Like Europe, but truly unique

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 10/06/2017 (3040 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

It is my second visit to Quebec City, and as the taxi takes me through the gates of the rampart walls that surround Old Quebec, I begin to relive memories of this truly unique place.

Later, as I wandered through the narrow cobblestone streets below the Château Frontenac, where I am staying, I understand why their marketing slogan is so apt.

“So Europe, so close.”

I spent a couple of weeks in France and other European countries last year, and so many of their historic cities could be interchanged with Old Quebec — you would hardly note the differences.

But Quebec City is decidedly different in other ways.

It is one of Canada’s oldest cities and is certainly the most French-speaking large community in the country. But fear not. With tourism such an important part of its economy, people are friendly and hospitality-industry employees seem to know their way around the English language pretty well.

While our history lessons tell us that, notwithstanding the reality of the longtime presence of our indigenous peoples, it was Jacques Cartier who “discovered Canada.” He, because of his navigational skills, would carry on exploring on behalf of the French Crown. But at the Musée de l’Amérique francophone, we learn about Jean-François de la Rocque, who King Francis I charged with establishing a large colonial project.

This museum of culture is loaded with artifacts from archeological digs in the area, as well as the accounts from the major explorers of the day. Its chapel builds upon the European connection, with architecture that is Second Empire in style and described as reminiscent of the Trinité Church in Paris.

It is a stunningly beautiful place, which is now used as an entertainment centre, hosting dozens of concerts and lectures annually.

During this visit, I would dine in a number of different restaurants and, as with my last visit, came away with the sense of how much of a culinary capital this city is. And while this may be a primarily French city, the restaurants cover the spectrum of ethnic and traditional Canadian tastes, as well.

The walk down into the lower section of the old city can be steep for those with health problems. Problem solved. For $3 each way, you can take the Funicular up and down as often as you like, since it operates from early morning to late evening.

Walking around the old city is a treat. It is really where their slogan fits best. Historic buildings, now housing fine shops and restaurants, motivate most visitors to go back more than once to experience the aura of being someplace that is so far removed from home, in both style and substance.

It is no wonder that it is listed as a major historic site by UNESCO. The Citadelle is also a National Historic Site. This year, entry to it is free, as it is to all of Canada’s National Parks.

While the Château Frontenac is an excellent place to stay, few people miss the opportunity to take photos of this iconic old railway property, even if they are being housed elsewhere. It imposes itself on the both the city and the river it overlooks.

A long, wide boardwalk runs along its escarpment, where hundreds of tourists and locals alike gather to rest or take in the view of the St. Lawrence River below.

Quebec City has become a major cruise ship stop and, as has been mentioned in this column in the past, is one of the most highly rated cruise port visits in the world.

Now a Fairmont-branded property, as majestic as the Château Frontenac Hotel is, I took an evening cruise on one of the tour boats that offer visitors a chance to go up and down river to get a better view of the city and the sites on the opposite side of the river.

The view from below while moving along the waters of the St. Lawrence as the sun was setting was very dramatic, especially looking back up to the castle-like Château Frontenac.

While it is easy to spend a number of days in Quebec City without being bored, it is worthwhile renting a car, or taking one of the available tours, to go to nearby Île d’Orléans.

This short circle-like drive was as though you were visiting Quebec as it was in the 18th century. Still largely a farming district, today, artisan shops thrive on the support of visiting tourists. Fresh produce makes the trip even more interesting.

On my last visit, I stopped at the old church on the island, where the graveyard told many stories of its past, with many of the last names of those who had built this nation inscribed on the tombstones.

Whether you do it on your outbound or return journey, make sure you stop at Parc de la Chute-Montmorency. The waterfalls are 30 metres higher than Niagara Falls and you can experience its power via gondola, a steep but scenic stairway, or by suspension bridge, if you are up to it.

If you can handle that, the double zip line ride should be no problem for you.

While I stayed at Château Frontenac for most of my visit, I spent one night at Le Bonne Entente hotel. Located in the suburb of Sainte-Foy, it is not only a beautiful property, but has exclusive access to La Tempête Golf Club, home of the 2009 Skins Game and a 2014 PGA Champions Tour event.

Billed as the only international-calibre golf course in the Quebec City area, you have to be a member of the club or a guest to play on it.

While both of these properties are excellent, the Sainte-Foy area, as well as many others, offer the complete choice of brand-name hotels, with budget options to suit most visitors.

Both WestJet and Air Canada have convenient connections through both Toronto and Montreal.

If you cannot visit Quebec City during Canada 150, add it to your “must see” list.

Read Ron’s blog at thattravelguy.ca. Listen to Ron’s latest podcasts via his website, or on demand on iTunes.

pradinukr@shaw.ca