These are the best—and not at all irritating—retinol serums

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This article was published 04/05/2022 (1607 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Introducing The Kit’s new editor-tested shopping awards, the Shop Smart Guide. The idea is simple: Every month, The Kit editors exhaustively test-drive items in desert-island categories—not the season’s exciting yet ephemeral trends but the evergreen essentials you’re most likely to buy now and wear or use forever. We’re talking mascara, jeans, retinol serum, black turtlenecks, white sneakers, etc. Our hope is that Shop Smart helps you reach that mythic shopping ideal: to buy less but better. First up, our guide to buying retinol serums.

Dermatologists agree to a boringly consistent degree on one thing: Retinol is the one active ingredient pretty much everyone can benefit from to keep skin looking fresh, smooth, plump and clear as we age. Most derms would be happy if we all we did was wash with Cetaphil, moisturize with something basic, never go a day without SPF—and use a retinoid at night.

You noticed that switch from retinol to retinoid? Well, retinol is one of many types of retinoid, part of a family of vitamin A derivatives that help to encourage skin cell turnover for increased smoothness and firmness. While most derms will suggest using a prescription retinoid such as tretinoin (a.k.a., Retin-A), somewhat less potent retinol is available over the counter in an ever-growing range of strengths and delivery systems, and seasoned with emollients and antioxidants for a multi-pronged approach to skin rejuvenation.

I had already been using a retinol product for a few months when I started this test drive, which may be part of the reason why I experienced no irritation with any of the winning products below (some did make me red and flaky; those did not make the cut). If you’re a newbie, follow the golden rules: Start slow (twice a week, ramping up to every second day and eventually daily), “sandwich” with moisturizer (apply cream under and over your retinol to buffer it, for a few weeks) and take a break the second you see any redness or peeling. Beauty is not pain! Plus, don’t skimp on sunscreen, as retinol makes skin more sensitive to UV rays.

When I told a beauty-PR friend I was embarking on this quest, she said, “Ooh, you’ll have the skin of a baby by the end.” And while not quite true, I can definitely say that my complexion is looking brighter, softer, clearer and more even, with faded hyperpigmentation and fewer breakouts or blackheads. Retinol forever! But only formulas that cause no irritation. Read on for the ones that I loved.

RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules, $44, shoppersdrugmart.ca SHOP HERE

Winner: RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules

The cost: $44 for 10.5 mL

The claim: “In 4 weeks 100% had visibly firmer skin, and 100% continued to show a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles.”

The review: These little capsules work hard for the money. (And it is worth mentioning that this, the big winner, has one of the lowest ticket prices of all the retinols I’ve included—although you’d need to restock it more frequently.) The capsules are vegetal-based and biodegradable, and keep each dose fresh. You rip off the top and a clear serum squeezes out that has no detectable scent and a slightly emollient feel between your fingers as you smooth it in—each one contains a generous amount for the whole face and neck, even upper chest. I added moisturizer over top and went to bed, and woke up in the morning with zero irritation and a kind of calm, clear glow. In fact, as I cleansed my face in the shower I could feel tiny congested comedones fall out of my forehead as I ran water over my skin in the morning (is this enough information for you?!). Things only got smoother as time went on. The brand chooses not to share the percentage of retinol included (this is fairly common proprietary and marketing thing), but it’s there in a “high concentration,” and it also has ceramides, which help repair the skin barrier, and soybean oil, which is hardly a high-end ingredient but definitely helps smooth the way. When I switched up for another retinol I tested, that didn’t make the cut, I felt roughness returning. Needless to say, I’ve started counting the number of capsules left to make sure I don’t run out.

Dr. Lara Devgan Retinol + Bakuchiol Serum 2.5x, $420, ssense.com SHOP HERE

Best for a luxe experience: Dr. Lara Devgan Retinol + Bakuchiol Serum 2.5x

The cost: $420 for 30 mL

The claims: “Clinically proven to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pore size, and blemishes.”

The review: This serum is extremely luxe, even more than you would expect from the skincare line of the highly regarded Manhattan plastic surgeon Dr. Lara Devgan, whose extremely subtle work gets you thinking about the merits of tear trough augmentation or a liquid nose job. In its heavy dark glass bottle, this golden serum has the very faintest hint of a tropical cocktail scent (though it’s fragrance-free) and feels a bit like an expensive face oil when you apply it. But it’s not greasy at all and sinks in beautifully. Not a hint of irritation. My skin looked great the next day, even better the next—redness was minimized, a certain freshness continued to compound, and it also helped a couple breakouts heal fast. I swear a dark spot has lightened as well. The serum comes in three strengths (2.5x, which I tried, 5x for veteran retinol users and 10x for an intensive treatment) and combines retinol with plant-based bakuchiol, which is interesting as that antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient is often touted as a more natural alternative to retinol. There is sticker shock with this product, to be sure, but I’m in love.

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair 0.5% Retinol Pro+ Serum, $40, walmart.ca SHOP HERE

Best affordable powerhouse: Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair 0.5% Retinol Pro+ Serum

The cost: $40 for 30 mL

The claim: “Improves the look of wrinkles and dark spots while giving you firmer looking skin in just two weeks.”

The review: Neutrogena is a longtime solid drugstore option for retinol skincare, and this serum is no exception. With 0.5 per cent pure retinol it doesn’t skimp on its hero ingredient. A clear serum that absorbs easily and leaves a slight sheen on the skin, it contains emollients including tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and bisabolol (a component of soothing camomile), which is perhaps why it caused no irritation; in fact it left my skin looking brighter and calmer after each use. It does contain “parfum” and has a fruity fragrance that reminded me of drugstore shampoo.

Dr. Dennis Gross Texture Renewal Serum, $95, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

Best for the breakout-prone: Dr. Dennis Gross Texture Renewal Serum

The cost: $95 for 30 mL

The claim: “In a 4-week clinical study conducted on 40 subjects with Fitzpatrick Skin Types I–VI, 100% saw smoother and less oily skin with no irritation in just 1 week.”

The review: If bumps and breakouts are your bugbear along with lines and wrinkles, this one-stop smoothing serum is a hard-working option. Along with (an unspecified percentage of) two types of retinol designed to release into the skin at two different speeds, it contains a laundry list of coveted ingredients: anti-inflammatory bakuchiol, exfoliators including mandelic, salicylic and lactic acid, ferulic acid, as well as a host of antioxidants and other plant ingredients such as rambutan. It’s a slippery, easy to massage in liquid that has a fairly strong smell—not perfume-y; it reminds me of that familiar SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic smell. Despite the long list of active ingredients, I experienced no irritation (perhaps because it also has hydrating squalane and emollient hyaluronic acid) and unlike most retinol products, the instructions suggest to use it in the daytime, with the caveat that SPF use is important.

L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power LZR 0.3% Pure Retinol Night Serum, $34, walmart.ca SHOP HERE

Best value: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power LZR 0.3% Pure Retinol Night Serum

The cost: $34 for 30 mL

The claim: “In 2 weeks: Deep wrinkles start to look less visible.”

The review: It’s the best value option on this list, and it’s the retinol (0.3 per cent of pure retinol, to be precise) that started it all for me: After dismissing the ingredient as too harsh after a number of red, peeling false starts with prescription and high-end products over the years, I gave this a try last fall and was pleasantly surprised by how well I tolerated it and how fresh and firm it made my skin feel over time (after a month or so of use, an acquaintance asked if I’d had Botox; I hadn’t). It’s a milky white serum that’s a little thicker than the others here, and it feels more substantial on the skin. The smell is a little chemical-y, but I appreciate that it doesn’t smell like fragrance. And after a few months of use the formula gets a bit gloopy and clings to the lip of the bottle. But for the value, those gripes are easy to overlook.

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair, $126, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

Best bonus inclusion: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair

The cost: $126

The claim: “…reduces the appearance of skin aging overnight.”

The review: You really do want to use a good, buffering moisturizer when you’re using retinol, and Dermalogica thoughtfully includes one with its Overnight Retinol Repair, along with detailed instructions on how to ease your way into the retinol life. Inside the tube is a custard-coloured cream that instantly dissolves into a glossy liquid as you rub it into the skin; then the shine disappears and you’re left with the feeling of almost nothing, which is nice for those who prefer a no-product feeling when they hit the pillow. The formula has a potent 0.5 per cent retinol (microencapsulated, for enhanced penetration) but I experienced no irritation, only a gradually increasing brightness and bounciness in my face. It’s boosted with firming peptides and copper amino acids, and antioxidant vitamin C, while squalane, ceramides and active polysaccharides bring the moisture. Plus, it has a very faint powdery smell, like baby powder, that I found I looked forward to experiencing.

Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3, $82, skinceuticals.ca SHOP HERE

Best for beginners: Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3

The cost: $82 for 30 mL, skinceuticals.ca

The claim: “Ideal for skin new to retinol use.”

The review: This one comes in a slightly medical-feeling metal tube, which makes sense given that this brand is routinely found for sale in dermatologists’ offices. It’s a translucent creamy formula that spreads across the skin dewily in seconds and sinks in fully in about a minute, with no scent to speak of. With 0.3 per cent pure retinol, formulated for a steady release into the skin, it’s pitched as the beginner formula: Skinceuticals also offers 0.5 and 1 per cent versions, so you can start here and work your way up. It also contains a soothing combo of bisabolol (from chamomile) and boswellia serrata extract (from frankincense). It’s very comfortable to use and my skin barely noticed it was on there, much less experienced any irritation. The docs are onto something.

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Rani Sheen is executive editor of The Kit. She writes about beauty and culture. Reach her on email: rs@thekit.ca or follow her on Twitter: @ranisheen