There’s no taste like home Classic cookbook foundation of new Mennonite restaurant

Josh Penner isn’t a religious man, but he does follow the guidance of a revered tome.

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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 09/01/2024 (978 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Josh Penner isn’t a religious man, but he does follow the guidance of a revered tome.

The Mennonite Treasury of Recipes, a coil-bound community cookbook, has been a primary source of inspiration while developing recipes for his new Portage Avenue takeout and catering company, Faspa.

Penner, 41, is a Red Seal chef with decades of experience running local and international chain kitchens.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                Josh Penner, the chef and owner of Faspa Catering & Food Market, with a plate of vareniki and farmer sausage at the new Mennonite takeout and catering business

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

Josh Penner, the chef and owner of Faspa Catering & Food Market, with a plate of vareniki and farmer sausage at the new Mennonite takeout and catering business

When faced with the choice to continue climbing the corporate ladder or branch out on his own, he opted for the latter.

“As a chef, you go on a journey and get to a spot where you (have to figure out) what excites you and what’s your reason for cooking,” he says. “I really wanted to get remotivated and get more inspiration, so that’s where I started digging around my Mennonite heritage.”

Penner is Mennonite but had never cooked the kinds of cultural foods he grew up eating. The Mennonite Treasury offered a trove of ideas and a traditional starting point for his own creations.

Tasting Notes

Faspa, 1316 Portage Ave.

Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Visit faspawpg.ca for more information

The vareniki and farmer sausage plate ($16) at Faspa is emblematic of the restaurant’s tagline: “A contemporary take on traditional Mennonite slow food.”

Faspa, 1316 Portage Ave.

Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Visit faspawpg.ca for more information

The vareniki and farmer sausage plate ($16) at Faspa is emblematic of the restaurant’s tagline: “A contemporary take on traditional Mennonite slow food.”

All of the elements are made from scratch, from the salty garlic sausage links to the cottage-cheese filling inside the dense perogy-style dumplings. The dish is served with a healthy spoonful of schmaunt fat — a cream-based gravy similar to béchamel sauce — a tart rhubarb chutney and a fresh tomato ketchup. Sprigs of tart, citrusy garden sorrel serve as a garnish and cut through the richness of the rest of the plate. It’s unpretentious comfort food made with cheffy sensibility.

The menu also includes soups, sandwiches, sweets and Faspa Boards ($12 or $20) — a Mennonite take on charcuterie, according to chef Josh Penner — which feature a selection of house-made cured meats, crackers, pickles and preserves. Catering is available for small and large gatherings.

Tasting Notes is an ongoing series about Winnipeg restaurants, new and old, meant to offer diners a taste of what’s on the menu.

“When you move out of your parents’ house, as a Mennonite boy, you get this book,” he says while leafing through the worn cookbook, which he keeps in a small restaurant library next to books on Mennonite history and a Low German dictionary.

“Almost everything (on the menu) is derived somewhat from an old Oma’s recipe.”

Penner is the sole employee of Faspa’s simple kitchen, with occasional front-of-house support from his partner. The small eatery is situated in a former florist shop on the northern edge of Wolseley. There’s a warm wood takeout counter, an espresso machine, a single chair for customer use and a framed print of the couple’s black cat, Thomas, to make the space feel like home.

Initially, the plan was to operate as a ghost kitchen and focus solely on catering. Starting small felt more sustainable, but the space’s large front window and location at a busy intersection seemed ideal for a storefront.

“We’ve been super happy because we just unlocked the doors and people have been walking in,” Penner says of the reception since opening in December.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                Penner sprinkles sorrell over the vareniki and farmer sausage plate.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

Penner sprinkles sorrell over the vareniki and farmer sausage plate.

The restaurant’s name, Faspa, refers to the communal, late-afternoon meals he enjoyed on Sundays at his grandparents’ house in Steinbach.

“Faspa is about fellowship and hanging out and gossiping. You don’t always know who’s coming by so you put out some bread and jam, pickles, meats and cheeses. I think every Menno that drives by would know exactly what (Faspa) is and I think there’s enough intrigue for people that aren’t Mennonite to want to know what it is,” he says.

More than the vareniki (dumplings) and kielke (egg noodles) served at family gatherings, Penner’s formative food memories trace back to his grandparents’ garden.

“They grew their own food to save money because that’s just what they had always done. That really resonated with me to work for your food,” he says.

Last summer, in preparation for opening Faspa, he spent multiple days a week in Steinbach reviving the large veggie patch in his grandma’s backyard. The cucumbers, rhubarb and sorrel he harvested have been turned into pickles, jams and garnishes used in the restaurant’s menu items and retail products.

He hopes to grow and preserve even more produce this year.

“Mennonite food is slow food, it’s farm-to-table, it’s grow what you grow and then preserve what you can. It’s cooking for sustenance rather than gluttony,” he says.

“Mennonite food is slow food, it’s farm-to-table, it’s grow what you grow and then preserve what you can. It’s cooking for sustenance rather than gluttony.”–Josh Penner

As a chef, Penner’s goal is to serve quality comfort food that offers an introduction to Mennonite cooking — a cuisine that has been largely absent from Winnipeg’s restaurant scene despite Manitoba’s large Mennonite population.

“I don’t think Mennonite food gets enough props. It doesn’t have to be boiled pork bone and potatoes, which is maybe what a lot of people think it is,” he says.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                Faspa Catering & Food Market specializes in traditional Mennonite cuisine.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

Faspa Catering & Food Market specializes in traditional Mennonite cuisine.

Opening Faspa has been an opportunity to learn more about his own background while giving customers a chance to do the same.

“There’s a whole bunch of us millennial Mennonites out here that are one generation removed from Low German being spoken in the house,” Penner says.

“We remember all this stuff, but we haven’t connected with it in a long time and that’s important to me as well.”

eva.wasney@winnipegfreepress.com

Twitter: @evawasney

New neighbours on Sherbrook

Good Neighbour Brewing has partnered with the team behind Hoagie Boyz and Kosmo’s Food Cantina to offer a new dining concept at 116 Sherbrook St. The restaurant, previously dubbed One Sixteen, has been renamed Next Door. Fine dining has been replaced with whimsical lunch and dinner fare, including a crispy mushroom sando, waffle fries, tuna nachos and “pastrami’d” short ribs. Next Door opens Friday; visit nextdoorwpg.com for more info.

RAW:almond struggling with thin ice

If conditions on the waterways near The Forks don’t improve, RAW:almond could be looking for a new home this winter. The wildly popular pop-up dining event takes place annually on the frozen river. The temporary eatery, designed by event co-founder Joe Kalturnyk and spearheaded in the kitchen by Deer + Almond chef Mandel Hitzer, has been staged on the historic rail bridge during one previous problematic year, but the bridge is currently closed. The event — which features much-lauded local, national and international chefs — has immediately sold out in years past, but some tickets for this year’s dinners still remain; perhaps the post-holiday cash crunch, inflation and the $292.50-per-person price tag have been factors. If you’re keen on going, you can still grab tickets at raw-almond.com.

Fried Chicken Fest flaps ahead

Apologies if your New Year’s resolutions included avoiding decadent, deep-fried delicacies. Fried Chicken Fest kicks off next Wednesday and runs until Jan. 27 for 10 days of poultry-based gluttony. Now in its sixth year, the annual Winnipeg food festival challenges dozens of local restaurants to put their best wing (or drumstick or breast) forward for a chance to rule the culinary roost. Winners are determined by diner and judge voting, with Meal Set Bistro and the Merchant Kitchen currently holding the respective titles. Participating restaurants will be listed at friedchickenfest.ca.

Eva Wasney

Eva Wasney
Reporter

Eva Wasney covers environmental issues in Manitoba for The Narwhal in partnership with the Winnipeg Free Press. Read more about Eva.

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