Armani offers new challenges in bloomers, stirrup pants

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This article was published 06/03/2002 (8614 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

MILAN, Italy — Giorgio Armani is the undisputed king of the Milan runway, the man who with his classic, tailored look put Italian ready-wear on the international fashion map several decades ago.

But next winter, the king’s wish will be a hard command for his multitude of dedicated subjects to follow: Bloomers and stirrup pants are a true fashion challenge.

For his second-line Emporio collection presented Monday, Armani sent out a bevy of young girls in baggy velvet shorts banded around the thigh in knitted fabric. By day, these yesteryear sport items were paired with the new single-buttoned jacket and a classic male singlet. By night, they came matched with sparkling tops and the same singlet in shimmering satin.

Worn with silk ankle socks, they were a test even for the long-stemmed models.

“You have to be very tall for this look,” Armani conceded in a chat with reporters after the show presented in the theatre of his new headquarters carved out of a former chocolate factory.

To a front-row guest lineup that included Italian actress Sophia Loren and U.S. actor Charlie Sheen, Armani presented his signature collection and another trouser trial. Here the recurring element of the show was the stirrup strap, which fixed slim pants, baggy harem pants, sheer leggings and long bag skirts.

While all girls who have worn leggings know how to negotiate the stirrup strap, the bag skirt stitched together at the hem with holes for the feet and the straps is more of an enigma. The maestro proved he had faith in its agility by pairing it with running shoes.

Just as in the Emporio collection, the trouser theme was filled out by beautiful jackets in double-breasted tweeds, lovely cardigan jackets in soft velvet, romantic chiffon dresses, and chic practical gabardine overcoats and trenches.

Evening was sparkling as a Christmas tree in shimmering sequined and pearl-embroidered gowns, twinkling jackets over velvet harem pants, and glistening tops over satin bag skirts.

The Armani palette for next winter is black and grey in graphic patterns, plus natural shades of sand pink, rock taupe and burnt-wood brown.

To underline the daring spirit of the collection, Armani sent his models down the runway in small leather helmets, goggles, and leather flying jackets — a tribute to Amelia Earhart, the first female aviator.

— Associated Press

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