Ukrainian Immersion ROAD TRIP

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 25/06/2022 (1204 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

I step softly on the gravel path that leads to the church doors. I want to be quiet. Overhead, century-old spruces reach skyward from the north and south sides, meeting in the middle, like clasped hands forming a protective canopy. My runners brush against a wild rose bush in full bloom, its scent like cool water reaches my nose, drawing my eyes downward to the popping pink petals that flip and twist on this hot and windy June morning.

Then another scent makes me lift my eyes to St. Michael’s Ukrainian Catholic Church, here in the hamlet of Olha. It is the smell of incense smoldering on charcoal. In my mind’s eye I see the robed priest, swinging the small metal vessel dangling from delicate chains as it puffs out its sweet-smelling smoke—a memory from childhood.

And soon I hear the high thin voices of the congregation from inside the church, echoing the hymn led by their priest. They are familiar hymns, sung in Ukrainian. Today there is a service happening here in at this rural church, a chance encounter on a random day, far from the church of my childhood yet familiar in every other way.

St. Michael’s Ukrainian Catholic Church in Olha is one of the stops on The Babushka Trail, a collection of Ukrainian heritage sights loosely scattered from Russell to Dauphin. Put together by Parkland Tourism, there’s no better time to do a deep dive in Manitoba’s history of Ukrainian immigration than right now. The points of interest tell the story of some of the first Ukrainians to arrive in Manitoba, forced from their homeland by political unrest and economic hardship. For the sum of $10, immigrants were granted 160 acres in a location designated by the government. The Parkland region, including areas around Dauphin, Rossburn and Sandy Lake, was one of them.

A few gravel kilometres southeast of Olha, down a well-treed trail, is the Swistun Buddas, a replica of the dwellings used by some of the first pioneers. Constructed by Michael Swistun in 1978, there were oiginally two structures, made of tree trunks, branches, sod and native hay. One has recently been destroyed by fire. There’s also a monument at the site chronicling the history of the area. Incidentally, Swistun was billed as The Strongest Man in the World when he toured with the Ringling Brothers Barnum & Bailey Circus during the summer of 1923.

In the spring of 1899, a group of settlers were camped at Patterson Lake, near Olha, when tragedy struck. Already plagued by scarlet fever, a May snowstorm made for unimaginable living conditions. Before the end of the month, 42 children and three adults had succumbed to the epidemic. They were buried here, at what has become known as the Ukrainian Pioneer Mass Grave Site. With several monuments on the grassy rise above the lake, the site also commemorates both the 50th and 100th anniversaries of Ukrainian settlement in Canada.

The community of Sandy Lake is home to the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Museum that houses displays of traditional arts and crafts, pysanky, wood carvings and beautifully embroidered clothing. The town is also home to Holy Ghost Ukrainian Catholic Church, St. Michael’s Ukrainian Orthodox Church and Ruthenia Greek Catholic Church of the Ascension — each with its own architectural highlight. The belfry at Holy Ghost is particularly noteworthy with a trumpeting angel positioned on each corner.

Near Dauphin, the Selo Ukraina Ukrainian Heritage Village and Memorial Park plays host to the annual Canada’s National Ukrainian Festival when the pioneer village is in full swing with costumed interpreters making perogies, musicians playing traditional tunes and the wood fired outdoor ovens pumping out freshly-baked bread and buns.

North of Dauphin is Trembowla Cross of Freedom Historic Site where the first Ukrainian Catholic mass was held in Canada in 1897. The site includes a Canada’s oldest Ukrainian Catholic church, pioneer home and a school stocked with artifacts from early Ukrainian settlers. The site was recently vandalized, sadly, with most of the historic plaques and the church bell being stolen. Watch for special events where bread is baked in the outdoor oven on site.

No road trip would be complete without great eats. Head to Corrina’s on Main in Dauphin for Perogy Palooza—and bring your appetite. The plate includes a dozen perogies with fried onions, kolbasa, sauerkraut and sour cream. Do your best to leave room from one of their legendary butter tarts.

GETTING THERE: Head to parklandtourism.com and click on the Brochures tab to download the complete itinerary, with many more worthwhile stops, for The Babushka Trail. Many sites are staffed throughout the summer but others require appointments. Contact numbers are provided. Because of our wet spring, some roads and trails may be in poor condition. Additionally, cell service is not available at all locations.

shel@shelzolkewich.com