Dumplings? Czech, and some soup ‘pho’ you

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 02/07/2008 (6643 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The June 18 column had a recipe for lemon sheet cake that called for E.D. Smith lemon pie filling. Apparently, this flavour is not available at all grocery stores. For readers who had trouble finding it, two stores where I have seen it are the Superstores on McPhillips Avenue and St. James Street.

Today’s column features recipes from two different cultures.

Leslie Reeves had written that one of her favourite things to eat is Vietnamese noodle soup. Thanks to Tony Faaborg, who sent in his recipe that follows. He writes: “I’ve have been a regular reader (and user!) of your column for some time now, and I’m thrilled to be able to make a contribution. Regarding Ms. Reeves’ request for a Vietnamese noodle soup with a clear broth, I believe she’s actually looking for “pho,” which has as many variations as there are cooks who make it. I have my own favourite version of the recipe, which I am happy to share here. In spite of the imposing ingredients listing and directions, this anise-scented beef pho is fairly easy to make, and it is absolutely delicious. By the way, “pho” is usually pronounced “phuh” (rhyming with “duh”).

Eleanor Smythe had written about delicious Czech dumplings she had eaten in Prague that were rolled in a cylinder shape, cooked and then sliced like bread. Thanks to Hildrun Anderson who sent in today’s recipe. She writes: “My mother-in-law was raised in Czechoslovakia and made the best dumplings. These dumplings are like sponges and absorb lots of gravy. They are traditionally served with goulash and red cabbage, or a salad.”

This week’s requests: Henrietta Wilde asks for a recipe for the cheese sticks that used to be sold at The Bagel House on Academy, and is also looking for a recipe for the grilled Mexican cinnamon bun that she used to buy at a cafe at The Forks.

Ainslie Schroeder is hoping someone has a recipe to duplicate the veggie burgers served at Stella’s.

Lastly, Caren Sych asks if anyone has a recipe for a light spinach salad dressing, much like Gunn’s used to serve at Portage Place, that is almost transparent, with a touch of sweetness.

If you can help with a recipe request, have your own request, or a favourite recipe you’d like to share, send an e-mail to recipeswap@freepress.mb.ca, fax it to 697-7412, or write to Recipe Swap, c/o Darlene Henderson, Winnipeg Free Press, 1355 Mountain Ave., Winnipeg, MB, R2X 3B6. Please include your first and last name, address and telephone number. Recipes may not appear right away due to limited space.

Anise-scented beef pho

2 medium white onions, peeled and quartered

2 pieces (2 1/2 inches each) fresh ginger, peeled and halved lengthwise

6 whole star anise

5 whole green cardamom pods

Half of a cinnamon stick

3 litres (12 cups) low-salt beef broth

1 litre (4 cups) water

900 g (2 lbs) flat-cut beef brisket

30 ml (2 tbsp) fish sauce (or more, to taste)

30 ml (2 tbsp) sugar

225 g (? lb) 1/4-inch wide dried rice noodles

6 green onions, chopped

6 large sprigs Thai basil (or small sprigs Italian basil)

2 jalapeno chiles, stemmed and cut thinly on the diagonal

283-340 g (10 to 12 oz) 1/2-inch thick top round steak, uncooked, sliced crosswise into very thin strips

Garnishes

750 ml (3 cups) bean sprouts

Hoisin sauce

Hot chile sauce

Lime wedges

Preheat oven to 350 F. Arrange onion quarters and ginger (rounded sides down) on baking sheet, and roast until onions soften, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and snip off any charred edges.

Bring broth, water and beef brisket to boil in a stock pot over high heat. Skim off any foam that rises to the top. Boil for about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast the star anise, cardamom and cinnamon stick over medium heat until aromatic and slightly darker, about 3 minutes. Pay close attention because it’s easy to go too far with this step, burning your spices.

Add onions, ginger and spices to boiling brisket; reduce heat and simmer, covered, until beef is tender — about 2 1/2 hours.

Uncover and let the soup cool, usually not more than 1 hour. This is so you can handle the meat that’s in the soup. Discard any obvious fat from the soup. Remove the brisket and transfer to a cutting board, cutting it in slices across the grain.

Remove the solids from the soup by straining it into a large bowl or another stock pot. Discard the solids. Return the soup to a boil and add the fish sauce and sugar; season with salt and pepper.

As the soup is coming to a boil, cook the rice noodles until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.

Prepare soup bowls for the number of people you will be serving. Divide the noodles into the bowls (there will be enough for 6 to eat this as a meal). Add portions of brisket, then green onions, basil, and jalapeno chiles to the bowls. Top with the raw, thinly sliced top round steak. Pour boiling soup into the bowls, which will poach the steak. Serve the bowls with the remaining garnishes. Serves 6 as a main dish meal, or more as a side dish. Can divide recipe as needed.

Taste Tester Notes: The flavours, textures and scents of this delicious soup delight the senses. If you like Asian food, this would be a fun dish to try with a group, letting people customize their bowls to their own taste with the different garnishes. You may be able to find many of the ingredients at your grocery store if they stock Asian products, but you may need to find others at a store that specializes in Asian goods. I found the whole star anise and fresh Thai basil at Young’s Market on McPhillips.

Czech dumplings

37 ml (2 1/2 tbsp) active dry yeast

5 ml (1 tsp) sugar

250 ml (1 cup) warm water

1250 ml (5 cups) flour

Salt to taste

1 egg

125 ml (1/2 cup) dry bread crumbs

Dissolve sugar in warm water. Mix in yeast and let stand until frothy. In large bowl mix flour, salt and bread crumbs. Add the yeast mixture and egg to dry ingredients and mix together. Knead until smooth. Make 2 “logs” of about equal size. Let rise in warm place until about double in bulk. In a very large pot, bring salted water to a boil. Place both logs in boiling water. When water returns to boiling, lower heat to simmer, cover and simmer for 1/2 an hour. Remove from water, place on board or platter and slice with thread, not a knife. Serves 5-6.

Taste Tester Notes: These are lovely, with a yeasty flavour and bread-like texture, and perfect for sopping up gravy. You do need a very large pot to cook these in, and they will puff up some more as they simmer. If you don’t have a large enough pot, adjust the size of the logs and cooking time accordingly. They will cut very easily with the thread (cut them while they are hot). Experiment to find a method that works best for you for cutting (for example, you can wrap the ends of a long piece of thread around each hand and pull tight, slip it under the bottom of the log, then pull up and cross thread over to make a slice). I used 5 ml (1 tsp) salt in the dough, and needed an extra 15 ml (1 tbsp) water for to make a smooth ball (dough will be a bit stiff). I used 15 ml (1 tbsp) salt in the boiling water, and turned the logs over halfway through. I also tried cooking smaller portions of this in an uncovered pot, about 10 minutes a side, which also yielded good results.