Prepare lacquer finish before painting

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Dear Debbie: I want to purchase a free-standing electric fireplace (mantel and heating unit). They all seem to be made of fiberboard, stained a different colour of wood and finished with a lacquer or plastic finish. All my furniture is dark walnut and I don't like the look of a dark fireplace mantel. I want to paint it taupe to match the walls. Can I do this? Will a general primer work? --E-mail. Dear Reader: Yes, you can paint over a lacquer finish, but you must prepare it properly. Lightly sand the mantel to dull the shiny surface and then apply high- adhesive primer and let this dry overnight. Then apply two coats of your favorite taupe. Protect the surface with a water-based varnish. Dear Debbie: My kitchen is in desperate need of an update. It is early 80s gold and brown. I'd like to do the counters in a granite look finish to camouflage the pits in them, but I don't want them to be too dark. I'm thinking of painting the cupboards a warm white, leaving a small wood trim at the top, and would like some green in the counter finish. Do you have any colour hints? How should I do the counter? Thank you for your time. --Lana G., Calgary Dear Lana: Painting a countertop is a great short term solution, but over time it will chip. Always use a cutting board, and wipe up water spills. Preparation for painting your counter will differ depending on the type of paint you use. If you can find melamine paint, which is available in good paint stores, then you do not need to prime. Otherwise, sand the counter lightly and apply a high adhesive primer that is meant for slippery surfaces -- it will state this on the label. As for colour, start with a black base coat. (Don't worry, only a bit of this will show by the end.) Pick three more colours, a brown, gray and green. Using a sea sponge, sponge the colours over the surface one at a time. Cover most of the black with the brown and gray and finish with random touches of green. Stand back and look at your progress. You can always add more paint. Leave the surface to dry overnight and then apply four layers of acrylic varnish. Dear Debbie: I checked the FAQ section on your Web site to see if it was possible to paint kitchen appliances. You suggested spraying instead of brushing or rolling. What are the downfalls. What type of paint should I use? Any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks. --Chris J., e-mail Dear Chris : There is enamel spray paint, some that is clearly labeled as appliance paint, available for resurfacing your appliances. Spraying will give you the most uniform, smooth and professional finish. But you do need to take precautions when spray painting. Work in a well-ventilated area, outdoors on a calm day is best, and wear goggles and a mask. Protect anything that you don't want painted as the paint becomes airborne. Rollering will sometimes leave air bubbles. A paint brush is worse than a roller -- unless you want the look of brushed steel, which is very popular right now, and not difficult to do. Have your paint store tint high adhesive primer a medium gray. After cleaning your surfaces, apply the tinted primer with a roller and let dry. Then make a silver metallic glaze with metallic paint and glazing liquid and apply this sparingly over the base coat with a hard bristle brush. You want to see fine brush lines. Make sure your brush strokes move in one direction. The tinted primer and glaze should be close in tone. Protect your work with varnish. PHOTO The Painted House column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Send letters to Ask Debbie, c/o The Painted House, PO Box 425, Station Westmount, Westmount, Que. H3Z 2T5, or e-mail Debbie at askdebbie@painted-house.com. We regret that only letters chosen for publication can be answered personally. Check Debbie's Web site www.painted-house.com. and watch Debbie Travis' Painted House aired daily on WTN. For more ideas look for Debbie's newest book, Living and Dining Rooms.

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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 21/04/2002 (8672 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Dear Debbie: I want to purchase a free-standing electric fireplace (mantel and heating unit). They all seem to be made of fiberboard, stained a different colour of wood and finished with a lacquer or plastic finish. All my furniture is dark walnut and I don’t like the look of a dark fireplace mantel. I want to paint it taupe to match the walls. Can I do this? Will a general primer work?

–E-mail.


Dear Reader: Yes, you can paint over a lacquer finish, but you must prepare it properly. Lightly sand the mantel to dull the shiny surface and then apply high- adhesive primer and let this dry overnight. Then apply two coats of your favorite taupe. Protect the surface with a water-based varnish.


Dear Debbie: My kitchen is in desperate need of an update. It is early 80s gold and brown. I’d like to do the counters in a granite look finish to camouflage the pits in them, but I don’t want them to be too dark. I’m thinking of painting the cupboards a warm white, leaving a small wood trim at the top, and would like some green in the counter finish. Do you have any colour hints? How should I do the counter? Thank you for your time.

–Lana G., Calgary


Dear Lana: Painting a countertop is a great short term solution, but over time it will chip. Always use a cutting board, and wipe up water spills. Preparation for painting your counter will differ depending on the type of paint you use. If you can find melamine paint, which is available in good paint stores, then you do not need to prime. Otherwise, sand the counter lightly and apply a high adhesive primer that is meant for slippery surfaces — it will state this on the label. As for colour, start with a black base coat. (Don’t worry, only a bit of this will show by the end.) Pick three more colours, a brown, gray and green. Using a sea sponge, sponge the colours over the surface one at a time. Cover most of the black with the brown and gray and finish with random touches of green. Stand back and look at your progress. You can always add more paint. Leave the surface to dry overnight and then apply four layers of acrylic varnish.


Dear Debbie: I checked the FAQ section on your Web site to see if it was possible to paint kitchen appliances. You suggested spraying instead of brushing or rolling. What are the downfalls. What type of paint should I use? Any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

–Chris J., e-mail


Dear Chris : There is enamel spray paint, some that is clearly labeled as appliance paint, available for resurfacing your appliances. Spraying will give you the most uniform, smooth and professional finish. But you do need to take precautions when spray painting. Work in a well-ventilated area, outdoors on a calm day is best, and wear goggles and a mask. Protect anything that you don’t want painted as the paint becomes airborne.

Rollering will sometimes leave air bubbles. A paint brush is worse than a roller — unless you want the look of brushed steel, which is very popular right now, and not difficult to do. Have your paint store tint high adhesive primer a medium gray. After cleaning your surfaces, apply the tinted primer with a roller and let dry. Then make a silver metallic glaze with metallic paint and glazing liquid and apply this sparingly over the base coat with a hard bristle brush. You want to see fine brush lines. Make sure your brush strokes move in one direction. The tinted primer and glaze should be close in tone. Protect your work with varnish.

PHOTO


The Painted House column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Send letters to Ask Debbie, c/o The Painted House, PO Box 425, Station Westmount, Westmount, Que. H3Z 2T5, or e-mail Debbie at askdebbie@painted-house.com. We regret that only letters chosen for publication can be answered personally. Check Debbie’s Web site www.painted-house.com. and watch Debbie Travis’ Painted House aired daily on WTN. For more ideas look for Debbie’s newest book, Living and Dining Rooms.

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