Pedestal lavatory inexpensive, easy to install

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This article was published 15/06/2003 (8189 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

IF you want your bathroom to look, feel and be more spacious, consider a pedestal lavatory. A pedestal lavatory is relatively inexpensive (compared to a vanity cabinet and countertop), and rather easy to install. That’s the plus. The downside is you might lose precious storage space by eliminating a vanity cabinet.

If storage isn’t a problem, go for it. If you have a wall-hung sink, you will find a pedestal lavatory far more attractive. But, keep in mind that changing from a cabinet and counter to a pedestal lavatory can be complicated. Changes might have to be made to the framing, plumbing and flooring — to name a few. It really is more sensible to change from a cabinet to a pedestal lavatory when a complete remodel is in the offing, but this isn’t a must.

Pedestal lavatories can be simple and small — fitting tightly into tiny corners. Or, you can find one that has a wide-body sink section. Whether you want sweeping and curved, square and simple or tiny and compact, there is a pedestal sink to fill your needs. Although there are several sizes and styles to choose from, they all have a couple of things in common:

* The sink is connected to the wall with bolts, screws or lags.

* The pedestal is connected to the floor with bolts, screws or lags.

And they usually come in two pieces, for easy installation. The sink and the pedestal are separate from one another. This makes installation easier.

The key to easy installation is making sure that the area surrounding the pedestal is properly prepared. For this you need to pay close attention to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

* It is important to install a solid wood block in the wall between the studs — flush behind the wallboard and centered behind the sink section. A 2×10 or 2×12 will work well. Depending on the stud layout, your bathroom, and the size of the sink, two blocks might have to be installed into the wall. This is followed by installation of a sheet-rock patch.

* The water lines normally don’t have to be moved, but if the plumber didn’t do a good job originally, this is the time to correct his error. Remember, when you have a pedestal lavatory, all the plumbing can be seen.

* The drain line should be centred between and below the water lines. The height isn’t terribly important because a drain extension can be used in the trap system. It is a good idea, though, to keep everything closer to the sink than to the floor. This will better conceal things.

* If a vanity is removed, be aware that there might be wall repairs and a floor patch needed. With many floors it might mean an entire finish floor replacement (the vanity usually is installed before the floor, thus there’ll be no flooring under the vanity).

With the backing inside the wall and the wallboard patched, and with the flooring in good condition and the plumbing centred and ready to go, start assembling parts:

* First, install the faucet and drain onto the sink.

* Next, install the p-trap system onto the sink drain. Leave the fittings loose.

* Mount the pedestal to the floor. Use two screws or lag bolts for this process. These should never be tight. A very loose connection here is desirable.

* Next, the sink is placed on the pedestal and bolted to the wall and water lines are connected.

* Finally, the j-bend portion of the p-trap is connected to the p-trap and to the wall — and all fittings are tightly secured.

Once the sink and pedestal are installed, check the sink to make sure that all the connections are water-tight. Close the drain and fill the sink with water. The pressure created by a full bowl will cause a leak if even a tiny pinhole exists.

Most sinks have three faucet holes, but they can differ in spacing. There are two basic faucet-hole configurations: four-inch (standard) and eight-inch (widespread).

These are known as centre-set distances (four-inch centre-set and eight-inch centre-set). There are some sinks that have only one hole (for a single-lever faucet), but these are rare. Single-lever faucets usually are offered with a base plate that works with a four-inch centre-set. Keep in mind, however, that a widespread three-hole configuration is a great base for use with a single-hole faucet, a hand shower and a soap dispenser. The faucet-sink combination must be carefully considered — long before installation takes place.

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