Many modern wallpapers are able to be stripped off without much difficulty

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 09/12/2001 (8818 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Q. We’re remodeling our home, and need to remove some wallpaper. What’s the best way to do it?

A. Many modern wallpapers can be stripped off without much difficulty. If you think you might have one of these “strippable” wallpapers, lift an upper corner of a panel with a knife or razor blade and try removing it with a downward, diagonal pulling motion.

If that doesn’t work, I recommend a chemical wallpaper remover such as DIF, which is sold at many home centres and wallpaper-supply stores. DIF, which is available in liquid and gel forms, contains enzymes that soften the wallpaper adhesive so the paper can be easily scraped off.

Good penetration of the chemical stripper is essential. Unless the wallpaper is an old, porous type, you will need to score the surface. This can be done with sandpaper, but a better way is to use an inexpensive scoring tool called a PaperTiger, which is sold at many wallpaper-supply stores. If properly used, the tool will not damage the underlying plasterboard or plaster.

Apply the chemical remover as directed (a sprayer, sponge, brush or roller can be used, depending on the product), and let it work for the specified time. Then use a sharp, wide-blade wallpaper scraper to peel off the paper. Adhesive residue can be removed by applying more chemical remover and scraping again. Rinse the walls with clear water applied with well-wrung-out rags.

Before painting or applying new wallpaper, let the walls dry thoroughly, and apply a suitable paint or wallpaper primer.

Q. Our house is built on a concrete slab, and we get some moisture through the floor in one room. We want to install new carpeting, and want to clear up the moisture problem first. Any ideas?

A. Water seepage through floors and walls is sometimes caused by poor drainage around the house. Defective rain gutters, which dump water close to the foundation instead of carrying it well away from the house, often contribute to the drainage problem. Ground that slopes toward the house rather than away from it can also contribute. Checking and correcting any drainage defects should help clear up the seepage problem.

Drylok, a special waterproofing paint made by UGL (1-800-272-3235, www.ugl.com), is sometimes used to stop minor seepage through concrete floors, but there are some important cautions: Only the latex version of Drylok should be used for this purpose. The product is designed for use on walls, so there is no warranty if it is used on a floor. And it should never be used on a floor for anything except minor seepage — never for a severe water problem. So consider the cautions before trying this, and keep in mind that there is no guarantee, either by the manufacturer or by me, that you will get good results.

–Knight Ridder Newspapers