotel), 204-505-0145.

 

The PALM ROOM — the epitome of gilded grandeur — can also be boiler-room noisy, but the food is soothing. As well as its renowned Sunday brunch, there are meals of comforting, down-to-earth classics — tender pot roast in red wine gravy, a perfectly roasted half chicken with stuffing, juicy veal meat loaf with tomato gravy, and a wonderful three-cheese lasagna. Other greats are the AAA New York steak and the mousse-like chicken livers under a creme brulée-like crunch. 222 Broadway (Fort Garry Hotel), 204-942-8251.

 

FOOD EVOLUTION’s heavenly views of a meandering pond and majestic trees offer food for the soul, but there’s fine fodder for the body as well. The eclectic menu ranges from the steamed house-made smoked beef sandwich and flaky buttermilk biscuits to smoked duck salad with cubes of pear and Trappist cheese; lightly curried, honey-sweet wings with fabulous pickled deep-fried green beans; and such entrées as crisp pork schnitzel with mellow sauerkraut and spatzle and a pickerel fish fry with mashed potatoes and bacon-dotted fried brussels sprouts. 2015 Main Street (Kildonan Park), 204-284-7275

 

These days, the chairs at GASTHAUS GUTENBERGER have a little more sag but nothing else seems changed since new owner Jereme Labelle took over, and the hearty German specialties are as delicious as ever. Savoury soups and the terrific house-made bread still come with such entrees as house-made bratwurst, seven kinds of schnitzels and rinderrouladen beef slice stuffed with bacon, pickles and onions. Gut-busting buffets are offered at noon on Thursday, Friday and (the biggest) Sunday. 2483 Portage Ave., 204-888-3133

 

THE TALLEST POPPY is Talia Syrie’s triumphant return, offering (unlike her original cafe) dinners, as well as lunches and brunches. Superbly crunchy fried chicken — with mashed potatoes and collard greens at dinner, or with authentic Belgian waffles at breakfast; slow cooked beef brisket as dinner entrée, or as chicken fried steak at brunch. Red River Cereal is raised to creamy, soul-satisfying goodness and buttermilk biscuits with gravy are a surprise success. Note, also, partner-mixologist Steve Ackerman’s amazing caesar topped by a blend of tomatilla, poblano peppers and cilantro. 103 Sherbrook (Sherbrook Hotel), 204-219-8777.

 

THE MARION STREET EATERY offers a roster of superior cafe classics. Sadly, the risotto with Parmesan and prosciutto, and the shrimp in garlicky cream sauce have been dropped, but there are still such excellent options as mushrooms stuffed with Italian sausage, cheddar and cream cheese; great onion soup; mac & cheese with bacon and broccoli; a richly beefy burger with bacon, cheddar and mushrooms and the grilled Cuban sandwich layered with roast pork, ham, Gruyère and pickles. 393 Marion St. (Marion Hotel), 204-233-2843.

 

There’s never a shortage of excellent Asian restaurants, and the most difficult part is having to select only a few. But here goes:

 

SAM PO offers many of the same dim sum as Noodle Express, its parent across the street, most notably, anything with shrimp and exquisitely delicate pastries, among them a superb egg tart. But this branch also has a 200-item dinner menu with such outstanding dishes as the lettuce wrap (to fill with diced roast duck and crunchy veggies); succulent braised prawns in light tomato sauce; stir-fried green beans with pork and the salty-sweet flavour of olive paste; stir-fried pea tips with seafood; and the deep fried lobster roll in pastry. 277 Rupert Ave., 204-691-1213.

 

FLYING NOODLE’s eponymous house-made noodles are tender and good, but there’s more excitement in some of the other, real-deal Szechuan dishes: salty-sweet little ribs with fried potato cubes; pork belly with pickled garlic, vinegar and chili oil; shredded pork with veggies and crunchy cloud ears in a tongue-tingling garlic chili sauce; cumin-spiked lamb kebabs; shredded cold potatoes with vinegar sauce and Szechuan peppercorns; and crisply fried rice cakes. 164 Isabel St., 204-505-3596.

 

KIWA offers loads of charm and delicious Korean food, including such relatively rare items as the texturally delightful kimmari — deep-fried tempura-battered seaweed rolled around japchae noodles — and dense, jujub-like ddukbokki rice cakes in a rich cream sauce with bacon, red pepper and broccoli. Equally delicious are the omelette-light haemul pajeon pancake with bits of octopus; bulgogi marinated beef with onions; and a splendid gamjatang pork bone soup with potatoes and veggies that is fiery red with chili paste but not blistering. 2077 Pembina Hwy., 204-261-3131.

 

KARAHI’s appetizers are mostly delicious, but the standout is the tandoori mixed grill of marinated chicken, shrimp and fish. There are also such excellent entrées as Goan fish curry in a coconut milk sauce; Muglai shrimp in a velvety cream sauce with cashews; a vibrantly spiced keema mutter stir-fry of ground lamb with peas; lamb dalfrezi in a thick onion and tomato sauce; and the smoky dal makhni of lentils and kidney beans. 754 St. Mary’s Rd., 204-691-2070.

 

marion.warhaft@freepress.mb.ca